Question about Motorcycles
I was riding my bike and there was twice a really loud bang on the left side of the engine ( I have a new coil)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you have power going to the coil but no spark, you've got something wrong with the "triggering" circuit of you ignition system.
One other thing, if your engine is the TC88 engine, (first year of production for some models) it probably has a "compression sensor" on it. If you have no compression, you will not have any spark. If you have your plugs out of the engine, you have no compression. So, screw a set of plugs into the engine, leave another set in the wires and grounded against the engine to test the spark.
The "triggering system" uses the signal from the ignition timing sensor that is located in the "nose cone" of the engine. Check this wiring from the ignition unit's "Black box" to the sensor. I seem to remember a plug that plugs in for this unit.
I'm afraid that this is about the only help I can give you with a stock ignition unit as I usually work with either earlier igniton systems or aftermarket units. I have very little experience with "stock" Harley units.
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
Had this same problem with my wife's 2004 XL1200C. Took it to the dealer and they discovered the batt cable was just a little loose. They tightened it and we've had no problems with that since...that was 2 yrs ago.
Posted on Jan 18, 2010
Ok, this is a lot better. I used to tell people that I couldn't fix a motorcycle over the phone and here I am trying to do it on a computer. My how times have changed.
Now, the seal that you're talking about is the engine sprocket shaft seal. I may not have been in backwards since I don't know what way it was in the case. If you look at a seal, the lip is pointed in one direction. The seal should be installed with the lip pointed AGAINST the oil flow, in this case towards the inside of the engine.
Another thing that most people make a mistake one when installing a new seal is that they put it up dry. By dry, I mean that they do not lubricate the lip of the seal, not the outside diameter. The reason, when the engine starts up, it goes to 1000-1500 RPM almost instantly. The result is friction burns the lip of the new seal up before oil has a chance to get to it.
Next, the spacer that goes onto the sprocket shaft should have had a larger diameter on one end of it. This larger diameter goes on the backside of the seal against the bearing in the case. This helps keep the oil away from the seal. Also, it helps to put a bead of RTV around the sprocket shaft where it comes out of the spacer. This prevents oil that might run down between the shaft and the seal from leaking out.
This is the best that I can tell you without actually seeing your setup. Someone may have changed the spacer with one that came with the belt drive kit and it's allowing the oil to leak. If you would like an "exploded" view of how your bottom end is assembled, send me an e-mail at wd4ity @ bellsouth.net. I'll scan the picture in a service manual and send it to you.
Posted on Apr 27, 2010
If the bike is still under warranty, I'd take it to a dealer to begin with. But, if I had to take a guess, I'd say that the starter was trying to turn over before the starter gear on the jackshaft is properly engaged with the ring gear on the outer clutch basket. What would cause this? I'd look at the contacts in the starter solenoid and make sure they were straight.
From the right hand side of the bike look for a plate on the end of the starter that is shaped roughly like a pentagon (five sided). The plate is held on by three small screws. Remove the screws and the plate. Behind the plate you'll find a plunger and a spring. Remove the plunger and the spring. Look inside and on either side of the solenoid body on the inside, you'll see two large copper contacts. Are they straight across or are they kind of twisted? Sometimes when the large cables are attached to these contacts, the nut is tightened too tightly and the contacts get twisted. This makes the contact on the plunger make contact with these contacts before the plunger is all the way in it's inwards position. The starter motor begins to spin before the starter gear is completely engaged with the ring gear on the clutch outer shell. The gear makes a loud clank as it engages with the clutch gear.
To straigten them, disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery. Loosen the nut on large cable connections on BOTH sides of the solenoid. Remove the long spring from the plunger. Put the plunger back into the solenoid and push it all the way in. While holding the plunger in, tighten the connections where the large cables connect. Remove the plunger replace the sping, put the plunger back in the solenoid. Put the plate back on and reconnect the negative cable at the battery. Hopefully this will help.
Posted on Jun 18, 2010
SOURCE: Hi i have bought a
I have had two Buell Ulysses from a Brisbane Harley Dealer and have put a total of 80 000km on the two of them. I can tell you that if you have an after-market exhaust installed (EG Jardine, etc) then surging and backfires are the name of the game. Power Commander and other replacement EFCs are not the answer either (because no proper solution was in place before they stopped Buell's production). I do run a Jardine on my current model and putting in the noise limiter has made for smoother running. Also...Buell's are subect to vibration in the bars. I installed anti-vibration weights in the bar-ends and voila'...no vibration...just great as I can now see my speedometer...LOL. I hope any of this is of some use to you. I LOVE my Buell. I've been riding over 50yrs, I've owned dozens of bikes, motorcycles are my daily ride and this is my favourite machine (followed close behind by my Hayabusa).
Posted on May 28, 2011
Testimonial: "Thank you for your feed back to my problem, the Buell has not got after market bits ,just stanard. Were the Dealership in Brisbane help full ?"
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