Question about 2011 Yamaha FZ16
Hi, Prajwal for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Posted on Dec 27, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Yamaha FZ 400 engine timing
hi,normal way to set up fz is as follows,remove left hand engine cover and you will find cdi picups with a backing plate and interrupter tongue,remove all the spark plugs(dont get the leads mixed up),turn the motor by hand up to top dead centre on no1 piston,the tdc mark the plate will line up with the cdi pickup,no1 piston will now be at tdc,both sets of valves ex and intake should be closed and the tappets slightly rocking,if thay are not and any of the valves on no1 piston are open or tight,look to the end of the camshaft (where the cam fits into the bearing surface)and there will be a horizontal mark on each camshaft,release the cam chain tensioner,slip the camchain off the sprockets and rotate the camshaft untill the marks on the camshaft are exactly parrellel to the rocker box mating surface,fefit the cam chain and check alignment then retension the adjuster and check the marks again,if you have it right the marks should still be exactly parellel with the rocker box and the piston should still be sitting at tdc,if it is out by 1 tooth do it again untill it all three marks are exactly right,failing to do this WILL result in a valve sailing through the top of a piston,then it becomes a bigger job again,after you have got them adjusted correctly ,turn the motor over by hand to check that nothing is binding,if you are satisfied that everything is right,then use the starter and you should have compression,hope this helps
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
SOURCE: i have a yamaha 1987
If old gas sat in the carb.s for more than a month it starts to dry up. As it drys up it leaves behind a varnish like film that stops up some very small ports and pin holes inside a motorcycle carburetor. It is also very hard to get out. You can try this before you pull the carb.s for a full cleaning. Use a product called Seafoam, get as much gas out of the carb.s as you can. use a turkey baster and force the seafoam into your carb.s fuel line that you took loose from the fuel tank. Let that set for days 1 or 2. then hook up the fuel tank with a mix of good gas and seafoam, (not a lot but enough to start it up. Move the cycle outside as the seafoam will make a lot of smoke if it does start up. If that does not clear up the problem you may have to pull the carb.s and remove the blows to clean the inside. If you have to do that do not DO NOT MESS with any adjustment screws, DO NoT MeSs with any screws. Just take the carb. bowls off keep each one separate and number them so they do not get mixed up. do not mix up any internal parts. It is best to work on one at the time so nothing goes wrong. Work on a large sheet so if you drop a small part you can find it, you do not want to be missing some tiny spring or screw. Hope this Helps.
Posted on Mar 19, 2011
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