Question about 1983 Honda GL 1100 Innerstate Gold Wing

1 Answer

83 gl1100 rear tire rubbing ,140/90/16 tire size didnt rub before,,just replaced bearings, ,just cant tighten axle nut to specs tire pulls to right evrytime,help

1983 Honda GL 1100 Gold Wing Share this Page Troubleshooting & Support for

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  • Honda Expert
  • 120 Answers

I would suggest you have the spacers riound the wrong way check out here
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/
or www.goldwingdocs.com

Posted on Aug 14, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: how do hook up a battery for a 1981 gl 1100 gold

The battery nox is located behind the side cover, once removed two main wires should be visable, with what they call electrical eyes at the end of the wire. These wires are generally thicker than the rest in your electrical system, at least 4mm thick.
The posistive terminal on the battery connects to the red wire which should be running to your starter solinoid. The negative terminal on battery sometimes has more than one wirer connected to it depending on how many other mechanics have been fiddling with the bike, but generally these extra "earths" are fine, but your main Black wire runs down onto the motor.
MRH Motorcycles, RSA

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

wayneman01
  • 301 Answers

SOURCE: whats the firing order for 83 honda gold wing 1100

The firing order is: 1-3-2-4.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

heimlich
  • 1978 Answers

SOURCE: how do I remove the

Center stand the bike,loosen the rear axel nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling

Posted on Sep 05, 2010

  • 298 Answers

SOURCE: LOOKING FOR PISTON SPECS ON

Try the wiesco piston web site they have not only the piston you need but list all the specifications along with a picture of your piston

Posted on Dec 01, 2010

  • 198 Answers

SOURCE: 1983 honda gold wing 1100 ,120,000 klm,runs great

If cluch is slipping or if that is origanal clutch,Id say now is time to change it.Not knowing the history of the bike leaves a lot of variables.To test clutch for slippage,place bike in first gear.Hold front brake firmly keep feet on floor give a little gas and let out on clutch slowly if bike dosent stall out quickly and you feel slippage or your to point where clutch is fully released and bike dosent stall your clutch is shot.You dont want bike to idle but you dont want to open up throttle all the way as you could end up loosing controll of bike.Or if clutch dosent slip you will do a nice burnout....be carefull and ride safe.Good Luck ....Brian

Posted on May 09, 2011

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My 99 accord ex is still making a squeaking noise when turning right sounds like metal hitting metal just replaced axle on that side passenger.


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Jeep grand cherokee hums after replacing ball joints


look on the shaft of the drive axles about where they go into the axle tubes. Do you see a rubber grommet looking piece on the drive axle?

If so spray some penetrating lube on that area and then drive it. If the noise is gone it is those things rubbing.

Otherwise are the front tires cupped on the inner or outer tread? if so rotate the tires and see if the noise moves to the rear.

It might not hurt to double check the backing plates to make sure they are not rubbing. Along with that make sure it is not the brake indicators on the brake pads rubbing.

If nothing else you will need to get all four wheels off the ground and run it in drive to see if you can isolate the noise that way.

Feb 05, 2012 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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How to install rear struts on a 1999 llexus


selectachapter.gif

Lexus Car ES, IS, LS 1998-06
Coil Spring Rear Suspension

Print


Hub & Bearings

Adjustment
Check the backlash in bearing shaft direction and the axle hub deviation. Maximum for backlash should be 0.0020 in. (0.05mm) and for axle hub deviation 0.020 in. (0.05mm).

7923lgb6.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Checking wheel bearings for excessive play


NOTE The rear wheel bearings are non-adjustable. If the wheel bearing is out of specifications, replace the wheel bearing.
Removal & Installation

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Rear tire and wheel assembly Rear stabilizer link Rear axle shaft nut Rear disc brake caliper and disc Speed sensor Parking brake assembly at the wheel hub No. 1 and 2 upper control arm assembly No. 1 and 2 rear suspension arm assembly Toe control link Rear axle from hub assembly using a plastic hammer No. 2 rear wheel bearing dust deflector using a screwdriver 4 bolts and rear axle hub and bearing assembly from the axle carrier assembly

