Question about Motorcycles
Manual says back out clutch adjusting screw 1/2 to 1 full turn. When I do this and then set the handle adjuster as per specs the clutch just slips. Won't engage. If I back out adjuster screw 3 turns it seems to work but not perfect. Do I need a new clutch? Only 29k on bike
Loosen clutch cable all the way (so you don't get a false setting).
Loosen clutch push rod adjuster (in center of pressure plate).
Turn adjuster in until it JUST touches.
Back off 1/2 to 1 turn and tighten locknut.
Be careful when tightening locknut that the adjuster doesn't turn also, decreasing play.
Readjust clutch cable, leaving 1/16" to 1/8" slack.
Posted on Oct 11, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Get the bike standing as straight up as you can without danger of it falling over. This keeps any oil from running out of the primary. Remove the "derby cover" from the outer primary cover giving you access to the clutch adjuster screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate in the primary.
On the clutch cable, slide the rubber boot up or down to expose the adjuster in the cable. It should be on the down tubes of the frame under the fuel tanks. Loosen the lock nut and screw the cable adjuster in as far as it will go thus shortening the cable.
At the clutch back in the primary cover, you'll see a screw that takes a hex allen wrench with a lock nut on it in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and back it off a bit. Screw the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. You want to adjust this in until you feel a resistance, not to the point to where it starts releasing the clutch. Back the screw back out and do this enough times so that you know you are just going to the point of resistance. Turn the screw inward until you get to the point of resistance and then back the screw out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the nut down.
Now, adjust the clutch cable adjuster out making the cable longer You want to adjust the cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the cable lock nut and slide the rubber cover over the adjuster. Test ride the bike. If the clutch does not engage exactly where you want it, use the cable adjuster to fine tune where the clutch engages by lengthing or shortening the cable.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
The fork oil is a very specific job needing a manual and a special tool, I don't want to insult anyones mechanical knowledge but if you have never done it before, best to take somewhere else. Engine oil on the other hand is easy, the drain tube to any softail is on the right side by where the frame meets the swing arm, has somekind of plug in it. Start and run bike for a little while, long enough to get it warm but not hot. Remove fill plug and then remove plug in drain line. Using a peice of cardboard or something put in between filter and frame , directing the oil to your drain pan instead of where ever it goes. Put 1 qt oil back in (after everything is reinstalled) start the bike and make sure the oil light goes out, when it does shut bike off and fill to the point that when it is standing upright you get a little oil on the tip of your finger, over filling may result in loss of oil cap from pressure (been there)
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
SOURCE: adjust clutch cable
If you have a stock cable you need a 9/16 and a 1/2 in. wrench. about 1/2 way downn the cable there is a rubber boot. pull the rubber boot over the adjustment. Loosen the liock nut and adjust the cable so you have aprox 1/8 to 1/16 in. slack in the handle. Re tighten the lock nut and pull the rubber back over the adjustment.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
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