Clutch assembly Is pinion gear pressed on the distant collar?

Let's take Wild GUESSES in the absence or 'year make model Jenna'. :>D

I cannot get the structural collar out to remove the last 2

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Chrysler Repair
Oct 30, 2020 - I have the rack and Pinion unit Moved out of the way, but the structural collar seems to not be able to move in any directionThe rack and Pinion ...
1 answer · Top answer: Hello and thank you for using JustAnswer. My name is ***** ***** I will do my best to assist ...

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  Chrysler PT Cruiser: I have removed 4 bolts from the ...

  https://www.justanswer.com > Chrysler Repair
  Oct 28, 2014 - My question is how to remove the structural collar between the transmission and engine that blocks two oil pan bolts, The information you ...

Structural collar location and removal - PT Cruiser

Fixya https://www.fixya.com > ... > Chrysler > PT Cruiser
Apr 14, 2013 - Position the power steering hose support bracket and install the collar to oil pan bolt. Position the clutch slave cylinder into position and ...

With the starter off, there should be no contact/engagement between the starter gear and the clutch ring gear.

transmission synchronizers most common cause of transmisson noise in certain gears, and not others, might want to check the gear oil level. Transmission rebuild required. To read about them and what they actually do, then here is a good read:
When you shift gears in your standard shift car, you move a rod that moves a fork that engages the gear. Depending which gear you're shifting to, a different fork does the job. The fork moves the collar to the desired gear, and dog teeth on the collar mesh up with holes on the gear in order to engage it. You engage reverse gear through a separate, small idler gear. The reverse gear always turns in the opposite direction of the other (forward) gears.
In years past, double-clutching was common in order to disengage a gear, allow the collar and next gear to reach the same speed, and then to engage the new gear. To double-clutch shift, you pushed the clutch pedal to free the engine from the transmission. Then the collar moved into neutral. You released the clutch and revved the engine to get it to the right rpm value for the next gear so the collar and the next gear spun at the same rate to allow the dog teeth to engage the gear. When the engine hit the right speed, you depressed the clutch again in order to lock the collar into place on the next gear.
Modern cars use synchronizers in order to avoid the need for double-clutching. A synchronizer, or "synchro," lets the collar and gear synchronize their speeds while they're already in contact but before the dog teeth engage. Each manufacturer's synchro is slightly different than the others, but the basic idea is the same. For instance, a cone on one gear will fit into a cone-shaped depression on the collar. The gear and collar synchronize their speeds thanks to the friction between the cone and collar. Then the outer part of the collar moves out of the way so that the gear can be engaged by the dog teeth.

Here's what Chilton has to say on assembling the main shaft.
1.assemble 2nd gear, from rear of main shaft, with hub toward rear.
2.Install 1-2 synchronizer ring , with clutch taper to rear, together with a blocker ring on each side so their keyways line up with the clutch keys. Some units will have a snap ring to go on now or some units will have a 1st gear spacer sleeve to go on.
3. Install 1st gear with hub toward front and 1st gear thrust washer.
4.Press rear main bearing onto shaft being sure to seat it firmly. The diagram shows a piece of 1 and 5/8 ID pipe used to do this.
5. Install correct snap ring in groove on mainshaft behind rear bearing. Max gap between snap ring and rear face of bearing is 0"-.005".
6.Install 3rd gear, hub to front, and synchronizing ring, notches to front.
7. Install 3-4 clutch assembly with taper and hub to front. Make sure keys in hub correspond to notches in 3rd gear synchronizer.
8.Install snap ring on mainshaft with ends of snap ring behind spline teeth.
9.Install rear bearing retainer. Spread snap ring in plate to allow plate to drop around main bearing and press on end of mainshaft until snap ring engages groove on bearing.
10. Install reverse gear with collar to rear.
11. Press speedometer gear drive on mainshaft. From the inside face of the speedometer drive to the inside face of the rear bearing retainer should be 4 and 5/16".

Sounds like a slipping pinion gear. Remove starter solenoid assembly and put on the kitchen table, old newspapers for protection are optional. The pinion gear is the one on the end of the starter motor shaft that is driven forward to engage with e toothed edge of the flywheel. It should free wheel in one direction and lock solid when reversed. The locking clutch mechanism its what supplies the motor's rotation to the flywheel to crank the engine over. If the pinion gear clutch is slipping the motor makes a whizzing sound as the shaft spins within it. You can buy a new pinion gear cheaply. Whilst the motor is out buy a refurbishment kit ($10) for the solenoid consisting of contact striker plates and plunger . This preventative measure will avoid any hassle in this department for many years.

WELL PROBLEM COULD BE BROKEN DAMAGED OVERRUNNING CLUTCH ASSEMBLY NOT ALLOWING DRIVE PINION GEAR TO DISENGAGE.OR BROKEN RETURN SPRING IN STARTER SOLENOID KEEP THE SHIFT LEVER DRIVE PINION GEAR ENGAGED.

OK, I'm going to guess you are talking about the ring and pinion gears.
You need to remove both front axle shafts and remove the carrier to get the ring gear out. To remove the pinion, hold the yoke with a large pipe wrench and use a long wrench (for leverage) and remove the center bolt.
If you intend to re-build the differential you should know in advance you need a good dial indicator, a press to install side bearings, shim packs or crush collars, a good rebuild manual for specifications and experience in "reading" gear contact patterns.
Parts are expensive and if not assembled precisely they will self destruct very quickly.
Best option is to find a used "end to end" unit in a scrapyard, with the identical gear ratio. Replacement is faster and far easier than rebuilding, and less likely to fail.

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. For servicing the clutch you’ll need to first remove the gear case. The gear case can be removed by first removing the outer cabinet. After removing the cabinet, remove the pump and motor assembly. Now carefully lay down the washer on its back and remove the 3 bolts securing the gear case. Now pull the gear case straight out from the tube support assembly. Now, compress the clutch spring with a pair of pliers and lift the lining from the clutch hub. To remove entire clutch assembly begin by removing the spin tube thrust washer up & off the agitator and then remove the tube support ring. Remove the retainer ring and lift the clutch hub up and off spin pinion.


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Thanks

Rylee

You need some gear oil put in the rear end!!!

I had the same problem with my label marker. Changing the batteries fixed the problem