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    Hub on the carrier and tighten the bolts to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) No. 2 rear wheel bearing dust deflector using a screwdriver Rear axle into hub assembly No. 1 and 2 upper control arm assembly. Torque the new nut to the No. 2 rear upper control arm to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). Temporarily tighten the No. 1 arm bolt. No. 1 and 2 rear suspension arm assembly. Temporarily tighten. Toe control link. Torque new nut to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). Rear stabilizer link. Torque to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Parking brake assembly at the wheel hub Rear speed sensor Rear axle shaft nut. Torque to 214 ft. Lbs. (290 Nm) and stake the nut with a chisel and hammer. Rear brake disc and disc brake caliper
  2. Adjust the parking brake.
  3. Stabilize the suspension as follows :
    1. Install the wheel(s).
    2. Lower the vehicle and bounce it up and down several times to stabilize the rear suspension.
    3. Raise the vehicle.
    4. Remove the wheel.
    5. Jack up the rear lower suspension armplacing a wood block in between. Apply a load to the suspension so that the lower suspension arm is plkaced in a horizontal position.

  4. Fully tighten the No. 1 rear upper control arm assembly to 119 ft. lbs. (161 Nm).
  5. Fully tighten the No. 1 rear suspension arm assembly to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  6. Fully tighten the No. 2 rear suspension arm assembly to 119 ft. lbs. (161 Nm).

    Rear tire and wheel assembly

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE If it is necessary to replace the hub or bearing, replace the components as an assembly.


    Rear tire and wheel assembly If equipped with rear disc brakes, the caliper mounting bolts. Leave the brake line connected and suspend the assembly out of the way. Brake rotor or drum 4 bolts and pull off the rear axle hub O-ring

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    Hub on the carrier and tighten the bolts to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm) Rotor or drum Caliper, f equipped with rear disc brakes and tighten the bolts to 34 ft. lbs. (64 Nm) Wheel

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. If equipped with air suspension, move the height control switch in the trunk area to the OFF position.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable Rear wheel(s) Height control sensor link from the lower control arm Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) speed sensor and wiring harness Brake caliper bracket from the rear axle carrier by removing the 2 bolts. Support the caliper with a piece of wire. Brake rotor Parking brake shoes and cable Cotter pin, lock cap and the nut holding the halfshaft to the rear axle Suspension member brace by removing the 2 bolts Halfshaft bolts and washers Halfshaft from the vehicle Strut rod
  4. Place matchmarks on the adjusting cam and body for the No. 1 control arm.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Nut and adjusting cam Nut on the axle carrier side of the No. 1 lower control arm Separate the control arm from the axle carrier No. 1 lower control arm Stabilizer bar link from the No. 2 lower control arm.
  6. Place matchmarks on the adjusting cam and body.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Nut and adjusting cam from the No. 2 lower control arm Nut and bolt holding the No. 2 lower control arm to the axle carrier No. 2 control arm from the vehicle Nut and bolt on the lower side of the strut assembly 2 upper control arm set nuts and bolts Axle carrier with the upper control arm
  8. Secure the axle carrier in a vise.
  9. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Nut holding the upper control arm to the axle carrier and remove the control arm Dust deflector. Use a suitable prytool. Oil seal

    0996b43f802092da.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Removing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430

  10. Remove the 2 bolts and nuts and shift the backing the plate towards the hub side (outside).
  11. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Axle hub

    0996b43f802092db.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Removing the axle hub from the axle carrier-LS 430
    Backing plate. Inner race (outside) from the axle hub

    0996b43f802092dc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Removing the inner race (outside) from the axle hub-LS 430
    Oil seal (outer) from the axle

    0996b43f802092dd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Removing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
    Snapring from inside the axle housing Bearing from the axle housing


To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    New bearing to the axle housing Snapring to the axle carrier, using snapring pliers New outer oil seal. Coat the oil seal lip with multipurpose grease.

    0996b43f802092de.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Installing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
    Backing plate to the axle housing. Do NOT install the bolts or nuts at this time. Inner race (inside) to the axle housing Axle hub to the axle housing Backing plate in position. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). New oil seal (inner) to the axle housing. Coat the oil seal lip with multipurpose grease.

