Question about 2007 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous get a 2nd opinion I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
7. Fronk Forks---Plunk
9. Head Gasket---HISS
10. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
12. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
13. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
14. Solid Lifters---TICK
16. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
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Posted on Apr 28, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
No you should have from time to time safety checked your motorcycle, brakes are a normal wear part and should have been replaced before the friction material had completely worn off.
Posted on May 24, 2010
Not an unusual problem, no recalls. Replace pads (and rotor, if necessary), but after brakes are bled, loosen the bolt between the rear caliper arm and the swing arm, have someone apply and hold rear brake, tighten bolt. The arm, which holds the caliper in line with the rotor, occasionally loosens and allows misalignment. Checking pad thickness on both sides of the disk regularly will reveal caliper problems if wear is not evenly distributed.
Posted on Jul 25, 2010
You didn't mention where the fuel is coming from, so I'll start from the fuel pump; if it's not leaking with the key off, it has to be between the fuel pump and the carburetors.
First, remove the driver's seat, then the left side cover (it's the color matched cover under the front seat; it's held on by one bolt, the one toward the back of the motorcycle, and a friction pin through a grommet on the inside of the side cover, low and toward the center of the bike). Next remove the center cover, held on by pins and grommets on both sides. You've now exposed the fuel pump and filter, you can see the supply line from the fuel tank to to the pump, the output of the pump to the filter, and the line from the filter back toward the carburetors.
Check all exposed hoses and clamps for cracks, tears or loose connections. If none are evident, turn on the key; you should now be able to detect the source of the leak IF it's in the vicinity of the fuel pump and filter. The pump puts out 2-3 lbs. of pressure; a leak in that area should be obvious.
If you've detected no leakage there, reinstall the center cover, then the left cover, and proceed to the vicinity of the fuel tank and engine. Remove the fuel tank mounting bolts (there are two under the front of the tank, through tabs on the underside of the tank to the sides of the frame; there is also a bolt through a special washer and rubber insulator to the top of the frame at the rear of the tank. Lift the tank enough that you can see the fuel feed lines on both sides, as well as the fuel supply line from the fuel pump and filter. Examine lines on both sides, looking for cracks, tears of loose connections. Turn on the key, a leak in this vicinity should be immediately evident.
If none of the supply lines are leaking, the carburetors will have to be removed individually and checked for stuck needles, bad floats, or leaks in the carburetor housing. Those leaks, however, are typically sufficiently small that they would not be described as "gasoline pouring out".
Posted on Jul 27, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 2002 Royal
Okay, possible problem is the final drive isn't quite the final drive because they transfer the power through the final drive to a inner sprocket looking affair which has rubber pumpers or pads to take up the shock. It's not metal on metal it's a rubber drive.
Hard to explain but, what you are hearing is the drive cogs working on a dry rubber bushing, same type system on the Goldwings, there was a special synthetic grease that went on mine and we were good for a ton of miles after that.
Also these rubber drive parts do crack and break apart after about 10,000 miles.
Posted on May 04, 2011
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