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Some of the air fuel mixture sprays away from the engine while idling.It's to the point now, the engine wont run with the air filter on.The air filter is soaked with fuel.Canyou offer help?
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Carburetor Adjustment for Chainsaws Carburetor adjustment is critical on chain saws ... These saws have what is called a "fixed jet" which is set from the factory.
Stihl chainsaw's have three carburetor adjustment screws (LA) Idle Speed screw - This ... When the engine is tested at the factory the carburetor is set to obtain a ...
The fuel/air mixture in any gasoline-powered engine is regulated by the carburetor, and the carburetor in a Stihl chainsaw is factory-adjusted to provide the best performance.... You'll find three adjustment screws for the carburetor, usually located under the air filter cover.
I had something similar a long time ago with my Stihl chainsaw. I removed the small carbeurator and found that the gas/ carb float was at times sticking in the open position allowing too much gas to flow into the piston cylinder. The spark and compression can theoretically burn so much fuel on each compression stroke of the piston and the residual ie; overflow of gas/oil mixture is forced out the muffler on the exhaust stroke. Keep in mind the engine is a two cycle stroke engine meaning it fires each time the piston compresses and therefore if it is the float sticking open it will seem like a great deal of raw fuel being forced out the muffler. I hope this will give you a starting point to look at. Good luck and hope you don't get discouraged because the Stihl product, especially the chainsaw is one of the finest produced and on the market today.
High idle is usually a sign of running too lean, or having an air leak around the carburetor mount, or even somewhere else on the machine. if turning the low mixture screw out half a turn or so doesn\'t help, I\'d start looking other places for a leak. Check things like the plastic plate the carbie mounts to (intake manifold) and all the gaskets associated with that area. Also, check your fuel lines aren\'t perished, they can cause air to suck up into the carbie and cause issues. If you still have no luck it\'s possible one of the main crank seals may have gone, causing air to suck in around the crankshaft. This is best left to a qualified small engine repairer to replace, as they can be dicky to get in there without damage. Hope that helps!
after some use the screen inside the muffler gets plugged with carbon and blocks the exhaust flow try and run it with out the muffler they are made to open to clean the screen off
First check your fuel filter. Its on the end of the pick up tube in the fuel tank. Could be clogged. this is a relatively easy and inexpensive place to start. Make sure the fuel supply isnt pinched anywhere along the way.
Could be a scored cylinder. A scored cylinder is common problem with all makes of chainsaws. If you dont take special care to keep the air filter clean and in perfect working condition, the wood chips and dust will enter the combustion chamber and score the cylinder walls, ruining the rings causing a loss of compression.
The piston could also have been damaged from running to lean of fuel to air mixture causing heat damage to the piston and cylinder.
Hope this was helpful. If so, gimme a thumbs up vote!
I'm not sure there are any "endorsed" tuning specs from Stihl as weather, temperature, fuel quality etc all contribute to engine performance.
Pictures of all types are all over the web.
As for the carb tuning procedure, maybe I can help?
Start with fresh fuel, all filters clean, and bar and chain installed. Also, fill the chain oil tank with bar/chain oil and VERIFY that the chain oiler works properly.
Initial fuel mixture settings (the H and L screws) should be 1.5 - 2 complete revolutions counter clockwise from lightly seated. Sight the carb's throttle plate and adjust idle screw counter clockwise until the plate stops moving.(Throttle closed completely.) Then go back clockwise 3 complete revolutions. This will produce an acceptable startup condition on a HEALTHY saw.
Clamp the bar in a STURDY bench vise and roll the chain with the shank of a screwdriver to verify it is clear. BE SAFE!
Choke the saw and pull the starter rope until the engine "burps".
NOTE: If no burp after 6 pulls, stop! Something is wrong.
After the burp, set choke to half and pull starter until it runs. The settings I gave should produce a slightly rich condition and a slightly high idle. (Chain will be in motion!)
Blip the throttle trigger and idle it down just enough to keep it running during the tune procedure.
Step 1) Using the "L" screw (closest to the engine), turn it clockwise until the engine smooths out or possibly increases RPM. Back it out slightly until the engine has a slight "LOPE" sound to it. (Like a drag car on nitro).
Step 2) Accelerate the engine to full throttle and go to the "H" screw (closest to the air filter) and slowly turn it clockwise and note the RPM increase. There will come a point when the saw will "Top-Out" and loose power. Not even enough power to turn an maintain empty chain's RPM! Go back counter clockwise to the edge of that point, and counter clockwise another fourth (1/4) revolution.
Step 3) Idle the saw back down. Again go to the "L" screw and repeat Step 1.
Step 4) Repeat Step 2.
Step 5) Idle the saw down until the chain stops moving completely. NOTE: Don't settle for a "crawling chain" condition. If the steps above are performed well and all else is healthy, you should be able to idle the engine down to a ridiculously low RPM and it will not shut off.
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