Question about Motorcycles
How to adjust clutch to make gear change smother
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: LT 500 ATV clutch adjustment
I havn't come across your Machine before but hopefully a little Q 'n' A will solve/FiXya problem.
O.K. 1st is the clutch cable operated? if so can the cable should be adjustable from the handle bars?(Then take up the slack to leave a slight gap when lever is pulled) Do this by loosening the locking screw on the end of the cable and turning the adjuster anti clockwise so tension is put on the cable Not the lever.
If the cable isn't adjustable from lever go down to the engine and do the same as above on the cable there.
2nd Is the clutch fluid operated (Master Cylinder on clutch lever) If so look for clutch pushrod and adjust it by loosening again the locking nut and winding it out to create less gap between pushrod and clutch arm. You may need to bleed the system if after adjusting still the same.(Come back to me on that if needed)
3rd If when carried out the clutch starts slipping i.e. in top gear Engine Rev's and doesn't move forward well? then release the tension on either cable/pushrod until happy medium.
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
SOURCE: Jumps into second gear.
dont think its the clutch sounds like a bent shift fork, in first gear starting off the transmission has torque or pressure applied to the first gear set when you let the throttle off (no torque or pressure on tranny) it shifts by its self this is a sign of a bent shift fork hope this helps leave us a rate please
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
No adjusting is possible.
Slip can be caused by several defaults:
- Wrong engine oil ( SAE 10w-40 API SE or SF only )
- Weak clutch springs ( free spring length : 34mm ( 1.34in ) MINIMUM
- Worn clutch disk 2(internal teeths ) ( wear limit 3.15mm ( 0.124in ) ) This is the last disk, against the clutch center
- Worn clutch disks 1 (internal teeths) ( wear limit 2.62mm ( 0.103in ) )
- Clutch plates ( thikcness between 1.55 and 1.65mm / 0.0610 and 0.0649 inches
- Damaged pressure plate ( cracks round the spring holes )
To check the clutch parts, the right engine cover must be removed.
Take attention while loosening the clutch spring bolts!
Drain engine oil, and set engine into first gear ( this locks the clutch for an easy loosening of the spring bolts )
Hope it helps
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
THE CLUTCH PLATES COULD BE WORN ALSO THERE ARE ADJUSTMENTS BY THE CLUTCH LEVER TURN IT COUNTER CLOCK WISE TO TAKE SLACK OUT OF THE CLUTCH CABLE
Posted on Jan 29, 2010
Wave washer on the face of the clutch basket may have lost its tension, clutch friction plates may be wearing thin as she's an old girl. Some automotive (car) oils not specifically designed for wet clutches when used in a bike will cause the clutch to slip as they are designed to leave a deposit on friction areas. This will require a thorough flush and a few oil changes in quick succession.
Check the return function of the clutch release arm on the crankcase, they can bunch up the rubber shroud and not return fully. Good luck and Cheers.
Posted on May 08, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 19, 2012 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks
Feb 24, 2011 | 2006 Suzuki GS 500 F
Jan 10, 2011 | Suzuki Boulevard C90 Motorcycles
Oct 25, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125
Oct 11, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara
Aug 04, 2009 | Suzuki 2005 QuadSport Z400
Jan 02, 2009 | 2000 Suzuki GS 500 E
Nov 23, 2008 | 2003 Suzuki GZ 125 Marauder
28 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!