Question about 2003 Victory Vegas

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2003 victory vegas electrical problems

Tail lights, brake lights, turn signals, only work sporadically.

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  • 39 Answers

You probably have a short in the wiring somewhere.

Posted on Jul 28, 2013

  • studdmuff14
    studdmuff14 Jul 28, 2013

    You probably have a short in the wiring somewhere.

×

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SOURCE: How to remove seat and get access to battery for

Find a key hole to fit your ignition key around LH or near end of seat b4 tail light, insert key and twist 1/4 turn which ever way it release a seat latch..

Posted on Apr 13, 2010

taran_2005
  • 10515 Answers

SOURCE: How do I replace the

Hi,

First things first
Probably your cable broke at the clutch handle as mine did so it makes the job a little easier.
Remove the side cover over the battery box.
Slide the old cable out of the sheath and remove the ½ in nut from the cable mount below the battery. You will not need this nut again as it comes on the new cable if it’s a victory cable
Remove the side cover from the fuse block side of the bike.
Behind and to the front about a half inch you will see a cable bracket with a 10mm nut.
Remove this nut and set it where you will not lose it, You will need it
Remove the seat and set the bolts aside.
Place a protector cloth or whatever you have to not allow the front of the tank to hit the forks.
Remove the rear fuel tank bolt.
Lift the tank and block it with something that will hold it up at least 2 inches.
I used a 3 in stud with nuts on both ends and washers in the hole the tank bolt was in.
You can completely remove the tank if you like but I used a shortcut.
Take a 3 foot piece of shrink tube and shrink one end on the old cable after you place it on the end of the cable. (most hobby electrical supplies have this)
Spray wd40 on the outside of the cable and slide it out from the rear of the tank with the shrink tube in place until the shrink tube is out at least a foot on both ends.
Cut the shrink tube after you get it this far beyond where it is not heated.
Place the new cable in the shrink tube and shrink it again over just the end of the sheath.
Lube it with wd40 for about a foot of the cable and slide it back the same path the old cable was removed using the shrink tube on the other end to guide it.
Now remove the nut on the bottom of the clutch handle and slide the handle out, careful of the spacers on the top and bottom of the handle.
You will see a barrel connector for the end of the cable still in the handle slide it out and remove the broken cable end.
Clean it and apply whatever grease you chose before reinstalling it on the new cable.
(I used synthetic brake caliper lube as it is more resistant to washing out)
Install the lower end of the cable and tighten the retaining nut on the lower bracket.
This nut is the only difficult part of this job. I used a crowsfoot socket to tighten it
Make sure your adjuster is all the way in on the cable behind the rear cylinder head before you go any further.
Reinstall the retainer bracket you should have removed from the old cable with the 10mm nut.
Install the cable in the handle and slide it in the clutch perch on the handle bars with the spacers on the top and bottom and put the bolt in and tighten the nut.
Remove the support for the tank and reinstall the bolt.
Adjust the clutch cable until you have 1/16 to 3/32 in play at the handle and tighten the adjusters.
Reinstall the seat and side covers and ride the bike to allow the cable to seat and check the adjustment.
It easy and it only took me about a hour for the whole job

Good Luck!!

Thanks!!

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

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