Question about Motorcycles
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello Mike...If the rear cylinders aren't firing I would start by checking for defective plug wires. Visual, for cracks and with an ohm meter for resistance. Test your coils, same principal, test to see if their is power to the coils. Your bike has a TCI box thats located in a not so good spot....that really takes abuse. This is "brain" a circuit board. It gets hot, cools down, and moisture inside is the result, over the years it finally gives up. The voltage to the coils travels through the TCI. If you aren't getting 12 volts, then corrosion, faulty circuit, leaking capicitors inside the "box" are at fault. I have heard of some riders opening the TCI, letting the sun dry it out and remounting in a different location, I have replaced several, on the early viragos. They have been discontinued. i found several on ebay, also i know a biker that can repair solder these, if needed.
Posted on May 13, 2009
There is a tiny switch at the clutch lever housing assembly, the wires that are on tht switch may hve been distrubed unknowingly whilst you were refitting the cable.
Not bad too if you can check the switch which has a tiny protusion towards the clutch lever, it may probabley need a little adjusting or cleaning,spray some WD40 to it.
To access it from the lever side , it would be best to remove the clutch lever.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
check for a bad float. a float with a hole in it will 'sink' and thus, not turn the gas supply off when required.
Let me know what you find.
Posted on Sep 22, 2009
SOURCE: how do i charge battery
First, I should explain the difference between most motorcycle batteries and the car batteries that people are more familiar with.
A car battery is usually a "lead-acid" battery, a design largely unchanged, except for the composition of the lead plates, since the turn of the century. The battery is composed of alternating plates of lead and lead dioxide in an acid bath. Adding plates increases the electrical capacity, dividing groups of plates into "cells" increases the voltage available. It's a very basic battery that has worked in stationary and vehicular applications for centuries.
A motorcycle battery is usually an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery, differing from the car battery in only one respect; the space between the plates is filled by a porous, fiberglass-like material that has been saturated by acid. The advantage of the AGM battery is that it is less susceptible to damage from the increased vibration experienced in a motorcycle or high-performance car.
New motorcycle owners are frequently tempted to use the same battery charger they're accustomed to hooking up to the family sedan, but this can, and usually does, cause premature failure of the battery. Because the motorcycle battery is smaller, it requires less current to charge it, and the excess current generates heat. Because the acid does not circulate between the plates of the battery and distribute the heat and gas generated during charging, the battery heats much more rapidly than the car battery. Heat interferes with the chemical processes the battery performs during the charging cycle, and may cause plates to bend, buckle or crack.
Now, you've probably seen "battery tenders" advertised in motorcycle magazines, at Radio Shack, in Walmart and Sears. This is what you should be using - look for a MAXIMUM charge rate of 2 amperes/hour (it's typically described as "amps"), and a reduced "trickle" charge rate (usually automatic) of 1/4 to 1/2 "amp".
To get to the battery, look under the operator's seat (either side) 1"-2" behind the back of the fuel tank; you'll see a nut holding a threaded shaft into tabs protruding from the frame. Loosen and remove the nuts on both sides, lift the seat up until the threaded shafts are completely free of the tabs, then move the seat straight forward. That will free a catch, molded into the underside of the seat, from a loop in the frame that holds the back of the seat down and keeps the seat from moving side-to-side. The seat may then moved out of the way.
Now you will see the battery in the frame; hook the red lead of the battery tender to the battery terminal with a red insulated boot over it, and hook the black lead of the tender to the opposite battery terminal. The battery tender may be left connected for days, weeks or months at a time, but unless the bike is well protected from the weather, it should probably be disconnected after 16-24 hours and the seat reinstalled.
Reinstallation of the seat is the in reverse order of its' removal (above): there is a specification for the nuts - 5 ft.-lbs. (7 nm) - but it's usually sufficient to tighten the nuts snugly on both sides.
Posted on Aug 07, 2010
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