Question about 2004 Harley Davidson FXSTD - FXSTDI Softail Deuce

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Front fork dust cover removal - 2004 Harley Davidson FXSTD - FXSTDI Softail Deuce

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Hi Jim, usually just a small tap in opposing sides with a small wooden or soft plastic tool from the bottom will release it from the rubber dust shield. Good luck

Posted on Jun 09, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I want to split my fz16s front fork


Before you remove the fork loosen the top triple clamp on the fork you want to remove. Now loosen the top cap of the fork. Loosen the bottom triple clamp and slide the fork out of the bike. Remove the top cap of the fork.There is spring pressure pushing against the cap, but if the fork is not being compressed it not difficult to take off or to put back on. When it is removed pour the oil in to a container and reinstall the cap. In stall the cap all the way but you don't have to tighten it.
Slide the dust cap up and off of the fork without scratching any of the chrome. Now remove the "C" clip or spring that was under the dust seal and place with the dust seal.Flip the fork upside down to access the allen head bolt in the bottom of the fork. Using an impact driver break this loose. Once loose remove the top cap and spring from inside. Now remove the the bottom bolt. Holding both tubes of the fork compress and snap apart quickly. This might take a few times but the should come apart rather easily.

Oct 23, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Change fork oil street bob 2007


To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

May 11, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob

1 Answer

How to Replace front fork seals on Suzuki GSXR 1100 K model


Remove front wheel, brake calliper etc . Undo top and bottom yoke pinch bolts and slide out fork leg. Clamp chrome tube in a soft jawed vice and remove top nut carefully as it is under some load and will fly away, (but its not too much you can hold it with your hand). Tip out remaining oil slowly so as to not loose spacer on top of main fork spring. Clamp lower aluminium leg in vice by calliper mounts and remove allen screw in extreme end (if the wheel spindle was in you couldnt see it) This is the only part that might be a problem as the inner end may turn. An impact wrench may help or if not a simple broom handle shoved up the other end is often enough. Once this bolt is removed the leg will split. Now lever out the dust cover to reveal the wire circlip holding in the fork seal. Remove the clip and lever out carefully the old fork seal. Fit new seal using a large socket and mallet or something similar and reassemble in reverse order, not forgetting to add correct amount of new fork oil.

Jun 30, 2012 | 1989 Suzuki GSX 400 XS Impulse

2 Answers

I have a 1974 Yamaha 650 XS that has been sitting for about 20 yrs. I am trying to separate the front fork tubes without damaging them so I can have them restored but I am having an issue getting them...


Assuming you have slackened off the fork top nut before removing the fork from the bike,and you have removed the screw in the fork lower, this secures the damper into the fork, next you will have removed the dust cover and seal retaining clip from the top of the leg, undo the fork top nut completly and remove the spring noteing which end of the spring is at the top, for replacment purposes.
Next fasten the lower of the fork into a vice on the flat ( not tubular surface of the fork leg) push the stancion all the way down to the bottom of the leg, then pull up sharply, repeating this in/out action to hammer out the seal from the leg until the seal/ bushes/ and washer have come out, this mat take some quick action movments to remove or separate the leg, forks which have not been appart in some time may need some heat on the fork seal. ARea of the lower leg

Sep 06, 2011 | 1974 Yamaha XS 650 A

1 Answer

I do not have a motor cycle manuel and I need to replace dust covers and seals and fork oil on a 750 GSX Suzuki 89/90 Model . have you ?


hi, the obviouse thing here is to get a manual, however if you think you have the finess required to do the job its fairly straight forward, put bike on stand, raise the front wheel of ground, remove spindle from front wheel, remove calipers from forks, DO NOT REMOVE BRAKE LINES FROM CALIPERS, once you have done this you can then remove the front wheel, put spindle back through loose wheel inc spacers to keep all in place, remove front mudguard, i always tell people to try and remove the lower fork leg first leaving fork tube on the bike, some forks it is poss to do this as the busshing is fitted to the lower leg and not the chrome tube, undo the bolt in the lower fork leg on the underneath inside where the spindle fits through, once removed, using a container to catch the oil, pull dovn on the lug to remove it, if it comes of all the way you are in luck easy job, the fork can then be cleaned and new seal fitted, the manual would come in handy for fork oil levels,if the leg does not come off you will have to remove the whole leg, before you remove it undo the top nut on each leg as the yokes will hold it for you, it is difficult to undo once the fork is removed, once removed, lift up the dust seal, remove the clip, and then the spring from the top, grip the lower leg in a vice with protective jaws, on the flat surface only, to grab the tube area would damage the fork leg, once in the vice, push in the stancion fully depress and pull out sharply you may have to repeat this sevral times useing the stancion as a hammer until the seal is removed, replace in reverse order,
DO 1 FORK FIRST REASEMBLE THEN DO THE OTHER, hope this helps feel free to contact me, paul