    0996b43f802092e0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Installing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430
    New dust deflector. Be sure to align the hose for the ABS speed sensor in the dust deflector and axle carrier. Upper control arm to the axle carrier by installing the nut. Tighten the nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). Axle carrier and upper control arm to the vehicle as an assembly 2 upper control arm set bolts and tighten the bolts to 121 ft. lbs. (164 Nm) Bolt and nut holding the strut to the axle carrier. Tighten to 101 ft. lbs. (137 Nm). Bolt and nut connecting the No. 2 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the bolt to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm). Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 2 lower control arm to the body. Align the adjusting cam marks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Stabilizer bar link to the No. 2 lower control arm and tighten the nut to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier and body. Install the nut to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the nut to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the body. Align the matchmarks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Strut rod to the axle carrier and body. Install the bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the body. Tighten to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the axle carrier. Tighten to 136 ft. lbs. (184 Nm) Parking brake shoes and cable Outboard joint side of the halfshaft and align the matchmarks on the side gear shaft and the halfshaft. Coat the threads with clean oil and install the hexagon bolts. Tighten bolts to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). Suspension member brace with the 2 bolts. Tighten the 2 bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Nut to hold the halfshaft to the rear axle. Tighten the nut to 213 ft. lbs. (289 Nm). Lock cap and cotter pin Brake disc to the axle hub with the matchmarks aligned. Install the 2 screws and tighten the screws to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Brake caliper to the vehicle and install the 2 bolts. Tighten the bolts to 77 ft. lbs. (104 Nm). ABS speed sensor and wiring harness Height control sensor link with the matchmarks aligned. Tighten the nut to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Rear wheel(s) Negative battery cable

  2. Lower the vehicle and turn ON the air suspension switch.



0996b43f80207fdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Exploded view rear carrier assembly, hub and bearing-

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    WARNING Be careful not to damage the boot and ABS sensor


    Rear wheel(s) Height control sensor link from the lower control arm Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) speed sensor and wiring harness Brake caliper bracket from the rear axle carrier by removing the 2 bolts. Support the caliper with a piece of wire. Brake rotor Parking brake shoes and cable Toe control link Separate upper control arm assembly Shock absorber from axle carrier Suspension arms No 1 and 2 from axle carrier Rear axle from carrier


    Wheel bearing dust deflector 4 bolts and axle & bearing hub assembly

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    4 bolts and axle & bearing assembly. Tighten to 48 ft. lbs (65 Nm) Rear wheel bearing dust deflector Rear drive axle Upper control arm. Temporarily tighten No 2 and No 1 suspension arms. Tighten to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) Shock absorber. Temporarily tighten Toe control link. Tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) Fully tighten upper control arm. Tighten to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) Height control sensor Parking brake shoes and cable Speed sensor Rear disc brake caliper Fully tighten shock with new nut to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) Rear tire
  2. Inspect and adjust rear wheel alignment
  3. Check ABS speed sensor signal

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Rear wheel Wheel speed sensor Axle halfshaft Brake caliper and rotor Parking brake shoes Parking brake cable No. 1 lower suspension arm bolt No. 2 lower suspension arm bolt Toe control link Upper ball joint Axle carrier from the vehicle
  3. Press the hub out of the wheel bearing, then remove the backing plate.
  4. Remove the snapring, then press the wheel bearing out of the axle carrier.

To install:

NOTE Use a new toe control link nut for assembly.
  1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, while using the following torque values:

    Backing plate bolts: 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm) No. 1 lower suspension arm bolt: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) No. 2 lower suspension arm bolt: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm) Toe control link nut: 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm) Upper ball joint nut: 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) Brake caliper support bolts: 77 ft. lbs. (104 Nm) Rear wheel lug nuts: 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm)



0996b43f80208026.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Exploded view rear Axle carrier and hub assembly-ES 330

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Rear tire and wheel assembly Brake caliper support bracket Brake rotor Skid control sensor wire 4 bolts and rear hub and bearing assembly Skid control sensor

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    NOTE Inspect bearing back lash and hub deviation


