Question about 2005 Yamaha TT-R 125 E

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2006 Yamaha TTR 50E pouring oil out of air cleaner housing

Rode my sons bike up and down block to warm it up for him pretty much at full throttle and braked and downshifted quickly rpm's went way up bike still was fine parked and idled in driveway for 2min. when oil began pouring out of air cleaner housing shut it down rite away bike must of lost 2/3 rds. of its oil. Next day refilled oil to proper level checked overflow hose that runs from crankcase to air cleaner housing for crimp or blockages it is fine. started bike up and just continues to pour oil out of same area also while it is running it seems to be starving for gas if you feather the throttle slghtly to much at all bike will die however if you cup your hand over opening inside of air cleaner you can rev. bike fine any ideas ? very much appreciated !

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With the oil problem I read on another site that Yamaha did that so that excess oil would be burned up in normal running (but this was usually smaller amounts). Anyways they disconnected the tube going to the air cleaner and had tied up in such a way that any excess oil would land on the chain thus lubricating it. But if you have that much oil coming out it could be that you have put in too much.

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

  • Graham Oct 17, 2012

    Thanks for your input on this, however our problem is oil coming out of the alternator housing, not the air cleaner housing, thanks all the same!

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The only thing i can think of about the oil is that you are putting to much in however for the whole rev. thing it's most likely your air fuel screw on your carb. just adjust the screw until you can leave it idle by itself 

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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Adjust carburetor yamaha 125 ttr


Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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Why does oil blow from breather to air cleaner yamaha tt 600


Hi, Anonymous oil leaking from your air cleaner is caused by oil carryover from the engine. For whatever reason, the breather system is not separating enough oil mist and air from the piston downstroke. There are cheap and quick easy fixes and there are more expensive ones. First, make sure your breather hoses are not dry and cracked if they are ok you can start by trying the following:
1. Run your oil level half way between the add and full mark when hot.
2. Run oil breather lines from the head into a TEE fitting below carb/induction module then a single line into a mini filter under the frame.
3. Purchase Arlen Ness Super Sucker.
4. Replace umbrella valves and realign oil pump.
5. Upgrade oil pump and cam plate.
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Jun 11, 2014 | 2000 Yamaha TT 600 R

1 Answer

Tt-r 50 2009 been sitting for awhile an wont start


Hi, Anonymous if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will idle and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging remove the leads and let the battery sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a volt meter, you should have 12.5 volts or better, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper load test on the battery and replace as necessary, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank, google " how to clean a motorcycle gas tank" find a couple forums to view the different options available.
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a carb dip or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
8. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
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Nov 03, 2013 | 2006 Yamaha TT-R 50E

1 Answer

2006 ttr 50 dies when giving gas


Hi, Jason and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle circuit and transfer ports clogged.
2. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
3. Pilot jet clogged.
4. Faulty accelerator pump.
5. Float level too low.
6. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
7. Float bowl vent or overflow tube clogged.
8. Fuel flow to carburetor restricted.
9. Intake manifold leak.
10. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
11. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
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For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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1 Answer

Ttr50 oil blowing from vent tube


Hi, Lee oil level readings are taken when the engine has reached normal operating temperature and the usual suspects are:
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2. If the sight glass is full you are running to much oil.
3. Excessive blowby caused by worn out piston rings.
4. Piston rings never properly seated.
5. Faulty breather valve or system.
6. Pinched or clogged breather line/hose.
7. Clogged or failed oil filter.
8. Contaminated oil dirt-rust-water etc.
9. Excessive oil foaming.
10. Wrong oil type not designed for your bike.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

My harley has a small leak coming from the air filter, the mechanic at the harley dealership told me it was the air filter. So i bought a new filter put it on and checked the oil level, with the bike...


Regrettably, a small oil leak from the air cleaner assembly is "normal". This is because the EPA requires all crankcase emissions to be routed to the intake system so that it can be burned in the engine. The result is that oil mist in the crankcase vented condenses in the air cleaner and eventually drips out.

The crankcase vent for your Sporty is in the heads. If you noticed, there are two large bolts that are hollow holding the air filter backing plate on. The crankcase vents into the air cleaner assembly through these two bolts. There is an "unbrella valve" in the rocker box center section that allows the air to flow one way but not the other. There are baffles in this area to keep the oil mist to a minimum but still there is some in the air coming out of the engine.

There are a few kits available on the aftermarket for re-routing this crankcase vent. You can direct the exit anywhere you wish using one of these kits. Most people just route the hose down and exit it under the bike just in front of the rear wheel.

When adding oil to your bike, only add the oil when the engine is hot. On your dipstick, you have two marks. The upper mark represents "FULL HOT" while the lower mark represents 'FULL COLD", Do not overfill. Check the level with the bike on the side stand.

Good Luck
steve

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2 Answers

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Has the bike been stored for any long length of time?
old fuel in the carburetor will turn to a varnish like residue blocking the jets,or possibly water in the carburetor.

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2 Answers

This bike is a 2007 and is extremely cold blooded


check for air leak where carb meets intake manifold.air cleaner element must be in good condition and prpoerly seated.

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750 89' Yamaha Virago gas & oil coming out of air cleaner


sounds like the floats are stuck. cleaning carbs should do the trick. its a good practice to start up motorcycles and let them warm up from time to time while being stored.

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Yamaha ttr 90 dirt bike


well i had the same problem with my old ttr 90 it smoked realy bad so i took off the top end an looked at the piston rings an they were fried so i bought a new piston rebuild kit an put it in an changed the oil an it ran like a champ an didnt smoke so thats what i think ur problem is

Oct 11, 2008 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

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