1998 suzuki intruder. there is no pressure when you depress the clutch lever tried to bleed system but lever will not build up any pressure. we diss asembled the clutch resevoir and cleand but still no luck?
I had this same problem...fix....You need to bleed the resevoir. To do this fill the resevoir and put the cap back on. Then pump the handle a couple times and hold it in and break open the line bolt on the resevior. BE SURE TO HAVE A RAG UNDER THE BOLT DUE TO DOT4 WILL EAT THE PAINT. Do this a couple times until you get pur fluid coming out. You should now have good pressure as long as there is no air in the rest of the system.
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Re: no pressure in the clutch system
Just a thought.....air will rise. If you put plenty of fluid in the clutch res... lock it down......and you put the bleeder valve higher than the reservoir....(tilt the wheel you are bleeding in the air) won't the air go to the top...........?????...just a back words way of thinking of it..........hmmm mtg
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Had this problem about a month ago when I replaced my clutch and brake pipes.
Ensure bike is in upright position and not on side stand. Cover your grips and tank due to fluid spillage.
Use slow motions and pump 10 times depressing the clutch and releasing it fully, before opening nipple. Use only dot 4 or 5 brake fluid. Try by first opening the bleeding nipple, depress clutch, close nipple, release clutch. Do this several times prior to standard bleeding procedure. In my case and I don't know if this was random, but the clutch master's seals collapsed when I removed the pressure in the pipe whilst replacing the clutch and brake pipes. Factory specs say you should replace the brake and clutch pipes every 2 years, so I used braided hoses, they last almost a lifetime in my opinion. It still stays a tedious job bleeding the clutch, so pack a can of patience. In my case I eventually got it right in a unconventional manner. I filled a bleeding bottle(small plastic coke bottle would work fine)with new fluid. I then opened the bleeding nipple (reservoir should be empty when doing this) and gently squeezed fluid through the nipple until it reached the reservoir. This is NOT a recommended procedure as you may damage your master's seal, but I was desperate. After reservoir is full, bleed clutch using standard operating procedure and with a bit of luck you will be having clutch. Hope this helps!
close bleeder pump clutch 3 or 4 times hold clutch in open bleeder close bleeder pump clutch lever 3 to 4 times hold clutch in open bleeder fluid will start to squirt out under pressure close bleeder let clutch lever out pump 3-4 times repeat untill you get pressure in lever hold lever while bleeding donot release while the bleeder is open
You still haven't got it bled yet? Where do you live, i will ride my bike over and show you. lol
Ok here we go, follow this procedure.
is a clutch slave cylinder that is located on the left side of the engine, behind a cover. You will see the clutch line going to it. There
is a bleeder valve there. It is a small brass piece that may have a little
rubber cap on it. They make bleeder tools that make the job much easier, but if
you do not have on here is the convetional way. It will take two of you. One
person pull the lever in & hold it in while the other opens, then closes the
bleeder. After you close it have the person working the lever, release it. Keep
repeating this until you start to get pressure & all the air bubbles are gone--- While doing this be sure to keep
the master cylinder full of fluid. Remember, to never release the clutch lever with the bleeder open while bleeding, if you do, it will sux air back in. I hope this helps & good luck with your bike.
You could change the fluid, but I'd pay more attention to bleeding the system a few times.
It also sounds like the clutch slave cylinder seals are worn/perished. You might need to look into having these replaced, as it could be allowing the clutch to seep fluid stopping the hydraulic (vacuum) affect.
Start at the master cylinder on the handlebars and crack the banjo bolt loose first. Bleed the line there, just like you would at the slave cylinder. Break the bolt loose about 1/4 turn while holding the lever in. Tighten the bolt back up and pump the lever again, hold it and break the bolt loose 1/4 turn. Keep doing this till you do not get air out of the system, just fluid, then move down the clutch line to the next fitting and bleed it there the same way. Work your way back down to the slave cylinder finally bleeding it at the bleeder valve. You should now have hydraulic pressure all the way through the system when you pull the lever. If you want to test it. wrap a rag around the rubber clutch line a few times and pinch it off with a pair of needle nose pliers. Now try to pull the lever. If it gets hard instantly, you don't have air in the lines. If it is hard then, and the clutch STILL doesn't work, you have other problems than air in the lines.
You may have a blocked clutch hose or a restricted outlet/leaking piston valve in the master cylinder. Remove the hose entirely and blow through it with compressed air. Good air flow means good hose. Now try the master cylinder (clutch lever), you should get a good flow of fluid with one press. If it barely releases anything, tear the cylinder down and check the outlet area and piston valving. It may need a rebuild kit or just replace the cylinder. Once you get the cylinder working, put the hose back and new fluid in the cylinder. work the lever a number of times, then bleed the system.
Some are hard to bleed without a pressure bleeder. They only cost abt $35 & are often quite helpful for the bike brake cylinders as well. I also have a vacuum bleeder that the line goes over the bleeder. Either should work fine, since these systems are so small just a little air in the system can make your clutch not work. If you dont have either, i would reccomend buying the vacuum bleeder first. Rick