Dec 17, 2010 | 1990 Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana)

1 Answer

How to replace the fork seals on a 2003 harley davidson fatboy


If you ask this question YOU should not be doing it! but your *** on the seat not mine.
Remove ...........front wheel, front fender,top fork cap and loosen lower triple clamp bolts under head light cover, forks are now out!
Remove 6mm bolt at the bottom of the fork leg and drain oil,remove dust seal and wire clip, now remove the upper fork nut (the spring will jump out at you).Pull the leg and tube away from each other, the old seal will stay on the tube..clean and reassemble driving NEW seal down into place with wire clip.....refill with oil

Mar 31, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTFI Fat Boy

3 Answers

How do I change the fork seals on a 2008 Honda CRF 250 r? Do I use a special tool? Oil? How much oil? Thanks so much for your expertise. Do I put equal amounts of oil on each side? Inner tube- outer tube?


hi,replacing the seal is quite easy,although it will sound complicated,jack up or lift the bike off the ground so that the front wheel is in the air(about 12-14 inches should be enough,remove the front wheel from the bike,remove each fork leg,this is done by undoing the bolts(4 on each leg)the front fork is quite easy to work on just do one at a time,remove the dust cover from the top of the staunchion tube(larger diameter tube),beneath that dust cover you should see a retaining clip that holds the seal in place,remove the retaining clip(and dont lose it),the seal is now ready to remove,the easiest way that i know to do this is to force a screwdriver through the body of the seal,you may need to hit the screwdriver with a hammer as some seal have a tin backing plate,put a hole through the seal on each side of the fork leg taking care not to damage the chrome of the fork leg,then use the screwdriver to lever the seal out of the fork leg,to reinstall the new seal,put a smear of grease or oil around the outside of the new seal,slide the new seal down the fork leg and seat it squarely into the fork tube,very carefully tap the new seal into place being very carefull not to damage the outer surface,i use a small piece of dowell type timber to do this as the wood doesnt damage the seal surface,i use a small ballpeen hammer to tap the wooden dowell,once you have the seal seated down the tube you should be able to see the groove for the retaining clip,reinstall the retaining clip making sure it is seated corectly,replace the dust cover,if you are going to replce the fork oil or top it up do this once the fork leg is back in the bike,repeat the whole procedure for the other fork leg,once you have done the fork seals reinslall the fork legs back into the bike and refit the front wheel,to top up the oil in each leg,simply undo the large cap on the end of the fork leg,you may have to remove the handlebars to do this,be carefull as the cap will be spring loaded and can easily fly off if you are not ready for it,top up or fill with the correct weight oil for your bike(normally a 10w oil),check with your local honda agent for the correct quantity,normally between 400-500 mls,this all sounds quite complicated but is actually quite easy and can be done with a minimal of tools,each fork shold take about 1/2 hr to do...hope this is a help to you

Jul 15, 2009 | 2005 Honda CRF 250 R

1 Answer

Seals blown on front shocks


to remove seals you will need to remove each fork leg from the bike,i put the bike on the centre stand and jack under the motor to get the front wheel off the ground,after you remove the fork leg,remove the dust cover(if fitted),remove the circlip holding the old seal,you may have to stab through the old seal with a screwdriver to remove the seal from inside the leg(be carefull not to damage the chrome on the fork leg),clean around the surfaces and install the new seal making sure it goes back in dead square,refit the circlip,then refit the dust cover,replace fork tube back in bike and top up with new oil,most bikes take between 300 to 500cc of oil,but check with your local shop as all bikes are different,and you can adjust the amount of rebound damping by varying the amount of oil you put back in,..sounds complicated but quite an easy job..hope this helps

Jul 04, 2009 | 1995 Suzuki GS 500 E

1 Answer

Oil seal front fork leak( a link whit pictures will help)


you need to rebuild your forks new oil seals and dust covers

May 21, 2009 | 1998 Ducati Monster 750 - Dark - City -...

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