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Thermostatic switch won't run but will if bypassed? fuse is good

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Replace the switch.

Posted on Jul 15, 2013

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Installed new blower motor. bearing shelled in old one. new motor won't blow. tested . it's good don't have power to moter. fuses good relay good. isthere a circuit breaker in wiring for b


I don't have a diagram for a 2008. On 2005 models the blower motor relay gets power from a 30amp fuse.
When the blower switch is in the high position the resistor is bypassed and power flows directly to the motor. The motor is grounded to the car.
The fan relay also gets power from a 7.5amp fuse and is controlled by the HVAC control on the dash.
Do you have power into and out of the relay?

Feb 25, 2013 | 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer

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Brake lights won't turn off even with fuse out


the circuit is shorted to the bulbs somewhere in the wires there is a short causing power to bypass the fuse and constantly run to the bulbs

Aug 03, 2012 | 1989 Dodge Ram D-Series Pickups

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Gas dryer won't get hot


You will have to remove the back panel to access this part. Be sure that you unplug the machine before starting. Once the back panel has been taken off and placed aside the thermal switch will be located on the left lower side near the blower housing . It will be thin and long and located near the cycling thermostat that has for prongs on it. On certain machines, the thermal fuse is located in the front. To access this you must remove the kickplate, which can be done by pushing the clips, one on each side jsut above the top of the kickplate, in between the top and abottom portion. The part numbers are the same for either style dryer. To test this part you can either take the wires off it and tie them together then plug the machine back in and see if it heats, or you can use amultimeter and check to see if there is continuity, if there is its good, if not, bad. The thermal fuse will usually be white, and if located in the back, be thin and long with two wires on it, left and right. If in the bottom front, it will be front center on the exhaust duct. In some cases the ignitor or the gas coils will go bad. Here is a good process of elimination.
1)Verify that the thermal fuse is good. If you don't have a meter bypass it and turn the machine on. If heats, thermal fuse is bad, if not leave connected and continue
2)When the dryer starts and thermal fuse bypassed, the ignitor should start to get hot and glow, if your thermal fuse is in the back you are going to have to have to the top of the dryer up to see down inside near the front for the glow. You can do this by taking the lint trap out and removing the two screws and popping the top up. If the ignitor comes on more than likely the gas coils are bad and if it doesn't the ignitior is bad. (this is while the thermal fuse is bypassed so the ignitor has power to it regardless)

May 24, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

My roper dryer won't start unless i find just the


Hi jodiew0228...
Sounds like you have two problems
1...Bad timer...replace your timer
2...Something wrong in the heating circuit...
***************************************************
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 16, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

My 99 s10 has no check engine light even when just turning the key, won't start and the fuel pump wont turn on. Changed ECM, Body control module, and ignition switch. I have checked all Fuses and...


IF FUEL PUMP RELAY IS NOT WORKING THE COMPUTER IS NOT READDING IT THEIR IS NO BYPASSING THE COMPUTER(ie) DOT CODE on that model vehical THE MASS AIR SENSOR REGULATES 90% OF HOW THE IGNITION TIMING RUNS I USED TO GET AWAY WITH IT ON OLDER MODELS NOT ANY MORE!?

Aug 30, 2011 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Dryer won't start


This usually caused by a blown thermal fuse on the blower housing located behind the rear access panel. This thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and if it blows, power to the motor is terminated and the motor cannot run. No dryer function works when the motor cannot run.

Unplug the dryer or disconnect power then remove the rear access panel. Locate the thermal fuse then bypass it for troubleshooting purposes.

jahn27_444.jpg

Bypass the thermal fuse by disconnecting the wires and joining it together. Insulate properly and plug the dryer back in. The thermal fuse is indeed blown and needs to be replaced if the dryer starts. Do not use the dryer with the thermal fuse bypassed due to fire hazards.

Clean the lint filter and make sure the vent system is not restricted then replace the thermal fuse including the cycling thermostat (thermistor for other models) as a standard operating procedure and preventive measure. The thermal fuse usually cuts out due to a failed cycling thermostat(thermistor for other models).

Jul 19, 2011 | Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Our Whirlpool dryer model #LER7646AQ0 will not start. Door switch checks for power with a power tester. Put new start switch in and still doesn't work. Do I need to use Ohm tester or will power tester...


This problem is commonly caused by a blown thermal fuse located on the blower housing. The thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and the motor activates a centrifugal switch for the heating element when it runs. These setup makes the dryer fail to start and the heating element not to turn on if the thermal fuse is blown. The dryer seems to no work at all. Verify the condition of the thermal fuse by bypassing it and starting the dryer.

Disconnect power then access and bypass the thermal fuse on the blower housing. The blower housing is located on the rear left bottom of the dryer cabinet. Remove the rear panel to access the blower housing and so the thermal fuse.

jahn27_41.jpg

Bypass the thermal fuse by disconnecting the wires and connecting them together. Insulate them properly and plug the dryer back in. The thermal fuse is indeed blown and needs to be replaced along with the cycling thermostat if the dryer starts. Do not use the dryer with the thermal fuse bypassed due to fire hazards.


The thermal fuse and cycling thermostat are part numbers 3392519 and 3387134, respectively.

Jan 11, 2011 | Dryers

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