Ive been told that if i have got 10w30 oil in my transmition instead of 10w40 it will cause my clutch plates to expand is this possible? because my yz 125 2001 model stays in grear even with the clutch pulled in, i know when i pull the lever it is lifting the presure plate as i can feel it. ive opened up the clutch and took all the plates out and everything seems to be fine the inner hub moves freely without touching the outer clutch basket, the prombel only happens when i put it all back together, which makes me think mibby the frictionplates ect have maybe grew . any sugestions will be very helpful thank you. Ryan Dundas.
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Re: puting wrong oil in transmition
The problem did not start untill the 10w30 Honda transmission oil went in. It isn't the 10w30 thats the problem. It's the TRANSMISSION oil as opposed to MOTOR oil. There is a difference. As I said before, the swelling may or may not go away.
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First, this isn't a motorcycle, so I had to re-categorize the question.
Motor oil is determined by engine, not vehicle. The correct oil may be listed on the underside of your hood. Most newer non-diesel engines request 5W30 or 5W40 especially if you live in a part of the world that is below freezing multiple days in the winter. If you have a higher mileage engine (100,000+) you may want to go with 10W30 or 10W40 in the summer, as this will quiet the engine.
Usually motorcycle-grade 10w30 or 10w40 works well. NEVER use automotive oil in your bike. It was fine to do back in the 80's, but not now. Automotive oils have too many additives in them and eventually cause clutch slippage in motorcycles. Cars don't have oil-dampened clutches in their engines. So they can use slipperier additives.
The chief benefit with synthetic oils is they can withstand higher heat
and flow better when cold. 10w40 or 20w50 will
work. Manual Recommends Yamalube 4 (10w30 or SAE 10w30 10-100 F) Yamalube 4 (10w40 or SAE 10w40 35-120 F) approx. API Service SE,SF, SG type or higher. Crank case oil capacity without filter 2.75 quarts Crank case oil capacity with oil filter 2.96 quarts It is HIGHLY recommended not to add the stated capacity all at once. Check site glass often when nearing the total amount needed. You DO NOT want to overfill. Clutch use the same oil? If you mean the brake system Recommended is DOT 4 brake fluid. Manual only shows Clutch and cable system and adjustments. Good luck! Hope this helps
Assuming the clutch cable is intact and adjusted properly at the handlebars, the normal things that would cause the clutch to fail to disengage are extremely dirty oil or that synthetic lubricant has been used in the gearbox instead of 10w40 motor oil. Synthetics can cause the cork on the fiber clutch plates to swell. This causes the clutch to stay engaged. Extremely dirty oil can also cause the clutch to fail to disengage. If the oil is dirty, change it then ride for 30 minutes and change it again to flush out the grit. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
If you put synthetic oil in the gearbox that is the problem. Synthetics can swell the cork on the clutch friction plates causing the problem you describe. New friction plates and a change back to standard 10w40 motor oil is what will be needed.
If standard 10w40 oil is in the gearbox then it may be very dirty. If so, drain it then put in a new filter and fresh oil. Ride the bike for an hour or so using the clutch often then drain the oil and install fresh oil. This will flush out the grit that can cause the problem.
About the only other things that could be causing the problem are a badly frayed clutch cable, a badly worn clutch arm assembly (at the gearbox), a dirty clutch arm assembly, a broken spring, a clutch that has been messed with and re-assembled or adjusted incorrectly, and a bent clutch pushrod.
This is not normal. Dirty oil can cause the clutch plates to grab. Try doing an oil change. Some oils and lubricants can cause the friction plates to swell which can also cause the plates to grab. Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. If in hot areas like Texas or New Mexico go with 20w50.
Nothing significant, don't worry about it. You do NOT want oil marked EC, signifying energy conservation. Such oil will cause the clutch plates to slip and premature clutch wear. If the oil you put in does say EC on the small round type seal simply drain it out and put in the correct oil. Not critical but the sooner the better.
Lose the Honda transmission oil. It may have swollen the cork on the friction plates. Go with 10w40 in the gearbox. Any major brand; Mobil, Shell, Quaker State, Pennzoil, etc.. Try the new oil and give the cork a week to shrink back down > if they will. You may need to put in a new set of plates.
You are saying that with the clutch lever pulled in the bike still wants to go forward. Generally that is caused by dirty, gritty oil in the gearbox. Go ahead and change the oil. 10w40 motor oil is what you want. I think that will fix the problem assuming the clutch plates were installed properly. The first plate installed and the last plate installed should be a fiber friction plate, 8 plates total. A metal pressure plate goes between each fiber plate, 7 plates total.
Be sure the lever assembly arm is installed so that it gets full movement of the clutch cable. If the full range of movement is not present then full disengagement of the clutch is not going to happen.
cape cod bob did you a good service in the manual referral. Be sure to say thanks.