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Re: Ohlins spring Inserts, Front Forks - BMW F800GS
You are right in the removal and replacement of the springs, my tip so you dont have to change the oil is when you are removing the springs nip your fingers on 1 section of the spring and turn the spring in your fingers like you are unscrewing a bolt.any oil loss will be neglible. oil is 270mls per leg if you want to change it.
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Both are adjustable. The forks have an adjustment screw. Press down on the front end while standing next to the bike. It should rebound fairly quick but it shouldn't start to go back down again on it's own (oscillates due to not enough damping). Adjust screws evenly on both forks (exact same amount) clockwise and repeat process mentioned until rebound is smooth and doesn't oscillate. The same applies to the rear but you have only one adjustment on the Ohlins reservoir for the monoshock assembly. Do the bounce test and adjust clockwise until the rebound feels firm and doesn't oscilllate. It should handle like a beast and wheelie much easier now.
I found it easier to remove the forks and take them to a shop to have the seals done.In doing this you are still saving a bucket load of money. Removal of the forks takes about an hour and a half and is relatively easy without any specialist tools. You only have to remove the top part of the fairing.
you will need to remove the top cap off the forks to do this and the spring will just pull out thats on the conventional forks if they are the usd the same applys but you will need to undo the top cap from the centre stem with spanners to remove the spring hope this helps
First of all do not add oil to your front forks with out draining them first. If you over fill your forks with oil you will damage your forks. To change your oil in your forks, first center stand the bike and lift the front wheel by putting a jack under the motor. Remove the front wheel and axle and put a pie tin under the fork tube. Reach up into the bottom of the fork tube with a hex key and loosen the screw but do not remove. Now take the air pressure cross over tube off, this will allow you to unscrew the fork tops( On some bikes you may have to put a towel on the tank and unbolt the handle bars to get them out of the way.). Pull the screws out of the bottom of the forks and gently pull down the oil should come out now. If you need new fork seals take the lower tubes off and replace(You may need to take off the fender and hang the calipers with wires.). Turn the lowers over and dump out the oil and reinstall fork lowers. Snug up screws and sealing washers on the bottom of forks you can not tighten till you put on fork tops. Now pour in measured amount of oil, again do not over fill. Put on fork tops and air crossover tube. Now tighten screws on bottom of fork. Finish reassembling bike.
That is a good one. You are going to find springs and oil! Unless the seals are leaking, you shouldn't have to touch the forks. If the springs are shot, I would just get a new set of forks. But that is rare. You have to take them apart and spill the oil all over the place and get the seals off and the new ones on. There are books written about your specific forks, just have to dig. They tell you to get a pan like a wallpaper pan, and about 40 newspapers, and pull the tops off and catch the oil, then pull the springs out with all the washers etc, Not a hard job.Need about 2 bottles of fork oil, each one takes about 3/4 of a bottle. It is a premeasured amount, you will have to look that up too. Hope this helps.
That is something you are going to have to look up from the manuf. They don't hold much, maybe 1 pt. I just did mine, 3/4 pint in each. I bought 2 bottles at the motorcycle shop and still have some left. So look up your forks, ohlins, brembo, sachs, ceriani, showa, whatever, get the schematic for them, pull them apart in a big pan to catch the oil, and replace the seal, or whatever you are doing. You don't have to top them off if they don't show signs of a leak, if you feel the shock is gone out of them, well, that's different. Your bike is a 2005, it shouldn't have a problem in the front end. Hope this helps.
You just needed to.... remove front wheel, support bike on something, undo retaining bolts on forks, tap out fork legs from the top, using a soft mallet. Take out fork seals with a seal pick, (halfords) Replace old seal with new seals, in reverse order) sliding over the fork leg, tapping into place. Then put replace forks etc in reverse order (from dissassembly). Hope this helps
will the 1098 Showa forks fit a 996 have done a search but haven't found much. I know they will fit in the standard 996 triple clamps but will my standard 996 wheel and brake rotors fit or will i need different offset rotors?The 1098 forks are actually pretty much the same as the xx9 forks. The xx8 bikes use a different diameter upper fork tube, so it won't just fit in. I think the xx8 is 53mm top and 54mm bottom and the 848/1098 is 54mm all the way through. So you'd have to change the triples, which isn't a big deal, you should be able to fit a xx9 triple on there.
Even after that, they are radial mounts and you'd have to get a different set of rotors and calipers.
Its not a big deal to do any of this... If you want a better front end on your 996, I highly suggest re-building the stock showa's with ohlins inserts. If you want better braking, buy a set of the older gold series 4pod/pad calipers, they work fantastic and mount to all the older forks.
Radial mounts are a gimmick and a rebuilt fork is always gonna be better then a stock one...,,,