Question about 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

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Rear brakes lock up

Sometimes when i put on the brakes the rear brakes lock up. this doesnt always happen but i need to fix it. i already replaced the master cylinder and changed the fluid. can anybody help me?

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  • Gar
    Gar May 11, 2010

    Is the caliper excessively hot when this happens? Are the brakes dragging?

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The most likely problem will be the rubber line coming from the splitter leading to the caliper. With age these get soft inside allowing fluid to pass one way easily but not the other. Remove this line and blow through it both ways to insure the fluid can pass both ways. If needed check the line from the master cylinder to the splitter as well.

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

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2 Answers

Brake system failure


I think brake proportional Valve (or Brake pressure regulator) which usually a part of Master cylinder is suspicious.
It regulates pressure to Front and Rear brake line.

If I were you, I try to draw air from Master-cylinder side (not Caliper side).
(Bleed from connector between Master-cylinder and pipe, same way as caliper. someone keep pushing brake then you lose connector then tight. Don't forget to put towel under master cylinder to catch brake fluid)
If air trapped in Proportional valve (pressure regulator), pressure won't relay to rear brake line but only front side.
Front has two separate line from master cylinder (right and left) but rear goes in one line from master cylinder then separate at rear.

Did you noticed both rear brake dragged when it's hot day ?
Because when air get hot, air expand and pushes to caliper and drag but not respond to your pedal.
(calipers don't respond when you push pedal, but it's pushes calipers by itself even you are not pushing pedal, when it's hot because air expand)
Sometimes, seal get old and lose pressure for only one side (front or rear).

if this happened after you did brake job, or you notice your brake was vapor locked (too much brake on hot day then brake fluid boiled), maybe air bleed and whole fluid change may solve.
if you didn't have any unusual activity but it gradually losing pressure to rear, I suspect master cylinder (proportional valve seal).

Sorry I don't have exact e46 master cylinder diagram but basic diagram, hope you can understand what I am talking about.
Picture shows "leak" but this case "Air" in somewhere in pink.
or lose seal on rear piston.

25989474-goldldc3aki35lcvobofcxjr-2-0.gif

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1999 toyota 4 runner rear tires (brakes) keep locking up. they do not lock up in reverse, but when i put it into drive i have to give it a lot of gas before they "break free" then they are fine, but


May I ask-- what in detail -- was done by these professionals?

How would it even be possible-- they found nothing?

Sounds like the parking cables, are rusted inside
& need to be replaced

At this point-- I would do all your own work

Instead of asking questions-- get it apart & verify your thoughts

Brakes replace ,RECENTLY, nothing funny there ??

Sloppy work & money spent-- so you now have bought a problem
--not there before?

If a shop can't do brake work-- they need to go out of business

Does your master cylinder--know if your going forward or backwards,don't think so

Locked up parking pivot--you just had someone in there,
so they did nothing or caused that also?

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sounds like the serov on the brake system has gone could be the abs side or the master cylinder its self. with engine running can you hear a hissing sound from the master cylinder. ??

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Hi, what you feel is your anti-lock brake actuator pumping the brakes. This is probably due to dirty/dusty or improperly adjusted brake shoes causing the rear brakes to lock. It is also possible that you have a leak in one or both rear brake cylinders. Have your rear brakes checked, cleaned, and adjusted. If you would like to do it yourself, I can provide instructions--just let me know.

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First do you have ABS next did you bench bleed the new master cylinder if not you can;t bleed the rest of the system You have to keep in mind that you have opened the entire system up and there is going to be a lot of air traped in it Getting back to the master cylinder it needs to be bleed pirior to installing it you need a little kit put the fittings into the holes where the lines go put the little hoses in to the resivoior put the cylinder in a vice and push on the pistion from the back until no more comes out of corse you need to fill it first then install it and rebleed the lines starting at the ferthise cylinder away from the master and work to the closest and its going to talk at least 10 to 15 pumps for the rears less for the front becase there closer and there is less line to bleed Make sure you have no leaks first if you see anything at all stop and fix the leak Hopefuly don;t have abs thats a whole differant thing but the brake still work fine with out it get them working and worry about that later good luck

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That sounds to me like a problem with the power brake booster unit or the master cylinder, the wrong master cylinder could be installed, and this could happen if the plunger rod from the vacuum booster unit is too long for the opening on the rear of the master cylinder, that is why any time that a master cylinder is replaced to be certain that the depth of the plunger valve in the rear of the master cylinder is the same as the original part that was removed. Also the brake booster itself could be malfunctioning and activating the brakes with just the engine vacuum.

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