How do i get the chain back on the bar??? - Husqvarna Garden

If the chain gets too loose it can come off the bar, you need to loosen the two hex nuts that clamp the bar in position then with a flat blade screwdriver turn the tension screw anticlockwise, the screw is in the middle of the slot in the bar between the two clamp nuts. You will need to wind it back a fair way to allow the chain to be put back into its guide slot on the bar, then just nip up the clamp nuts gently to stop the bar flopping about and tension the chain by turning the slotted adjuster screw clockwise until the chain is just right... you should be able to just spin the chain without too much friction and if you lift a link in the middle of the bar with your fingers it should just half lift out of the guide slot. The chain will loosen a little more as the chain heats up during use. Don't forget to fully tighten up the clamp nuts when finished. Always check that the chain is not getting too loose and take up the slack from time to time. Happy sawing !

Make sure the chainbrake ( if if fitted ) is off by pulling the hand guard fully back to the top handle, remove the securing nuts and remove the side cover, wind the chain adjuster back if it is in the crankcase, pull the bar fully back, now loop the loose chain off the tip of the bar and over the sprocket, re fit the new chain over the sprocket, and lay it around the guide bar, place the bar adjuster hole onto the adjuster pawl ( if it is in the crankcase ) refit the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the side cover make sure it fits into the hole in the bar, put the securing nuts back on finger tight, adjust the chain so as it fits snuggley around the bar, with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar to make sure it is seated correctly, re adjust if required, lift the bar nose up and fully tighten the securing nuts, after the first ten minutes of use re check the chain tention as there will be an initial stretch.

On the right side of the saw, where the chain disappears into the housing, there should be one or two nuts. These are what hold the Bar and Chain retainer plate on. Remove these two nuts, and the plate, the Bar, and the Chain will come off.

Now, just to put the chain Back on to the Bar, all you have to do is to LOOSEN these two nuts, and either right between them, or NEAR them is a FLAT-HEADED SCREW. Turn this screw to either LOOSEN, (retract) the Bar, or EXTEND the Bar. So, retact the bar, which loosens the chain, put the chain back on the bar, slowly extend the bar, by turning the screw, so that the chain gets tighter, then tighten back up the two nuts.

The chain should have a small amount of slack in it when you are finished. If you tighten it up too much, then it won't freely move, and will prematurely wear out your bar.

Good Luck.

The chain drive links may well be damaged now, it may need a new chain, however,if it has a chainbrake make sure this is off by pulling the hand guard fully back to the top handle,wind the chain adjuster fully back, remove the the side cover nut and remove the side cover, push the guide bar fully back, loop the chain over the drive sprocket, and lay it into the guide bar rails ( the cutters on the top bar rail should face away from the saw ), refit the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the cover make sure it aligns with the hole in the guide bar, fit the bar nut finger tight, adjust the chain so as it fit snuggly all round the bar, with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar to ensure it it is sitting in the sprocket and rails properly, re adjust the chain if it has come lose, now fully re tighten the bar nut. If you fit a new chain there will be an amount of initial stretch, so re tention after a few cuts.

Most saws are preety standard, pull the hand guard fully back to the top handle to ensure the brake is off, take away the cover nut/nuts, wind the chain adjuster fully back, now remove the side cover, loop the chain over the nose of the bar, and then loop it over the sprocket and off the saw, the bar will now lift away, to refit, place the bar back onto the bar bolts, push it fully back toward the sprocket, loop the chain over the sprocket and lay it around the bar ( the cutters on the top of the bar should be facing away from the saw ) if the adjuster is in the crankcase make sure it locates into the hole in the bar, now refit the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the side cover make sure it locates into the bar hole, refit the bar nut/nuts finger tight, adjust the chain so as it touches snuggly all around the bar, with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar to make sure it is located into the sprocket correctly, re adjust if required, now fully tighten the bar nut/nuts.

