I noticed that the drive chain on my 2003 cb250 nighthawk was slacked, so I went to tighten it up. However, I could not even perform the first step, as the axle nut is not spinning off. I have tried W-D 40 and lots of force, but to no avail. All I have managed to do is strip part of the nut's head. Am I missing something?
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Re: UNCOOPERATIVE AXLE NUT
If I recall correctly there is no split pin locking the nut in place. Look at the faces of the nut. Any drill hole filled with a pin? Grab a propane torch and heat the nut/bolt. Try not to burn the paint. Tap the nut faces with a small hammer to assist in breaking the nut free from the rust holding the nut in place.
Use a hex socket or hex box end wrench. If you have an impact driver, use it with the hex socket. If you don't have an impact driver I strongly suggest you get one. They are low cost and the most used tool in my shop. I sleep with mine close at hand. If that nut is going to break free the impact driver is what will do it.
Please rate this solution after the impact driver has removed the nut. Thanks for the top rating! :)
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The first step is to find the tightest part of the chain. Unless it's a brand new chain it will have a tight spot somewhere on it. It's easiest to do this with the bike on a race stand if you have it. Rotate the wheel and observe the lower part of the chain and watch it lift up when you hit tight spots. The spot where the chain lifts highest is the tightest part of the chain. Once you have found this spot, grab the chain on the low side under the swingarm and move it up and down. It should move up and down around 30-35mm or so, or an inch and a bit if you're an imperialist :) If the chain moves more or less than this then it needs to be adjusted.
To adjust the chain, you need to loosen the axle first. Don't take the nut off but it has to be loose enough to undo by hand. Using 2 spanners, unlock the lock nuts on the end of the swingarm and wind the nut in or out until you get the correct amount of chain slack. always do the sprocket side (left side) first, then repeat the same on the other side. Check the chain adjuster marks to make sure that the adjusters are equal on both sides, this will make sure your rear wheel is aligned properly.
Once you have adjusted the chain, tighten the rear axle and check again. The chain slack will change slightly after you tighten the axle, it might go tighter, it might go looser. Depends on the bike. But the chain slack must be correct with the axle tightened. A bit of practise here and you will be able to guess the correct amount before tightening the rear axle.
Once you have the slack set correctly and the axle is tight, make sure to tighten the adjusters. Tighten the front nut first against the swingarm plate so it can't move. Do it tight but not crazy tight. Then holding the first nut so it can't move tighten the locknut against the first nut. Repeat this on both sides.
If you are not quite sure if the chain is right, always err on the side of making it too loose rather than too tight. Running your chain too tight can destroy your output shaft bearing. It's only about $30 or so for a new one but your engine needs to be completely stripped down to replace it, it's not a fun job. I have seen a lot of FZs and FZRs have this problem because people ran chains too tight. If your chain really is too loose then it will start making your gear changes harder to do, that's the sign you need to tighten it.
Thanks for contacting FixYa. I was just reviewing some of the old unsolved problems and wanted to make sure your question gets resolved.
Chain can be correctly tightened by loosening the axle nut so the axle floats. Then tighten the chain tensioning nuts on either side evenly so they tighten the chain. When the chain is properly tensioned you will have 3/8th - 1/2" of slack between the chain and the swing arm. Then re-torque the axle nuts and lubercate the chain. Should be ready to go.
loosen rear axle bolt and nut, tighten chain tensioner at rear axle,use the nut on the tension bolt to lock it down to the same calibrated distance(about 3/4 inch chain slack movement up and down not a total of 1 1/2) when the axle alignment is the same on left and right tighten the axle nut and bolt,lube the chain. Make sure you adjust the rear brake tension to make up for the wheel being moved toward the rear.
well first get the bike up on a stand or set it on a milk crate. Loosen up main axle nuts you may need another wrench on the other side to back it up. loosen any small chain adjustment nuts. pull the chain as far back as it can go all the time looking a the chain sag..you want to keep about 5/8 to 1 inch play...lock just the axle nuts down snug...now spin the tire to see that all parts of the chain maintain this amount of sag. if its too tight in one area, you have a "stretched chain", and this will now be the focal point for tightening up the chain...this tighter part must have "some" slack in it...id say give it about 1/2 inch...now tighten up the chain adjustment nuts finger tight and look at your rear sprocket and make sure it lines up perfectly straight on with the counter shaft sprocket up front. Once this is aligned, tighten the smaller nuts snug, then proceed to torque down lightly maybe 10- 20 ftlbs. now spin the tire to check your slack in the chain did it move on you? Then you have to tighten or loosen the chain adjustment nuts a little more in or out till you get it right so it can move into the correct position. Once you got it right torque down on the main axle nuts 50-60ft lbs. Now tighten evenly each chain nut with the same ammount of turns to each....tighten the last nut down hard onto the first so they wont vibrate off. Now you should lube the chain..and your ready to go. after a while of hard riding recheck everything just to make sure shes secure! Can i get a very helpful on this. thanks!
First off, there is a sticker on the swing arm on how much tension it should have. It's 30 mm up and down play on the chain in the middle between the sprockets.
You need a 1 1/4 socket for the rear axle.
You need a 10mm and 12mm wrench.
Loosen the rear axle nut, but don't remove.
Loosen both 12mm nuts.
Back out both 10mm bolts untill your chain tension is close to 30mm.
Tighten the 12mm nuts and then the axle nut.
Note...Make sure by the markings that both sides are even, so the wheel is straight, and make sure the wheel is pushed forward as you tighten the axle nut.
Loosen the nut on the axle and adjust the chain adjusters to pull the axle to the rear. Make sure that each adjuster is moved an equal amount and when finished should protrude an equal amount. Retorque axle to 50-60 foot pounds of torque.
Loosen off the axle nut (B) until it is only lightly tightened. Wind out the chain adjuster bolts (C)
evenly on both sides until you reach the desired tension. You will see
the top of the chain rise as you wind out the adjuster bolts.on pic below
Once you reach the correct tension, make sure both sides are evenly
spaced (using the marker grooves on the adjuster blocks). Squeeze the
chain against the swingarm with your hand to hold everything in place
and tighten up the axle nut.Tighten up the chain adjuster lock nuts. Now you're ready to ride!
Tighten up the chain adjuster lock nuts and thats it buddy measure the chain on the swing anr amr it should be 45mm slack on the swing and arm where the chain slider is
Your bike should have a master link. Remove the link then remove the chain. Loosen the axle nut and move the wheel forward. Mount the new chain and install the link. Be sure to put the master link clip with the closed end facing the direction of chain travel. Tighten the chain using swing arm index marks then re-tighten the axle.
Look at the rear axle. There should be marks on both sides indicating where the axle is in relation to the swingarm. Note the position of the axle, then loosen the axle. There MAY be chain adjusters at the back end of the swingarm, but not all bikes have those. If yours does, as you look at the swingarm from the rear of the bike you will see two adjustment bolts. Tighten those up, and make sure you keep the axle position indicators the same on both sides. Your chain should have 1-2 inches of slack as you lift and press down on the middle of the longest run of the chain. Often there is a sticker on the swingarm that tells you how much slack is acceptable, do as the sticker says if it is there.