Question about Suzuki GS 500 F Motorcycles

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Bike won't stay running

The bike will start but it is spraying gas out of the carbs into the air filter 92 suzuki gs500

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  • billhutson20 May 06, 2009

    but is on a 1979 gs750l i put my hand on the back of the carbs it runs fine until i stop

  • Anonymous May 16, 2009

    How the hell do I get the seat of my GS500F I have turned the key and tried lifting the seat from every each of it?

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  • Master
  • 3,567 Answers

Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Install new stock NGK spark plugs.

Remove the CARBS from the bike.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire
CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT CARB one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT CARB one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both CARBS. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each CARB such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other CARB.

With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other CARB so that the slide on that CARB just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both CARBS begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.

Turn the idle screw on each CARB EXACTLY ONE HALF turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your CARBS This should fix the problem. One last and VERY IMPORTANT thing, Have a fire extinguisher handy and ready for use any time you work on or with he CARBS.

Please rate this solution. Thanks throttlejock!



Posted on Apr 22, 2009

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My Suzuki Eiger 400 starts hard then once running is great.


The carburetor choke valve might be stuck open or not closing when the engine is cold. The engine needs a richer mixture to start. Too rich a mixture (flooding) can also cause trouble. Turn the fuel valve off to be sure the carb isn't leaking when not in use. If it smokes black on startup, it's flooding. Also check the condition of the spark plugs.

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1 Answer

Starts but won't rev


Hi, Kingyellow if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging remove the leads and let the battery sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a volt meter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank, google " how to clean a motorcycle gas tank" find a couple forums to view the different options available.
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and cracks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/archive/index.php/t-194233.html
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Still workin on my 1980 suzuki GS550 L. Inline 4 cylinder. My Problem is When I run the bike I have gas coming out of my overflow tube for the number 1 and number 2 carburetors but if I disconnect the...


Hi, Davescheier6 and the usual suspects are:
1. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
2. Loose float bowl screws.
3. Damaged float bowl o-ring.
4. improper fuel level in the float bowl.
5. Worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
6. Damaged or leaking float assembly.
7. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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94 gs500e suzuki starts and runs fine for about 15-20 mins then will stall and cut off while im driven like it has no gas. Then after 25 mins it will start back up and ride fine for awhile. any answers


The fuel petcock may be the problem. It works by opening a valve to let gas reach the carbs. It does this using a vacuum diaphragm drawing vacuum from the carbs. A gs500 will not work very well without an airfilter either. The carbs rely on proper vacuum to operate and a poor or no air filter will make a gs500 run very bad. Gs500s are air cooled also. If none of this solves the problem do a major tune up. Still nothing then take it to a mechanic. Taking shots in the dark gets expensive.

Aug 21, 2011 | 1990 Suzuki GS 500 E

1 Answer

I left my Suzuki DR-Z 125L out throughout the winter and now its trying to start but it wont. I replaced the spark plug and put in new oil.


Clean the air filter then spray some starting fluid in the carb intake. The carb may be a bit gummed up from gas evaporating over the winter. If so, clean the carb with spray carb cleaner. Be sure the float starts and stops the flow of gas properly.

Apr 10, 2011 | 2005 Suzuki DR-Z 125 L

1 Answer

I just purchased a 1985 Suzuki RM 250 that hasn't been started in 8 years. What suggestions would you have before I try and start it?


Change gearbox oil, install a new spark plug. Check for spark before installing the plug. Remove, dis-assemble, and clean the carb by soaking it in denatured alcohol for 15 minutes then finish with a can of spray carb cleaner. Wear goggles to protect your eyes from the spray.
In stall a new air filter. Remove the gas tank and clean it out. Install an in-line fuel filter to prevent trash from the tank getting into the carb. Use a can of spray starting fluid on the air filter to aid in starting.

Jul 04, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki RM 250

2 Answers

2001 suzuki gs 500 only starts when choke is on and dies when it is shut off. Leaving choke on and then giving it gas also kills the engine. any ideas


If you have good fat spark and there was no undue valve train noise prior to this problem, then your problem lies with fuel delivery, or restriction of it.

Air/fuel mix has to be right at start up and as such, all of the inlet system should be inspected or serviced. From air filter inlet, filter, manifolds. Fuel tap, fuel filter, fuel lines, float levels, float needle and seat, pilot and main jets, needle and slide.

Start with filters, check needle/slide are rising in unison and fuel is flowing freely to floatbowls. Good idea to take drains out of carby's and spray some aerosol carby cleaner down fuel lines till it flushes thru' carby' drains. Check carefully condition of inlet manifold providing an airtight seal. There is a sitelink below that has exploded views and part names for all sections for your bike to assist.
Cheers.

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs500-2000-euy_model13470/partslist/

Jun 02, 2010 | 2001 Suzuki GS 500 E

1 Answer

1992 Suzuki rm250


ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Jun 17, 2009 | 1993 Suzuki GSF 250 Bandit

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