Question about Yamaha YZF-R6 Motorcycles

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Wire cut Will a cut tail-light wire prevent the bike from starting? I downed my 2012 r6, and the only apparent internal damage is the wiring that leads to the brake light. The bike will not start.

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  • 12 Answers

Yes it won't start if no lights are on upon pre cranking, especially the headlights. if you fix that wire and still no start and all lights are on try checking the kick stand switch and if all that don't work wire harness fried. I been there. 2003 R1

Posted on Jul 28, 2013

  • constantine Jul 28, 2013

    I fixed the wires, and my baby breathes again! Thank you for the input

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: Tail chop performed, brake light doesn't work

Hi,

Offhand, in most bikes, the tailight and the brake light are integrated in a single bulb with a common ground. This would translate then into a 3wire arrangement. The brighter of the filaments is for the brake while the dimmer of the two is for the park/running/tail light. To my knowledge, either the tail or brake lights do not use a relay, they are wired straightforward. Your described problem all points to a mis-connection, possibly the ground wire. The easiest approach would be to identify the ground wire. With ignition switch off, all light switches off, identify the ground wire with the use of a continuity tester (VOM/DVM). Disconnect the wires to the harness, on the harness, it would be the wire with nearly 0 resistance against any exposed metal or the chassis. On the wires going to the tailight assy, it wold be the wire that measures 0 ohms to the metal socket/housing of the bulb.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

rselvy
  • 83 Answers

SOURCE: Rear cylinder not firing

The first thing I would do is replace the spark plugs again. You can foul a plug and it will cause you more problems than you can ever imagine. I see you have done all the logical things that I would recommend but I did not see you have replaced the plugs after the 200 miles. You would be surprised at how many times a $2.00 part can cause fits beyond belief.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I'm installing a new rear tail light with turn

use a light pen that you can get from auto parts store to find the hot wires for l and r sides

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

CUTTER4LIFE
  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: Wiring diagram for a chopped '82 Yamaha

CHECK THIS SITE OUT ITS RIGHT UP YOUR ALLEY
http://viragotechforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=6563&highlight=geo+wiring+cycom

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

brian_carr60
  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: I own a honda steed 600 v twin. the side stand

Dont know what the filter got to do with it, but side stand switches are normally closed when retracted, simply wiring the two ends together will give continuity till you get around to repairing the wires which are located on the stand pivot arm, lay bike over and look under, likelihood is wires are damaged around swinging arm area, so you must connect wires prior to break and insulate. PS, disconect battery first.

Posted on Sep 15, 2009

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Depending on the make/model of your bike, there might be a "kickstand" switch (which prevents you riding off with your kickstand down) sometimes this can be faulty (or broken from a fall over) and prevent the bike from starting. I would check (bypass the switch) usually located near where the kickstand attaches to the frame, to see if the bike starts with the switch bypassed. If it does, replace (or remove) the switch. Depending on which side the bike fell, you might have damaged the kill switch (generally located on the right bar/clip-on). Basically carefully inspect the side of the bike that it fell on, look for any obvious signs of damage and then meticulously inspect that area for loose/broken wires/connectors. Do all the lights, instrument panel light up when the key is turned on? Check the battery connections. There are numerous possibilities, but use standard troubleshooting methodologies and you should be able to find or narrow down the problem. For future reference I think you were probably referring to the kickstand switch as opposed to to a "lean angle cut off" switch, which would be very dangerous to have on a motorcycle. Anyway, if you want/need more help. Post some more details such as; make/model/year, side it fell on, do the electrics (lights, turn signals, brake light, speedometer, tach etc.) work (or which don't & under what circumstances), does the started motor turn etc. etc. etc. Good luck.

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Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light constant or flashing, will or will not start, turns over or not conditions varies from the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work or event IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying bike down/crashes, rainstorms/bike washings just before EFI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
6. Check for generated fault codes.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-how-tos/98666-09-r6-check-engine-light.html
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Why wont my r6 start?


Just because the wires are still connected, doesn't mean they are intact or that the switches they are connected to are working. If the bike does nothing, it would indicate that the problem is most likely with the Kill switch. Check all the wiring in that region and make sure the switch still works.

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1 Answer

Blikers only work with running lights off


You have the tail light you just installed wired wrong or if the new tail light is a LED tail light your looking at the LED's possibly not drawing enough power to make the flasher work. change the flasher to a LED specific one.

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1 Answer

Engine management light on as soon as it starts speedo not working would that make it flash ??? checked all other oils any idears to ceck something


Hi, Darylr125, it should be noted that the reasons your EFI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying bike down/crashes, rainstorms/bike washings just before EFI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. For more information about your issue please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

I have an 2006 R6. every once and a while my engine light will come on and i will loose thorttle. i turn off the bike and restart and the problem is gone


Hi, Ryan it should be noted that the reasons EFI lights constant or flashing, will or will not start, turns over or not conditions varies from the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work or event IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying bike down/crashes, rainstorms/bike washings just before EFI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/148456-r6-throttle-input-problem.html
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/162049-check-engine-light-no-throttle-response.html
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1 Answer

Integrated tail problem


firstly ground them two wires and see what happens

you have got something screwed up if you gotta take fuses out to get stuff to work.

i find it easy if i draw what i have on paper first. you should have 3 wires for tail and 2 each for turns. those maybe 3 blacks, 1 green, 1 brown, 1 blue, 1 yellow.

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

you can get a free download service manual here it will have the correct wiring diagrams for your bike. it shoudl help

Mar 27, 2009 | 2005 Yamaha YZF-R6

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