Question about 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic

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Loose shift linkage arm on the transmition end how do I get to it

How do I get to the shift linkage arm on the transmition end to tighten

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Dude this is one of Harleys worst engenering feat. first do this/ take a long allen and loosen the bolt then retighten it. Sometimes this will work. If not my friend you have to take the inner Primary off just to remove that piece off the rod. If harley woild just give us a quater of an inch it would slip off. but they won't. So it takes a couple hrs (experienced) to change a 5 dollar part and 20 second fix. All the work is in removeing the primary. thats the only way their is no room between that shaft and the back of the inner primary... Like i said try the loosen and tighten trick first if your splines are to shot you have to go the hard route. Sorry hope this helps... I changed mine 3 months ago hahhah Plus I do it for a living.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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Don't re-tighten existing allen head bolt! First of all, canNOT get enough torque to make it tight..second, the bolt itself does not loosen, it stretches! 80% of the time, if the spline isn't stripped already, a "Grade 8" 5/16 hex head bolt, with lock washer and plenty of RED thread lock will do the trick...just tighten, and enjoy. If you need a new shifter shaft, Pingel makes one that can be lubricated,(about $85 and just put a new shift lever on when you change it out, should be good to go. For the rear I'm going with "Easy Lever"...(google it)....much better construction that the MoCo's cheap sh#t...new linkage as well. TOO important not to replace. But that's just me...better safe and alive than sorry.

Posted on Feb 07, 2013

  • Kenneth Clifton
    Kenneth Clifton Feb 07, 2013

    Don't re-tighten existing allen head bolt! First of all, canNOT get enough torque to make it tight..second, the bolt itself does not loosen, it stretches! 80% of the time, if the spline isn't stripped already, a "Grade 8" 5/16 hex head bolt, with lock washer and plenty of RED thread lock will do the trick...just tighten, and enjoy. If you need a new shifter shaft, Pingel makes one that can be lubricated,(about $85 and just put a new shift lever on when you change it out, should be good to go. For the rear I'm going with "Easy Lever"...(google it)....much better construction that the MoCo's cheap sh#t...new linkage as well. TOO important not to replace. But that's just me...better safe and alive than sorry.

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Harley davidson shift linkage adjustment


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I am not familiar with your particular bike but for the most part they are all alike. There should be a small bolt on the end of the shift pedal. Tighten it up; it probably requires a 10mm wrench. Some bikes will have a linkage at the end of the shift pedal. The rod connecting the linkage will connect to the shift shaft using a small bolt as above. Tighten the bolt. Below is a diagram showing a linkage connection. In either style, the bolt to tighten is the one connected to the shift shaft. tombones49_153.gif

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- These two rods are shifting linkage, there will be nuts n bolts at each end of the rod, tighten them using proper tool.

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STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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1 Answer

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2 Answers

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