Start by making sure the chain brake is off, pull the hand guard fully back to the top handle, now remove the two 8mm nuts securing the side cover, screw the chain adjuster in the crankcase fully back toward the sprocket, assemble the guide bar over the guide bar bolts and slide it fully back toward the sprocket, now loop the chain over the sprocket and lay it inthe guide bar raiuls and around the guide bar nose, make sure the sharo endge of the cutters on the top of the guide bar are facing away from the machine ( as you loog at it, it rotates clockwise ) now align the hole in the guide bar with the adjuster pawl, re assemble the chainbrake side cover back onto the saw, and fit the bar nuts finger tight, adjust the chain adjuster so as the chain is a snug fit all the way around the guide bar, with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar manually, so as to make sure it is completly seated in the sprocket and bar rails, re tension if needed, hold the tip if the guide bar up and fully tighten the bar nuts.
Job done.

Set the chain brake to off, then remove the fasteners on the right side cover where the chain drives from. This will release the bar which will slide back toward the engine and allow the chain to be removed. Note the direction of the cutting edge of the teeth. Clean everything including the two small oil passages that run from the large holes in the bar out to the chain groove on each edge of the bar. When refitting a new chain, back off on the chain adjustment screw (CCW) a few turns to allow the cover to fit to the bar properly. Fit the chain over the clutch sprocket, then insert the bar to the engine. Work the chain over the bar, then pull the bar outward to tighten the chain. Install the cover and the fasteners finger tight. Make sure the cover fits the bar properly. Tighten the chain adjuster CW so that the chain pulls up to the lower bar edge, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Tighten the cover fasteners, then recheck the chain tension. The lower run of chain should be cutting as the chain moves toward the engine. Check the chain oiling by running the saw at speed with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after several moments. Hope this helps!

There's two 1/2 inch nuts on the side of the cover from which the bar protrudes.
Remove these nuts and the cover -- leave the bar loosely in place.
Look for a slot-head chain-tensioning screw (may be on front under the bar, or perhaps on the side).
Turn this tensioning screw counter clockwise -- you will notice a pin moving back towards the drive clutch -- this pin fits into a hole on the bar and is used to set the chain tension by pushing the bar away from the drive clutch.
Once it is loosened, the bar can be pulled closer to the drive clutch, allowing you to fit the chain back onto the bar -- be careful to align the drive teeth on the chain into the slots on the drive clutch.
When the chain is back in place, turn the tensioning screw clockwise to tighten the chain onto the bar.
Replace the cover and put the nuts back on only finger-tight.
Tighten the chain some more using the tensioning screw.
Tighten the 1/2 inch nuts fully.
Note: The chain needs to be quite tight -- lift it by a link and be sure it does not come out all the way from the bar.

Release the chain brake if equipped. Remove the drive end cover plate from the rear of the bar. Remove the bar and chain. Lay the chain out on a table or bench to inspect for sideways bending, breakage, or drive tooth damage. Inspect and clean the bar and it's oil passages in the drive end, particularly the small passages that run out to the chain groove from the large oil holes on each side. Inspect the drive sprocket for any tooth damage. Run the motor without the bar and chain for a few moments--oil should ooze out of a port on the side of the motor case where the bar fits to. If all ok, insert the bar into the space for it, pass the chain over the sprocket with the bottom run of teeth cutting toward you, and work the chain over the bar. Pull the bar outwards to tighten the chain, and fit the cover back in place (you may have to back off [CCW] the chain adjustment screw several turns). Fit clamp nut(s) (bolts) finger tight, then adjust the chain screw CW until the lower chain pulls up to the bar, but not so tight that the chain can't be moved by hand. Tighten the cover nuts and recheck chain tension. Make sure the chain is fully and carefully sharpened as a dull chain will quickly loosen due to heat and be thrown off again. Hope this helps!

On the chain saw there should be a panel held on by two screws or nuts where the bar and chain is attached. Remove the two screws or nuts and the panel and you will expose the chain and sprocket. Loop the chain around the sprocket and bar. Put the bar with the chain around the sprocket back on the saw, reinstall the cover with the two screws/nuts, but do not tighten too tight.(You will want to be able to move the bar with the chain.) Then pull the bar away from the saw to tighten the chain, once the chain it tight, then you will retighten the screws or nuts to lock the bar and chain in place. Be sure you lube the chain and bar with "Bar Oil" before starting to put the saw into service. Good Luck...I hope this helped Please rate me, Thanks