    Skid control sensor Rear axle hub and bearing assembly with 4 bolts. Tighten to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm) Skid control sensor wire


    Rear disc Rear disc brake caliper assembly. Tighten to 46 ft. lbs (62 Nm) Flexible brake hose Rear tire and wheel
  2. inspect and adjust rear wheel alignment
  3. Check ABS speed sensor signal


Stabilizer Bar

Removal & Installation

  1. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. Remove the 2 nuts and left stabilizer bar link. If the ball joint turns together with the nut, use a hexagon wrench (5 mm) to hold the stud. Repeat for the right side.
  3. Remove the 8 bolts, 2 No. 1 brackets and 2 bushings. Two types of bolts are used, so make sure the correct bolts are installed.
  4. Remove the stabilizer bar.

To install:
  1. Install the stabilizer bar.
  2. Install the bushing and bracket with the 2 bolts and tighten to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). Install the bushing to the inner side of the bushing stopper on the stabilizer bar.
  3. Connect the stabilizer bar links and tighten the nuts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm). Repeat for the right side.
  4. Install the rear wheels.
  5. Inspect and adjust rear wheel alignment.


Strut & Coil Spring

Removal & Installation

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    CAUTION Do NOT remove the center nut to the strut at this time. The spring on the strut is under high pressure and can cause serious injury.


    No. 2 luggage compartment trim cover Left and right deck side trim box Rear luggage compartment trim cover Front luggage compartment trim cover Left and right side luggage compartment trim covers Rear wheel Rear wheel fender liner No. 2 differential support protector Rear suspension member brace Rear No. 2 lower control arm Mounting bolts and strut assembly
  3. Secure the strut in a vise.
  4. Compress the coil spring
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Upper strut retaining nut Suspension support Upper insulator Bumper Coil spring Insulator

Dec 26, 2011 | 1999 Lexus ES 300

3 Answers

Brand new bike. when gliding only there is a humming/vibration in rear end wheel or near the pedals


This could be a result of having the gears not aligned, i.e. low front to low rear or vice versa causing some friction. Also the wheel may not be in the guide properly, perhaps askew, so a simple realignment would cure it.
Good Luck,
Joe

Aug 29, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT that has started to make a bad noise when the stairing wheel is turned and when backing up , it feels if the parking brake is on, took it to the dealer they had for a day...


sounds like tire rub issue, as inflating tire solved the issue for a short while possibly that the tires placed on vehicle maybe incorrect size width/height, check tire size, look in wheel well for areas of possible rubbing.

Dec 22, 2010 | 2002 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

The bike makes a loud, rubbing noise. Any ideas?


