Question about 2003 Honda VTX
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a supermagna and used fuel stablizer once and it wasnt fit it gummed my carbs up,ive cleaned mine often and it isnt rocket science,remove the tank airbox assembly,loosen up the boot flanges that hook the carbs to the motor(ones on carb)then remove the carbs,then the cables,choke and throttle,do not remove carbs from assembly(leave all 4 together)remove the bottoms and tops of a carb,removefloat and jet,then remove all the brass jets and clean them so you can see through holes,,blow out all the holes in carbs,and reasemble,works for me every time,about two hours to do,good luck
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
When I recently ordered parts from Saber Cycle, they included a piece of information that pertained to my motorcycle, which is also a 1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100 Interstate. Here is what it says, I hope this helps:
Air Cut-Off Valve
The air cut-off valve is an extremely important part of the fuel/air intake system that is frequently missed even my competent mechanics, most of whom are not even aware of its existence or how it functions.
Every GL1000 has one, located in the air intake tube, between the air cleaner box and the manifold. Every GL1100 has four, located in the top air intake passage of each carburetor, and every GL1200 has one located in the plenum box below the air cleaner box similar to the GL1000.
These valves are "air blockers", along with the carburetor o-rings, serving to restrict air flow and increase the fuel/air mixture ratio when the carb slides are in the lower RPM range, up to closed so that the machine will start and idle smoothly with virtually no choking and accelerate rapidly, with no stumble or hesitation.
When typical starting requires heavy and prolonged choking to keep the bike running, when stalling and hesitation occurs even while "warmed up" and when backfiring pops while the throttle is shut off while cruising, most people will start fooling with the air screws to try to overcome the problem, only making it worse along with reducing their gas mileage.
Running with dysfunctional air cut-off valves can causes severe engine damage or failure. When the valves are dysfunctional, the engine pulls nearly total air in the low RPM range through the carbs and on to the combustion chamber. The fuel/air ratio is extremely poor with pre-ignition long before the normal 38 to 40 degree firing point, generating an enormous amount of heat, with no power, which is trapped a longer period of time in the cylinder before the exhaust valve opens.
This heat goes mostly up through the cylinder head, gradually incinerating the head gaskets and allowing engine coolant (anti-freeze) to seep into the engine. You can easily spot when you are in trouble by a puff of bluish-white or white smoke on first starting the engine. Don't leave it alone. Change head gaskets immediately or you could take out your bottom end bearings, ruining the engine.
For those of you installing new exhaust systems, you will discolor your headpipes, either blue (lean state) or gold (rich state). You can destain your pipes using "blueaway" or "blue-off" but be careful not to rub the chrome, just dab gently.k These compounds are usually purchased at a Harley dealer or Harley oriented aftermarket shop.
Honda genuine pipes, like many Yamaha pipes, have a double wall for a portion of the headpipe which masks this discoloration-but also masks a bad state of tune. Even if your pipes are original and still in good shape, don't think that you are OK if the bike has any or all of the dysfunctional air cut-off valve running and performance characteristics.
If your 1975 to 1987 Gold Wing is not getting 50-58 miles per gallon (20-23 KM/Liter), you have one of the most obvious signs of trouble. It is likely your air screws have been backed out to try overcome the effects of the poor running, stumbling, starting and stalling and quitting.
Resynchronize all four carbs to the #3 carb vacuum level using mercury carb sticks or vacuum dial gauges. Stay with strict use of the setting levels in either the Honda, Clymer or Haynes manuals. Do not attempt to tune any other way! Guessing will not work and can cause considerable engine damage!!!
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 HONDA SHADOW ACE 750 CARB
It sounds like you may have or will be jetting your carbs. I did this using the directions with the kit and used the Clyman manual for this bike to show me step by step how to remove the carborator. You will only need to attach 2 of the 4 hoses on your carb. syncronizer. If I remember right, you need to remove the bolt-on cooling fins to expose the engine block. The is a black screw or bolt that you take out and screw the threaded metal adapter of the sync tool. Be careful using the sync tool. Be very light on the throttle or the vacuum in the cylinder will **** in the mercury from the sync tool - not good. The problem you are stating on idle & backing off sometimes happens when the carbs are running rich (too much fuel) Hope that gets you in the right direction.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
Stock size for the slow jet is 35. Some guys put in 38's to make them less prone to getting plugged. I would say that you still have gunk in the slow jets. Also turn the pilot screws out 2 1/4turns. If the exhaust pops and you have no exhaust or vacuum leaks turn the pilot screws in 1/4 turn at a time till it goes away.
Did you change the plugs and the air filter? How about checking and or replacing the vacuum lines?
You might try a full bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in a tank of gas. It may clear the problem up.
I had to clean the jets on my 1999 I/S twice and it's not a fun job.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 14, 2009
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