Question about 2007 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe

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I have a 2007 royal star midnight tour deluxe 1300 it has 21,000 miles on it. I am hearing a bad whine noise from the crank case or the final drive. I have a bub exhaust with out baffles and it is LOUD. and this whine is louder than the pipes. it sounds to me, like its from the crank case. I asked Dothen power sports in Alabama about it. they say its from square cut gears and its normal. well, I have to say, if its normal. than I need to sell this bike. it gives me a head ache. and its real bad at 75 mph on the express way. has any one had a problem like this?

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 43,838 Answers

Hi, Anonymous get a 2nd opinion I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Chains---RATTLE
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fronk Forks---Plunk
8. Gears---WHINE
9. Head Gasket---HISS
10. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
11. Pistons---SLAP
12. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
13. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
14. Solid Lifters---TICK
15. Starters---CLICK
16. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
High Pitch Whistle Whine Transmission
Yamaha royal star tour deluxe whine
Yamaha XVS1300A 2007 Service Manual
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Yamaha 2007 XVS1300AW Owner Manual

Posted on Apr 28, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: royal star venture spewing gas from carbeurator

The float is stuck open. Clean the carb.

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

bazzz7071
  • 342 Answers

SOURCE: 2007 Royal Star Tour Delux with 15,000 miles Rear brake issues.

No you should have from time to time safety checked your motorcycle, brakes are a normal wear part and should have been replaced before the friction material had completely worn off.

Posted on May 24, 2010

tartantyger
  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: 2007 Royal Star Tour Delux with 15,000 miles. Rear brakes scored

Not an unusual problem, no recalls. Replace pads (and rotor, if necessary), but after brakes are bled, loosen the bolt between the rear caliper arm and the swing arm, have someone apply and hold rear brake, tighten bolt. The arm, which holds the caliper in line with the rotor, occasionally loosens and allows misalignment. Checking pad thickness on both sides of the disk regularly will reveal caliper problems if wear is not evenly distributed.

Posted on Jul 25, 2010

tartantyger
  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: 2007 Royal Star Tourer Deluxe with 9K...gasoline

You didn't mention where the fuel is coming from, so I'll start from the fuel pump; if it's not leaking with the key off, it has to be between the fuel pump and the carburetors.

First, remove the driver's seat, then the left side cover (it's the color matched cover under the front seat; it's held on by one bolt, the one toward the back of the motorcycle, and a friction pin through a grommet on the inside of the side cover, low and toward the center of the bike). Next remove the center cover, held on by pins and grommets on both sides. You've now exposed the fuel pump and filter, you can see the supply line from the fuel tank to to the pump, the output of the pump to the filter, and the line from the filter back toward the carburetors.

Check all exposed hoses and clamps for cracks, tears or loose connections. If none are evident, turn on the key; you should now be able to detect the source of the leak IF it's in the vicinity of the fuel pump and filter. The pump puts out 2-3 lbs. of pressure; a leak in that area should be obvious.

If you've detected no leakage there, reinstall the center cover, then the left cover, and proceed to the vicinity of the fuel tank and engine. Remove the fuel tank mounting bolts (there are two under the front of the tank, through tabs on the underside of the tank to the sides of the frame; there is also a bolt through a special washer and rubber insulator to the top of the frame at the rear of the tank. Lift the tank enough that you can see the fuel feed lines on both sides, as well as the fuel supply line from the fuel pump and filter. Examine lines on both sides, looking for cracks, tears of loose connections. Turn on the key, a leak in this vicinity should be immediately evident.

If none of the supply lines are leaking, the carburetors will have to be removed individually and checked for stuck needles, bad floats, or leaks in the carburetor housing. Those leaks, however, are typically sufficiently small that they would not be described as "gasoline pouring out".

Posted on Jul 27, 2010

Tri3mast
  • 747 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2002 Royal

Okay, possible problem is the final drive isn't quite the final drive because they transfer the power through the final drive to a inner sprocket looking affair which has rubber pumpers or pads to take up the shock. It's not metal on metal it's a rubber drive.

Hard to explain but, what you are hearing is the drive cogs working on a dry rubber bushing, same type system on the Goldwings, there was a special synthetic grease that went on mine and we were good for a ton of miles after that.

Also these rubber drive parts do crack and break apart after about 10,000 miles.

Posted on May 04, 2011

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I once had a 96... these are famous for final drive whine. Try dumping the final drive oil and replace it with an approved synthetic... possibly and oil that's a bit heavier duty than stock. Usually this will help cosiderably, as long as it hasn't gone too long before a change. Hope this helps.

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2007 Royal Star Tour Delux with 15,000 miles Rear brake issues.


No you should have from time to time safety checked your motorcycle, brakes are a normal wear part and should have been replaced before the friction material had completely worn off.

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2007 Royal Star Tour Delux with 15,000 miles. Rear brakes scored


Not an unusual problem, no recalls. Replace pads (and rotor, if necessary), but after brakes are bled, loosen the bolt between the rear caliper arm and the swing arm, have someone apply and hold rear brake, tighten bolt. The arm, which holds the caliper in line with the rotor, occasionally loosens and allows misalignment. Checking pad thickness on both sides of the disk regularly will reveal caliper problems if wear is not evenly distributed.

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1 Answer

2007 xvz1300 Royal Star Venture gear whine at 50-60mph is related to shaft drive pinion gears or clutch basket


Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket, drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to tell which you have so:

Barring a failure of the clutch basket, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon, I've got 111,000 on a Tour Deluxe with it, and it just keeps going...

The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.

Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.

Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.

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1 Answer

2007 xvz1300 Royal Star Venture gear whine at 50-60mph is related to shaft drive pinion gears or clutch basket


Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket, drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to tell which you have so:

Barring a failure of the clutch basket, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon, I've got 111,000 on a Tour Deluxe with it, and it just keeps going...

The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.

Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.

Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.

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