Question about 1995 Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade

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FRONT RIGHT FORK LEAKING

After a couple of track days and stiffening up the damping one of my forks has started leaking, not much but enough to feel an out of balance front end. Can i just change the seals and oil or is there more to it ?

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No you can change the seal and the oil just make sure you measure the oil you remove and put the same amount back in

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

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How to harden the forks and rear shock


Both are adjustable. The forks have an adjustment screw. Press down on the front end while standing next to the bike. It should rebound fairly quick but it shouldn't start to go back down again on it's own (oscillates due to not enough damping). Adjust screws evenly on both forks (exact same amount) clockwise and repeat process mentioned until rebound is smooth and doesn't oscillate. The same applies to the rear but you have only one adjustment on the Ohlins reservoir for the monoshock assembly. Do the bounce test and adjust clockwise until the rebound feels firm and doesn't oscilllate. It should handle like a beast and wheelie much easier now.

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Can i stiffen up the tension in my front forks on my mgx dxr?


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What can be done to improve the forks so they are not so stiff for fire roading and light off roading.


First, use the owners manual and check the setting of the compression damping. Set the compression damping a bit lighter and try it out. This will make the forks feel less stiff, but the fork springs could still be too stiff for your weight. Make sure the rear air spring has enough air in it too, this can adversely effect handling.

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A couple of good suspension tuning shops are Enduro Engineering, Factory Connection. etc. Most of the good shops will require that you remove the forks and send them in for re-spring or re-valve work.

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This is the damping oil in the fork. Once it is all leaked out you will find it difficult to control the bike on bumpy roads. Get it checked ASAP. Repair is not very complicated since it requires replacement of the fork seals. I would recommend doing both forks at the same time. If one has failed the other is not far behind.

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My triple tree bearings nuts are not loose nor are my fork tube clamps. but i still feel like the fron wheel is tracking side to side. do you know what i mean? oh ya checked front axle its tight too.


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Handling badly very ridgid and unstable arond


i am guessing that you bought the bike secondhand,if so you will probably find that the preload on the front and rear suspension is set to hard,to adjust the rear(some bikes come with the wright tool,but not many)look to the top of the rear suspension shock you should see two locking nuts that go right around the shock,undo the top one(may need to use a large screwdriver and hammer)undo it till about 1/2 inch away from other nut then undo bottom nut and undo till it meets the other nut then sit on the bike and bounce your behind on the seat and see what it feels like it should be softer,repeat the sequence untill you get the suspension feeling the way you want(dont forget to screw the top nut down and lock it tight when you are done,the front forks should have an ajustment for preload,these are normally a simple screw in srew out adjustment,located on the top of each fork leg,screw in(to right) to stiffen up the suspension screw out(to left)to soften up i hope this helps,most ducatis have numerous adjustment for preload,rebound,and damping so what i would do is find a ducati dealer or some one who has a bike similar to yours and get them to run through the various settings and adjustments with you ,you will be surprised at the extent to which you can tune the bikes chassis and suspension to suit your riding style and even the types of road or race track you ride on,i can retune the suspension of my race bike as i have noted the settings for each track i race on and it is worth about 3seconds off my lap times...hope this helps

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1 Answer

Front fork seals on 1999 cbr 900 leaking


hello and welcome
with the cold weather these seals are very apt to show leakage especially with age. the rubber seals become harder in material and will leak. the cold just helps with that and is more apt to do so then.
there is no good product that will work on these and fix them well enough to where they wont leak again soon. the best fix is the get the seals replaced. as the temps warm the leaking may stop. but as another cold front comes the seals will leak again. this can possibley throw off the balance of fluid in the forks and can be damageing. so again definately reccomend getting the seals changed at the earliest conveinience. thank you.

Mar 19, 2009 | 1999 Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade

1 Answer

Fork Oil for ETV CAPONORD


front and rear. Panniers were full tankbag was full no topbox riding solo. THE BIKE originally shipped 20 weight oil for the forks. That was much to stiff for me. I talked with them and they suggested trying 15 weight and that 10 would probably be too soft. I tried the 15 weight and it was improved but still pretty harsh especially on small bumps. A friend with lots of experience related that he uses Silkolene 2.5 weight in his sport touring bikes (such as his Honda Hurricane and Ducati ST4). I installed 4 weight (actually aircraft hydraulic fluid, previously known to old Beemer riders as Aeroshell 4). I LOVE IT!! Compression damping is just fine. Rebound damping might be a tiny amount too little, but not enough to matter. Even dive under heavy braking is reasonable....much less than with the stock springs. ,It is difficult to get the right oil viscosity for everyone. Typically I ride 2up with wife, 400# plus gear, plus luggage, easily 440-450# total load. Even under those circunstances I may try W15 next time, but for sure not less. The Dutch WP is working with BMW, supplying the shocks and spring for the new K1200 S /R /PowerCup models. WP engineers (like Hyperpro) have designed a retrofit to the Front Springs for the Capo, as well as a rear shock. BTW, by coincidence those front springs are progressive too. They recommend from 5 to 20, depending on the typical bike loading. I suggest a look into the WP website, good stuff there. Here I am pasting some info from WP: ...the progressively wound Pro-Line front fork springs of WP Suspension play a fundamental role in the operation of your front fork. The springing and damping characteristics of your front fork can be fully optimised if the correct springs are used. Many motorcyclists know the problem of too soft front fork springs which can result in bottoming of the front fork when braking or too much movement and poor handling of the front fork during braking and acceleration. Original front fork springs can also be too hard which causes the front fork to shock the steering and the entire bike to feel uncomfortable on uneven road surfaces. With the WP Pro-Line front fork springs you are taking the first step towards optimum road holding at an attractive price. The springs, progressively wound from high-grade silicon chrome spring steel, ensure that your front fork will respond better (improved comfort), and react more controllable when compressed under braking (more stability, resulting in greater safety). In most cases motorcycle manufacturers use linear wound front fork springs which are often in the beginning but also at the end of the stroke, either to soft or to hard. Progressivity is lacking. With progressively wound WP springs you can solve this problem, once and for all. __________________ ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 Aprilia ETV 1000 Caponord

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