The most common problem that causes a loud rubbing sound is a tire, usually the back tire, rubbing on the frame, and you can usually see exactly where it is rubbing. Brakes can rub too, but they usually are not that loud, so let's assume it is the tire. This happens when the rear axle wasn't tight enough, and when you pedal hard or hit a pothole, it can make the axle pivot in the slots it fits in, and this lets the tire to rub on the frame, usually on the front part of the rear tire.
Solution: For this kind of work, I usually flip the bike upside down on an old piece of carpet, etc. so it is sitting on the seat and handlebars with the front wheel pointing straight ahead. There are two common methods to secure the axle:
1. Two pretty good sized nuts, one on each side. Find a wrench that fits just right. I prefer a socket, box end or open end wrench, one for each side. On metric nuts, it will often be 14mm or 15mm, sometimes bigger. American sizes are usually in the 9/16 - 5/8 - 11/16" range. I strongly discourage you from using any kind of pliers or even an adjustable (crescent) wrench. You have to tighten these babies pretty tight, and you can easily burr the corners off your nuts with adjustable tools, believe me I've done it. The tricky part is you have to do three things at once. First, you have to keep the front part of the tire evenly spaced between the two sides of the frame. Next, you have to slide both sides of the axle back in their slots until the chain has the proper tension. If you have a ten-speed style bike, the derailler mechanism will adjust the tension automatically for you, so slide the axle all the way back until the side with the gears is against the back of its slot, and let the other side move forward or back as needed for the tire to be centered between the frame. Finally, while you are keeping things lined up - a patient friend who is willing to help makes this much easier, just have them hold the tire so it is evenly spaced between the frame, and then you have to tighten the nuts. If you don't have a ten-speed style gear changer on the back tire, you have to take up most of the slack in the chain yourself and hold it tight until you get those nuts tight enough to keep the axle from slipping. Don't be surprised if you have to loosen up the nuts and do it again - on a single speed bike you should have about 1/4" to 1/2" of flex in the middle of the chain, halfway between the front and rear sprockets. Too tight, and it can wear out your bearings or chain well before their time. Too loose, and your chain will fall off at the worst possible moment, and you will have to do this process all over again, after you push your bike back home. Tighten a little on each side until things get snug, and if the tire is still centered between the frame, do both sides again, harder now (grunt a little this time, it helps) and you should be good to go. Remember, you are not trying to strip the axle threads, or break anything, but you do have to get it tight enough so it won't slip on you again.
2. Oh, yeah, there is another common method you find pretty often on ten-speed style bikes, the quick release.
91177b4.jpg This is an assembly that consists of a lever built onto the axle nut, and the lever is only on one side. You don't use a wrench on the quick release, but they are a little tricky until you understand how they work. As you pull the lever away from the frame, a cam inside loosens the axle, and as you push the lever toward the frame, it tightens. When the lever is in the loose position, you can also spin the nut on the axle tighter or looser (careful, it doesn't take much, and clockwise should be tighter on most bikes). Tightening or loosening the nut part does most of travel, and the lever does the last little bit. The lever is short, usually only 2-3 inches, so if you don't have to push pretty hard on the lever, the nut is probably too loose, and you need to loosen the lever and rotate the nut part clockwise a little bit, until it feels like the axle is getting really good and tight just about the time the lever gets close to the frame. This can also take 2-3 tries of loosening the lever, tightening or loosening the nut, and retightening the lever again, until it feels good and tight, and of course, you have to check your tire alignment one more time to make sure it is still nicely centered between the frame of the bike. Turn the wheel by hand a few turns to make sure it doesn't rub on the frame. If everything is tight, and your tire is still centered, you're ready for a test ride. Just up and down the driveway to start with, and make sure your brakes are okay. Then you can go a little farther, and pedal a little harder. Hopefully the axle will be nice and solid, and you can say, "Good Job! I fixed it myself, on Fixya!"

May 09, 2010 | Cycling

2 Answers

Does the front wheel bearing have to be machined


on that vehicle it,s replacement remove wheel remove brake caliper and pads remove brake caliper mount if you look on back side of spindle around area where axle comes thru you have three or four bolts remove bolts remove axle nut and hub bearing assembly comes off re-install in reverse order if this vehicle has 4 wheel abs unhook any wheel speed sensors

Mar 18, 2010 | 2003 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

93 FXR Rear tire rubs belt guard w/axle centered.


Try just bending the belt guard or removing it and fileing some material off the guard so it does not rub. You may also be able to remedy this by adding washers to the belt guard attach points.

May 30, 2009 | 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

1 Answer

What all do i remove to replace the rear wheel bearings on a 1995


First jack rear end up and block it..Remove the rear tires,Take off caliper and caliper bracket..Next remove the rotor,Then there will be a big nut in the center that the axle is bolted to.Remove that nut..Then make sure thees no wires for abs or any other kind of wires connected to the bearing.Next you should see 3 bolts holding the bearing in maybe 4 they changed them so many times..After removing the bolts you'll probably need a hammer and a chisel or air chisel to get the bearing out..Be careful when doing this to not damage the holder thats holding the bearing it.Go all the way around it with the chisel working all corners to removing the bearing..By now you should have progress on getting it out.Repeat process to installing the new one..Just be very carefull in not ruining the new one and there is a torque spec on the center nut that holds the axle and tightens the bearings preload.Call your local parts store for torque spec on rear axle nut.If you don't get the right amount off torque will result in early failure.Not to tight and not to loose.It not that major and it may seem but will save you money in the end..So dont forget to get the torque specs.Good luck and happy I could help..

Mar 30, 2009 | 1995 Ford Thunderbird

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