Question about 1998 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic
Bike starts but after riding 30 min won't start only clicks @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous you turn on the ignition switch press the starter button and all you get is the dreaded "CLICK" or "CLUNK" now before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by the following two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay otherwise the usual suspects for a faulty starter solenoid are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, must be 12.5 volts or better, voltage from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid must not drop more than 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
4. Disconnect spark plug cables, with a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 9.6 volts DC. If the voltage is below 9.6 the battery is faulty and must be replaced. I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery typically they have more amperage for cranking.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buying a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Bike Won START clicks won turn over
My Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 makes very quiet clik sound but
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual
Posted on Mar 09, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's most likely the connection to the battery. The screws dont tighten in well and you get the famous clicking....I replaced the stock philips screws with a hex bolt and after two years of trying to solve the problen have been starting everytime for the past year no problems. Another gie away is the intermitant starting problem gets worse when wet.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
You didn't mention what year model your bike is so I'll just generalize my response. Since you said that you replaced the solenoid, I'll assume that your bike is a 1988 model or earlier.
Your bike has a starter relay if it still has the stock wiring on it. Harley has used a starter relay since 1965 on the first model of ElectraGlide. Usually, it's underneath the battery tray or the seat or around that area.
On the back of your solenoid, you have three wire connections. Two very large connectors and one small connector. Make sure your bike is out of gear (in neutral) and use an old screwdriver to short between the large connector that comes from the battery and the small wire connection. The starter should engage and try to start the engine. If the ignition switch is on, it will start the engine. The starter will turn using this method with or without the switch being in the "on" position. If the starter works using this method, the problem is in either the relay or the neutral switch. If the starter does not turn the engine over, the problem is in the solenoid.
Now, let's check a few things. The small connector on the back of the solenoid should have a green or pink (depending on year) wire on it. Using a voltmeter or a test light, make sure you have voltage at the connector when you press the starter button with the switch in the "ON' position. If not, follow the wire to it's source, the relay.
The starter relay can be one of several different designs used throughout the years. It could be a small plastic cube, a small metal can, or a round phonelic relay. The relay should have four connections on it. A "hot" wire, a wire from the handlebar switch, the wire going to the starter, and a ground. The ground may be through the case itself. On the older Shovelhead bikes (1984 and earlier) there was a small short black wire that ran from the starter relay to the transmission for the ground. This wire must be intact or the relay would not work due to lack of a ground.
When you turn the switch on, one of the wires to the starter relay should become "hot". When you press the start button, you should hear a slight click and another of the smaller wires should now be "hot" as well, the one going to the starter.
On some year (1972 and later) models, the neutral switch was wired in with the starter relay. This was to prevent the bike from starting while "in gear" by disabling the relay. You'll have to figure this one out for yourself since I don't know what year model your bike is.
Now, you said you had power to the solenoid when you pushed the starter switch. So, let's assume that the starter failed the first test to told you aboue. If so, the problem is still most likely in the solenoid. Inside the solenoid, there is a large plunger with a copper disc on it. When you depress the starter switch, the coil in the solenoid becomes magnetized and pulls the plunger towards the back of the solenoid. This does two things, it engages the starter drive with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum and makes a high current electrical connection. The copper disc makes contact between the two large connections on the back of the solenoid from the inside. This connects the battery to the starter motor through the solenoid. If the black phonelic plate on the back of the solenoid is cracked or the contacts inside of it are badly burned, it will not work.
Now, if the solenoid is working correctly and you are getting voltage to your starter, it could be the brushes or something inside the starter. This is indicated if the starter trys to turn the engine over but just can't. It won't have enough power if the starter field windings are bad.
I hope I've given you something here that will help you solve your problem. This is basically the electrical part of the starter system. There are mechanical parts as well. If you hear the starter turning but the engine doesn't turn over, you have a mechanical problem. You can either repost or you can contact me directly at firstname.lastname@example.org I'll help if I can. Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
you just wasted the new solenoid, go buy another one and a new starter, also check to see if the fuse is blown, if the fuse is blown, your starter is going bad...you can verify all of what i'm saying if you know how to push start a bike...if it push starts, then everything else is fine, except for the starter circuitry..eg, starter switch, starter solenoid,or the Starter itself! Have you or the previous owner ever change out your starter? Well it would be a good guess that since it a 1984 model and my guess is that the bike probably has 40k on it, and that the starter is bad or going bad, or you have a major short in the battery cables that is cooking the solenoid..check all the wires for chaffing first, before replacing the starter.
if this has helped in the least amount could i get a testimonial from you.
and please get back to me if it didnt, we can try a few more things!
Posted on Aug 18, 2010
You have reduced this problem to (1) faulty starter or (2) weak battery. You can check your battery with a volt meter or a hydrometer. Youj can check the starter by jumping it with a known good battery (if you can access the wire leading to the starter)
Posted on Jun 13, 2011
SOURCE: bike won't start, new Harley
I'm not too familiar with the later model bikes but if I were getting a clicking noise under the seat and the bike was not starting, I'd investigate the source of the noise. It's possible that it is a starter relay that engages the solenoid that is an integral part of the starter. Look at the starter from the right hand side of your bike. You'll see a single small wire that connects to the end of the starter just above the end plate of the solenoid. Disconnect this wire and connect a test light or volt meter to the wire. Turn on your ignition switch and press the start button. You should hear the click under the seat and see voltage at the end of that wire. If not, replace the relay, a plastic cube about an inch in dimension.
Posted on Jul 02, 2011
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