Question about Motorcycles
I just bought this bike and I think I may have a oil leak since I see nothing in the sight glass, but first just need to know what type oil to use?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Not too hard to get the excess oil out. Easiest way is to tip the bike on its side with the oil fill bung out, and drain off some of the excess via there. The only other way to do it is drop the oil entirely and start again with fresh oil(dont reuse it even though it is new). Gets really messy trying to put the sump drain bung back in with oil pouring everywhere. You also stand the risk of getting dirt into the engine, so i Dont recommend draining off the excess from underneath. Dont run the bike with excess oil. The site glass is fitted from the inside of the casing, and is rather hard to clean. They get dirty from a build up of clutch friction material settling on the glass. You have to strip the motor down completely to do that. Hope that helps you solve your problem. Happy to answer any questions you may have. Riding bikes is so much fun...cept when it rains!! regards robotek
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
SOURCE: What type of oil in a KDX200?
i run Castor oil 20/50 in all of my bikes or rotella 15/40 you should be able to see it in the site glass when you drain all of the old oil and refill with new oil
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.
FYI ---- Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
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Posted on Jun 19, 2009
YZF600R is a carbureted model. OIL: The oil sight glass is a round window, low on the right side. Very hard to try to see when astride the bike, even if you use a mirror on an extension rod. Have a friend hold the bike level,perhaps, while you check. Oil should be sighted after the bike has been sitting for a time after riding. I suggest using a good 10W-40 regular motorcycle oil (Least expensive around here in Boston is to buy Kawasaki by the gallon at Riverside) I found the pesky 1st-to-2nd shift to be more direct with this oil than with synthetic. I had plenty of opportunity to compare the two types. GAS: No reserve, but as noted, there is a low fuel light, in the row of lights that includes the neutral light and the high beam indicator. You ought to be getting over 50 m.p.g., so you can estimate your 'range' from that. I usually fill up again around the 180 mile period. I think I've seen the low fuel light once in 6 years of ownership. OH: I suggest you treat the gas, on a regular basis, with 'marine' Stabil, not the regular stuff. I have had a 'gummy' Yamaha Virago 250 to care for, that I thought would never clear its fuel problems. Last winter ('08-'09) stored it with the marine Stabil in the tank and run for a while to get it into the carbs also. Within a few minutes of running it this spring-actually a couple weeks ago- it smoothed out and has run fine since. I believe this HAS to be as a result of the treatment of the fuel (run through the carbs before the winter storage) with this special Stabil. It was recommended by Carlo at Riverside- I'll have to remember to thank him for the advice. N.B. I always change the fuel (siphon it out, put that Stabil'ed but 'old' stuff into my car tank, refill the bikes with fresh 93 octane) each Spring.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
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