Question about BMW R 1150 RT (ABS Motorcycles

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BMW 1150 RT throttle sticking

My BMW 1150 throttle is sticking then now is stuck open. I'm due to go on a biking trip this weekend. Any solutions that are a quick fix? Just purchased this bike used. thanks for your help. Larry

Posted by Anonymous on

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Hi, Anonymous for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Sticky Throttle BMWSportTouring Forums
Hard Throttle or Limp Wrist BMW Luxury Touring Community
2001 2004 BMW R1150RT Service Manual Moto Data Project BMW Motorcycle Parts Fiche OEM BMW Motorcycle Parts online 1970 present BMW
http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/index.html?content=http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/services/manuals/manuals_main.html¬rack=1

Posted on Dec 30, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: bike bogs for second then revs when throttling

Pull the slide out of the carb then remove the jet needle and move the clip one notch lower on the needle.

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: bike bogs when throttling

Quitting is a no-no. Move the needle clip down one notch and also remove and clean the carb if it has been dieing..

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Honda CR125 Motocross bike throttle delay

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Now pull the top cap off the throat of the carb and remove the large slide. There will be a long needle in the center of the slide. Remove the needle and then move the clip at the top on the needle down one notch. Two notches may be required but start with one notch. Put it all back together and try it out. Moving the clip downward richens the low end fuel mix.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

  • 375 Answers

SOURCE: I need tuning specs for my 1982 suzuki gs 750.

You need to fix the fueling first - without fuel it won't run!
Your other problem sounds like an air leak - either the manifold or the carb. Check by spraying WD-40 or CRC at the manifold and carb join while the bike is running - if the revs change (either up or down) you have a leak.

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: Oil change procedure on BMW R 1150 R 2002

Things you will need, Drain pan, 5 quarts oil, BMW oil filter, oil drain plug seal, can of brake cleaner, allen head wrench that fits your drain plug, a oil filter wrench for R- Bike filters, ratchet with a drive that fits the oil filter wrench, paper towels, latex gloves, funnel that fits into the oil fill plug hole. I also keep an old blanket around so I can lay on the ground. Warm the bike up for 5 mins then turn off. Get the bike on the center stand. Position your drain pan under the drain plug . I like to lay out everything im going to use on 4 or 5 paper towels . Remove the fill plug on the top of the left cylinder, set it on the paper towel to keep crud off it. Take your allen head wrench and loosen the drain plug , if you using an open pan to drain your oil , be prepared to fish out the drain plug, it will fall into the oil drain pan. Let the oil drain for 10 minutes. Take some brake clean and spray it all around the area of the oil filter to get rid of all the crud. All the dripping **** should flow into the drain pan if you bought one big enough. Buy drain pans that you can reseal when your done, put it in the car and take it to a recycling center. Put the oil filter wrench onto the ratchet. This oil filter wrench will slip into the filter slot under the engine. Just turn the ratchet untill the filter comes off. Should be clockwise. After the filter is removed, spray brake clean into the filter housing area to get rid off the **** and oil, wipe down with a paper towel and reach up into the filter housing to get all the ****, one final spray off brake clean should clean everthing out.
IF THERE IS NO MORE OIL COMING OUT OF THE DRAIN PLUG, put a new sealing ring on the drain plug and tighten up , snug not TIGHT.
Now before you put the new oil filter on , open up a quart of oil and fill the oil filter up about 90% with new oil, put a little oil on the rubber seal, put the the oil filter into your filter tool and insert the tool and filter up into the filter housing. Do this be hand so you will not strip the filter housing threads. The filter should go on very easy and you should be able to turn the filter at least 3-4 turns until its hand tight, Finish off with the ratchet, SNUG NOT TIGHT. Finish off with a little brake cleaning on the bottom of the engine housing to clean up any oil. Put the funnel in the fill hole and put in 3 quarts of oil. Read your owners manual for your oil capacity. There is a sight glass on the lower left side off the engine under the cylinder. Fill with oil until the oil level is in the middle of the sight glass. Put you fill cap back on. Turn you engine over a couple of times put dont let the bike run for more than 5 seconds, let the bike sit for 2-5 minutes to let the oil level settle, then check the oil level in the sight glass, it should be in the middle. if you dont see any oil in the sight glass after 2-5 minutes add a little oil at a time until the oil level in the sight glass is in the middle. Start the bike agian for 5-10 seconds , then check the oil level in the sight glass. You should be good to go. email me for any questions

Posted on Apr 21, 2010

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Hi, Anonymous for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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http://www.k100.biz/pdf/FAQ/FAQ_K100_tips.pdf
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http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/index.html?content=http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/services/manuals/manuals_main.html¬rack=1

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Personally, I would suggest any high quality 20W50 engine oil for your bike. You can use a synthetic if the engine is fully broken in (over 10,000 miles) I use Castrol Syntec in my machine.

There are many choices... since the oil only lubricates the engine on these bike and is not shared with the gearbox.

Hoep this is helpful!

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depends on service history !!
If it looks lie a rat then it usually is
but BMW are renound for there longevity & reliability!
they tend to blow a liitle smoke after resting on the side stand but it clears up quickly no real effect on performnce!
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Cheers Rob.

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