My rear brake in not working on my 03 suzuki tl1000r motrcycle

Yes it will wreck your clutch plates and you will need to replace them and flush the engine clean of the car oil as the anti friction additives in the oil attack the plates and they break down into little bits

push back the pads if possible and then press the brake and see if they return ! if not then remove the pads and clean where they fit and press the brake a little so the pistons come out then gently clean off then push back in and refit pads and try !

check the seating area on the wheels where the discs sit, so remove discs, and clean the contact area.

Hello Dale, this is an easy job on your bike. Use a flat head screw driver and remove the brake pad cover...it will pop off.
Remove the hairpin type clips off of the ends of the brake pad pins.... Use pliers & pull the brake pad pins out from the front of the rear brake caliper....Clean the rear brake caliper's piston with brake cleaner. Use a rag and wipe it clean...Reinsert the old brake pads into the caliper. Place a pry bar between the brake pads, then push the inner piston into the caliper body, this will allow room to install new pads.... Remove the old brake pads...Coat the brake pad pins and the new brake pads metal back plates with high-temperature grease.

Slip the new brake pads into the rear brake caliper, then push the brake pad pins halfway into the caliper. Slip the spring clips into place between the brake pads and the brake pad pins. Push the brake pad pins completely through the rear brake caliper. Push the hairpin clips back into the brake pad pin tips. Snap the brake pad cover onto the top of the rear brake caliper....

Pump the rear brake pedal until the pedal feels firm, indicating that the brake pads have closed around the brake rotor...No bleeding will be needed because the system was never opened - That's all there is to it...i hope this information is helpful & good luck with your bike.

When you bleed brakes make sure bleed nipple is pointing downwards and the whole caliper is upside down so the fluid runs through the whole system, each time i change pads on mine i have to do this for some reason. Hope that helps

hi, you could try lubricating the cable first with some lite oil, or wd40 or similar, are you sure it is the cable and not the brake shoe cam, try undoing the cable, push manualy on the arm from the rear brake drum, doing this will eliminate the cable being the possible cause, when you push on the lever on the rear brake drum with the cable undone from it, the arm should return freely when pushed or pulled, if it is seized at this point you will have to remove the rear wheel,remove the lever from the cam drift out cam from hub, and clean and lubricate before reasembly, when replacing the cable it is important you alow at least 10mm free play in travel, and check for free movment of wheel before use, also ensure you have enough travel to alow operation of rear brake light.

Have never seen any bike fitted with cam type pistons as per cars, should be a simple job.

there is nothing special about replacing the wear sensors. The tools that you will need are 7mm allen, 16mm 6 point socket, ratchet, T-50, large channel locks, and a keyed pad pusher for the rear calipers.

The rear pads are usualy harder than the front and the harder the pads the more wear there is on the rotors Unless the rotors were worn to the point of replacement they could have had them skimmed.Being soft doesnt make much sense.Have an 03 ba falcon and only replaced our rotors after doing 125000ks The expidition is a similar beast that used the same brake system.Get the rotors skimmed and go to a slightly softer pad to extend rotor life