**** thanks for that. That's what I did in the end but had to replace the grease stop that was at the back of the bearing just wonted to see if I could save that part, ended making a new one from some thin steel from work. I have a new problem now I can not find a honda dealer that still has any parts for this bike as they stopped making it way back. I need to find the bearing bushes for the rear suspension linkage. This is a common MOT fault on this bike so am surprised I can not find any. Does anyone know were I might find any pattern parts? Or know anyone who would be willing to make some up I would take as many sets as I could get but don't wont to pay through the nose for them but would pay of course as a lathe would need to be set up for it. Regards j
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Re: Rear Linkage bearings
Try robinsons foundrys you can find the adress in mcn they do a lot of old bike spares quite cheap. i got a lot of original parts for my gs650g katana i was restoring from them at a very reasonable price and they are genuine parts.
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If you are running tapered bearings then I would say that your problem is over-tightening and will destroy bearings very quickly. Too much or not enough grease will do the same . To properly grease new bearings you have to get the grease between the rollers and under the cage (that steel bit that holds the bearings apart) To do this place a small amount of grease in the palm of your hand and use the open end of the bearing to create a scraping action through the grease . This catches the grease and pushes it between the rollers. Do this action until you see it coming out the small end of the bearing. This is all the grease you need for a properly lubricated bearing. Repeat the process for the other bearing. Reassemble and fit the washer and locknut. Tighten the nut at the same time turning the wheel. When the nut is firm against the bearing but not tight turn the wheel a few more times. Now don't touch the wheel but loosen off the nut then retighten it up until it just touches the bearing. This is a no pre-load no end float situation that is most desirable for tapered roller bearings. Fit the split pin in the hole and open up the pin to catch it in the hole. If the pin hole will not allow this to happen tighten it just enough to get the first available slot to line up to allow the pin in. If you have thrust ball bearings they same method of greasing and adjustment is applicable.
I take it that the van is a rear wheel drive. So remove the wheel. Remove the brake caliper and lift off the disc. Undo the axle nut and remove hub from axle. Knock out both the bearing cups and clean hub center. Fit new cups into the hub ensuring they are tight against the seat. Thaking a small amount of grease in the palm of you hand take the cone and with the most open area tend to scrape the grease from you palm so that the grease is forced between the rollers until it come out the smallest end.This grease is all thaty you will need for a properly lubricated bearing. Spread grease evenly around the outside of the rollers. Fit inner cone into hub and tap in new grease seal (lip facing bearing) Having repeated lubricating process on outer cone fit hub back on axle and fit outer cone. Fitflat washer and nut . Do nut up while turning hub so as to seat bearings. Tighten nut until a slight drag is felt when turning the hub. Now comes the difficult part. Without touching the hub undo the nut until it is slightly loose then do it back up until it just touches the bearing. THis is a no preload -no freeplay position for the bearing. Having achieved this, pin the nut . IF it is necessary to turn the nut to allow this to happen tighten the nut slightly. Refit dust cap ,calpier, wheel etc REmember to replace both bearings cups and cones and use high temp grease Safety first --place the vehiocle in stands--- not bricks
THE LEAK is an axle seal leaking the noise is bearings in rear end could be axle bearing of carrier/pinion bearings while driving shift weight of truck side to side see if noise changes if so it is axle bearing if not then most likely differential bearings
Hello, some of the Front wheel drive cars used a rear suspension system which requires an Alignment just the same as the front end. You can get the rear Alignment separately but it is usually a packaged 4 wheel Alignment. Jack up the back end of the car and turn the wheels and check for them turning hard. This will indicate a brake or bearing problem.
The rear wheels do have an Emergency brake which can cause problems dragging even when not used. The bonded lining falls off the brake shoe when it rusts and the lining falls onto the rotating parts and gets ground up. Sometimes you will hear a noise like loose rust as you stop and start at low speeds. You can also have a sticking rear Caliper or drum brake.
The rear hubs have bearings which can fail; usually you will hear noises or have vibrations when the bearings are worn loose. Your best bet is to remove the rear brake rotor and visually inspect the Emergency brakes and feel the turning of the rear hub bearing. If you do not have the rear brake assembly on the car it will be easier to work on the bearing. Bearings are made 2 ways. The Sealed bearings are replaced as a hub unit. The Serviceable bearings have removeable bearings and races.
You want to have the rear bearing in good shape before having an Alignment. The Sealed bearing hubs are the easiest to replace by removing and replacing only bolts. The Serviceable bearings can require punching out and installing a new race, then packing the bearing with grease.
Some shops do both Brakes and Alignment and some just do the brakes. You can fix what you can handle before getting an Alignment or pay for both jobs. I hope you find my solution very helpful.
You mention front and rear wheel bearings have no play, but have you replaced them? I do remember part customers replacing the wheel bearings on the gl1200 at about 10,000 mile intervals because of what you describe. You do not mention the miles on the motorcycle but I think that if you replace the front and rear wheel bearings you will notice a huge difference in how your Gl1200 handles. I do not think it will be necessary to do anything with the final drive bearings. Remember to regrease the spline on the final drive with Moly60 grease before reinstalling the rear wheel. I have replaced the wheel bearings on my GL1000 ( around 125,000 miles) several times and handling always improves.
Its an older bike. Check your linkage, make sure nothings been overtightened and all the bearings are greased. Run all your clickers in and back them both back out 7 clicks or so. There are both compression and dampening adjusters. One on the cartridge and one down near the linkage.
Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
Remove the hub grease cap.
Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.
Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.
Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
where to start... i'm not sure where you are in the R&R of your bearing so lets start after the rear wheel is off. remove your lower shock bolt and linkage ( mark all parts while removing them so you'll know where they go ) now remove the swingarm bolt, you'll have spacers in there so WATCH where they come from. Now you have the swing arm in your hand. remove the seals, take you punch and start to knock out the bearings be carefull not to dug into the swing arm. do the same for the linkage. grease new bearing, install the new bearings a socket is a driver install seals, spacers, swingarm, linkage ect..
There is a race bearing on the back side of the rotor. If you haven't replaced it, I would strongly recommend it. You should change those out every time you change your rotors. Most new rotors come with new race bearings, if it did come with a new one (and it isn't shot yet), pull it out and pack it with grease. Wear latex gloves, put a pile of general purpose grease in your hand, and start stuffing the grease into the bearing until it comes out the other side.