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What is the points gap on 1980 harley davidson shovelhead

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 41,689 Answers

Hi Anonymous, the thickness of a match book cover .018" Have nice day.

Posted on Jun 09, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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wd4ity
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SOURCE: manual engine harley davidson shovelhead

The book you need it either an OEM Harley-Davidson manual, part #99482-69 or a Chilton's M420 manual. Both are good manuals and readily available.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: 1972 shovelhead harley-davidson engine rebuilt

Thirty over is nothing. I just finished a rebuilt on a 1970 model and we went 0.050" over on it. It was already at 30 over and the pistons scored.

Anyway, don't use one of these cheap Chinese made bendix's. Get an ACCEL. They may be made in China but they're better. You can't get good Shovelhead parts anymore.

Now, before you put the outer primary back on, use your hand and operate the fork that shifts the bendix into engagement with the ring gear. Does it engage like it's supposed to. You'll probably have to turn it just a bit. Now, do it again with the outer primary on. Does it still engage smoothly?

Now, here's the cause of most starter grinding problems on a shovel. The starter, ring gear, and outer primary are all out of alignment. The starter housing, the one with the big gear in it is supposed to have alignment pins in it as well as the outer primary. These pins are to ensure that the starter drive and the ring gear are properly aligned with each other. With the starter and outer primary on, you should be able to pull on the plunger of the solenoid and the starter drive engage fully and smoothly. Also don't forget the large brass washer. This keeps the drive from going too far.

If you're worried about low voltage, take the battery to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test the battery. If it drops below 10 volts, buy a new battery.

Posted on Aug 18, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: trying to find correct method

If your Shovelhead has solid lifters, you set them exactly like you would set the tappets on an Ironhead Sportster. With the engine stone cold, Bring either piston to top dead center ON THE COMPRESSION stroke. Both valves on that cylinder should be closed and the tappets on the heel of the cam at this point. Now, adjust the pushrods longer until you can no longer turn them with your fingertips. Now, back them back down until you can barely spin them with your fingers. Lock the locknuts down. Then bring the other cylinder to TDC COMPRESSION STROKE and adjust those pushrods.

You are adjusting for Zero backlash just like on an Ironhead Sporty. As the engine heats and the cylinders and head expand, they do so away from the cases which gives you more backlash the hotter they get. If you get the pushrods too tight, when the engine cools down, they'll hold the valve open just slightly making the engine difficult to get started.

Now, if you have hydraulic tappets, with the engine cold, back the pushrods off until they are loose. Bring them back down to zero backlash and then come down four additional turns and lock the locknut. Wait until the tappet bleeds down and you can spin the pushrod before you turn the engine.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: How to remove and replace a starter on a FXWG wide

To remove the starter from your Shovelhead, first disconnect the battery and take it out of the battery tray. Remove the battery tray, two bolts that bolt to the oil tank and the rubber mounts. Take the battery cable off the starter motor and take the bracket that supports the rear of the starter motor off. The bracket is bolted to the transmission and the rear of the starter motor. Take the remaining long bolt out of the starter. Work the starer out of the starter drive housing. Do not allow the starter motor to come apart as the two long slender bolts that you removed also hold the sections of the motor together. The same when you install the new motor. It will come apart and unless you've got some experience in getting the brush holder back on the armature, it can be a problem. Don't let the motor come apart.

http://www.bikebandit.com/1980-harley-davidson-flh1200/o/m775#sch183316

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Aug 30, 2011

Testimonial: "Thanks, based on the research I did last night I am sure the information you posted is correct to remove the starter. Thanks E"

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To remove the starter from your Shovelhead, first disconnect the battery and take it out of the battery tray. Remove the battery tray, two bolts that bolt to the oil tank and the rubber mounts. Take the battery cable off the starter motor and take the bracket that supports the rear of the starter motor off. The bracket is bolted to the transmission and the rear of the starter motor. Take the remaining long bolt out of the starter. Work the starer out of the starter drive housing. Do not allow the starter motor to come apart as the two long slender bolts that you removed also hold the sections of the motor together. The same when you install the new motor. It will come apart and unless you've got some experience in getting the brush holder back on the armature, it can be a problem. Don't let the motor come apart.

http://www.bikebandit.com/1980-harley-davidson-flh1200/o/m775#sch183316

Good Luck
Steve

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I just want to know what model my 1980 Shovelhead was brand new. The serial number starts with 7G. It has a blacked out motor like the low rider and sturgis. Someone put after market wide glide trees on it...


It' sounds like you've got an FXEF, the first Fat Bob bikes. To know for sure, you need to go by the frame number. Got to any site that list the "harley alphabet" to decode your frame VIN number. I'm pretty sure the "7G" designation on the engine indicates the 80" engine that was standard from 1980 on. The 80" engine was available prior to 1980 through special order only. The serial number (last five digits or so) should match the last five digits on your frame.

Good Luck
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