Question about 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6

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Misfiring, stalling. idle surges. does not idle

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  • Ryan Beltran
    Ryan Beltran May 11, 2010

    misfiring, stalling. idle surges. does not idle. <- it cannot misfire if it doesn't idle.

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5 Answers

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Tabbycat gave a very good answer. The pulse sensor could be the problem. If the sensor checks out okay then it is time to look at the rest of the CDI ignition. Next would be the carbs. ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher at hand when working on carburetors.

Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.

FOR EACH
carb > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Also, sync the carbs such that the slides on all carbs move at the same exact instant when the throttle is slowly turned from idle speed.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

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If you've recently removed the timing cover,it is possible on installation ,as careful as you maybe , to knock the pulse sensor ,which is bolted to the cover . As expected This will cause the engine to misfire,cough and splutter and fart or the pulse coil could be faulty. Trace the wires back to the connector and measure ohms/resistance it should be around 248-372 ohms. Air gap is around 6mm.....Hope this helps in some way to solving/eliminating your problem...BIIIIIIIIIIIG Tone. : {) .Flabbycat

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

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Bad spark plugs

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

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Brought r6 back in from good run out,went out following week end misfired a 4K wouldnt go above 8K 56mphtop speed.All plugs have good spark.tested primary and secondary of HT cap spot on.Cleaned all carbs and jets.Fuel seems OK,Measured maximum resistance of throttle position sensor OK. Measured resistance range of throttle sensor not quite the readings but smoothly up and down ohmn meter manual said dont be put of by not spot on readings when doing this test.Feel likes only firing on 3 but all sparking any one help.

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

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I have a 93 Honda Aquatrax F-12X Jetski was just serviced for oil change May 09. I told the Honda Dealership it's been running rough not idiling good. Took it out on the water still running rough after oil change they stated couldn't find anything wrong but suggested I replace the spark plugs. I changed the spark plugs it ran fine all day until later that day at about 50 mph on the water it jerks you with a dead stop and sensor warning beeps. The new spark plugs look like the old ones I took out after a day of riding?? What is causing them to misfire or foul out? I notice there is more smoke from the jetski since oil change and black residue around housing in rear and underneath.

Thanks Cat

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

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1995. WHEN I START IT IDLES NORMAL BUT SURGES BUT IF I DONT TAKE OFF IT CLICKS AND IDLES MUCH FASTER BUT AFTER I AM ON THE ROAD IT RUNS GREAT NEED SOME HELP WHAT CAN I TRY


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EGR faults


1.6b) Symptoms of faulty EGR
Associated OBD2 error codes DTCs: P0400 - P0409; P1403 - P1409 other common codes can include 'multiple misfire P0300'

The EGR has two possible fault modes either it is 1) open when it should be closed or 2) closed when it should be open. (See also DPFE faults)

'Open' faults
  • Erratic idling: 'hunts' at idle with erratic engine performance when running. This is due to the air ingress through the split diaphragm or the EGR valve being left open, either event compromises the intake manifold vacuum and in turn this interferes with the ECU's ability to deliver accurate fuel to air ratio for a given engine speed.
  • Sudden engine stall: In addition to the rough idle, a hot running engine when quickly brought to idle (after the car comes to a halt at a junction) can stumble and then stall. The engine will hesitantly restart immediately: this is significant difference to Crank and Camsensor error.

'Closed' faults
  • Misfire and 'pinking': if the EGR is jammed closed or the exhaust feed pipe is blocked (with baked on carbon deposits) the engine runs lean and very hot, so hot in fact that the fuel air mix in the cylinder can spontaneously ignite causing a misfire. The misfire if pronounced can, in turn, be detected by the engine knock sensors (P0300) leading to a 'check engine light' warning and reduced engine speed limitations.
Inherently diesel engines create more soot in the exhaust and as a result blocked EGR assemblies are more common in diesels than petrol engines.
  • Burnt Exhaust Valves. Prolonged exposure to excessively high ignition temperatures brought about by a blocked EGR system can lead to exhaust valves being over heated to the extent that they become distorted and so no longer seat properly. Poorly seated valves prevent good compression.
  • Surging: A sticking EGR valve can lead to an effect of rhythmic surging a bit like the MAF fault, especially in turbo charged engines. Normally on a warmed up engine the vacuum from the inlet manifold opens the EGR. If the EGR fails to open promptly the turbo can be subject to a slight boost. Extra fuel/air mix is pushed into the inlet manifold as a result, increasing pressure (decreasing the vacuum). Without vacuum in the inlet manifold the EGR closes again but if sticky only does so slowly. This may allow inlet gases to flow through the EGR into the exhaust manifold for a split second. There is a time lag in the sequence of these events leading the engine to surge in cyclical manner.
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on Jul 15, 2011 | Mercedes-Benz E-Class Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When I start my odyssey it starts surging. I found a small rubber hose on the right side of the engine, but don't know where the other end of the hose goes....Help


WHAT COUNTY???????????????????????????????????
hot engine, cold or both?/// a key question
WHAT ENGINE: ( usa list , ONLY)
2.2 L F22B I4
2.2 L F22B6 I4
2.3 L F23A I4 2.3 L F23A7 I4
the fsm covers this. hose thing.... all hose can be followed,
unless its axle vents on 4wd cars. (they go no where, special)
is surging the only symtom.?
no engine stalls.?
lack of power in any gear or hills.
no misfiring?
no flooding.?
starts easy/?

ok what is surge, that it really is idle controls bad or out of comtrol
1: idle controls bad. (isc dead?)
2: or engine is running way too lean, and ISC cant keep a grip on idle.

easy huh?
and #3 misfiring so bad the idle controls fail.
are all fuses good?
is the CEL lamp glowing , then goes out running engine.
no , the scan it. or do the flash DTC codes trick.

a good tech ,first finds out if the engine holds closed loop status
hot. at idle, if not, he fixes that first.
as he/she knows that idle is the last thing to work right, in EFI.

one other way to get surge is air leaks (aka. vacuum leaks)
if the engine (unsaid option) is MAP based, it will race fast
with any vacuum leak, and it dont take much of a leak
to make the ISC idle controller go nuts.

so repost , hot/cold both questions
and actual RPM numbers. we need numbers
is the dash Tachometer missing. ????
and what engines in car.

all lean engines surge.
all ISC systems can surge if out of control , not all do this. just 1/2
if the ISC surges, it means its trying hard to gain back control.
this is called a software servo loop.
The ECU is programmed to hold rpm near say 800 RPM hot.
and is very digressive in that role.
I have a 91 car that will surge, with any vacuum leaks.
(by design) depends on which engine.

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same with lean or flooding. lost control
the ECU/pcm works very hard to keep idle right using its slave ISC.
did you connect a scan tool and scan for errors?

if the scan tool shows AFR perfect in closed loop at idle hot.
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AFR is perfect air fuel ratio mixture that all EFI do,.

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The car shakes when in idle and when you put it into gear and runs rough. What could be the problem?


do the following, it should make the problem better, but it will not cure it completely.
Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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My bmw 328i misfire?


If u don't have a check engine light try this procedure to fix it.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Feb 11, 2009 | 2003 BMW 325

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