Question about kawasaki KX 125 Motorcycles

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How thick should the friction plates be on my 97 kx 125 be ?

When i pull the clutch in when its in gear the back wheel will not turn freely, the clutch cable is adjusted as much as it can be, any ideas thanks

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  • robbrooke Apr 21, 2009

    It has a new clutch cable on it, does anyone know what thickness the clutch plates should be ?

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  • Contributor
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There will be some drag with it in gear and the clutch disengaged. The big test.. does it try to creep along when idling in 1st? The wheel should be free enough to turn by hand sorta, but there should be resistance. Once the oil is warm the drag will decrease significantly. When adjusting the clutch be sure to have the proper free lever. If you have it too tight it's going to start slipping, and hose the plates. You should be able to slip a penny between the handle and the perch at the gap crossed by the cable, before the clutch starts to open (the lever moves on the motor)

Wat lube are you running in the case? some goopey slop will cause a significant drag. When the clutch is in you are still turning all the gears in the transmission, that is a load of drag!
Have you recently rebuilt clutch? Check for notches in the basket dragging on the plates.

Plates and liners out of order will really drag bad. Have you had the plates out of the basket?

When it's idling and you put it into gear, does it kill the engine?

Posted on May 16, 2009

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  • Master
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When you ride it does it seem like the clutch is slipping?? and second sounds like a new clutch cable is the next thing to buy as it should not be tightened all the way

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

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1 Answer

Clutch


where it doesnt fully engage but I am having the opposite problem where I can not get my clutch to disengage. I have the top cable adjuster-adjusted so there is about a nickels (few mm) worth of play where i can pull the clutch lever that much before the cable really starts pulling. With it on the stand when i start it and put it in gear the wheel spins (enough that it is hard to stop the wheel and if i do the bike stalls) even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in and when riding it, the clutch doesnt actually seem to engage until the lever is almost all the way out. I adjusted the cable adjuster and unscrewed it as far as it can unscrew which was considerably further out then it is with the nickels worth of play and it changed nothing aside from the tightness of the lever/cable. On the stand the wheel still spins and stalls if i put enough force on it to stop the wheel and when riding the clutch still seems to engage and the same point (where the lever is almost all the way out). I think when I am on it and put it in gear, it doesnt stall becuase i keep the Rs up and my weight keeps the back tire from turning and slips the clutch?? Any comments, ideas, advice, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. ,well , the most obvious is a worn out clutch..BUT it can also be from the plates sticking together, or the springs are beyond their service limit. you can check and change all this at once.... 1) drain the oil 2) take off the clutch cover 3) loosen the screws that hold the pressure plate 4) check the springs (they should be a specific length , over time the length decreases) 5) take out pressure plate 6) check every plate , you can check thickness with a good caliper.( if the pads on the thick discs look worn or are not there the clutch is worn and you need a new set of plates) if they discs are still in good condition try cleaning them with a solvent like alcohol etc...but be carefull you do not use a aggressive solvent as the pads are made from cork and some solvents will damage the cork . If you change the pads the best thing to do is change the metal and the friction pads aswell as the springs. there's a trick to use a clutch that's worn down alot and that is to add another metal plate to the outside so your total stack height becomes higher , however this will only help you 1 or 2 heats after that the clutch is toast either way. hope thats FIXYA.,,,

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