Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, when checking for spark the CKP needs to measure the compression bump in order to send the correct signal to the ICM/ECM so always check for spark with either a third plug grounded or lift the end of the plug boot 1/2 " off one of spark plugs that are in the head. and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty
2. Fuel supply valve turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Fuel valve or filter clogged.
6. Vacuum hose to automatic fuel supply valve disconnected, leaking, or pinched.
7. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery connections.
8. Loose wire connection at coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, spark plug cable connections loose,
or cables connected to wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module, or sensors " Manifold Absolute Pressure" "Camshaft Position Sensor" "Crank Position Sensor" "Brake Apply Sensor
11. Engine lubricant to heavy ( winter operation )
12. Sticking or damaged valves or push rod wrong length.
13. Primary cam sproket spline sheared or missing spacer.
14. Security alarm system not disarming.
For a primary suspect please visit the website below: Good luck
Harley Diagnostic Codes 04 to Present
Set Change Override Transport Harley Security Alarm PIN Code No Key Fob...
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: oil drain plug
its not a plug its a hose look under the tank on the pipe side, look for the hose thats goes to the bottom frame rail (tube) thats the drain hopes this helps
Posted on Jan 01, 2009
first take off the brake caliper takes a 10 mm socket..Next jack front of bike up just enough to take pressure off front tire...take off the axle nut lbit more to take pressure off axleock washer and flat washer...Next remove two axle support nuts from the right side of bike 1/2 in socket. now jack bike up a hair more to releave pressure off axle push, hammer with a rubber hammer or what ever it takes to drive it through. jack bike up so it clears fender. Sometimes the tire won't clear the fender bolts if so just release air from tire and it will clear. good luck. Its not hare at all.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
SOURCE: oil drain plug
Its at the back of crank box right hand side of bike attached to bottom of frame in a sprung clamp just before the softtail swingarm- black hose with a plug and hose clip
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
To change the switch, first unplug the wires at the switch. Screw the old switch out and install the new switch into the tee connector. Do not depress either brake lever while the switch is out. Tighten the switch and reconnect the wires.
Usually you don't have to bleed any air out of the brake system but check the rear brakes for proper operaion. If the rear brake pedal goes too far down, bleed the brakes at the rear caliper. Make sure you don't run the rear brake master cylinder dry while bleeding the rear brake. Use only the approved type of brake fluid, do not mix the different types of fluid. Make sure the rear brakes are working properly before riding the bike.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Get the bike standing as straight up as you can without danger of it falling over. This keeps any oil from running out of the primary. Remove the "derby cover" from the outer primary cover giving you access to the clutch adjuster screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate in the primary.
On the clutch cable, slide the rubber boot up or down to expose the adjuster in the cable. It should be on the down tubes of the frame under the fuel tanks. Loosen the lock nut and screw the cable adjuster in as far as it will go thus shortening the cable.
At the clutch back in the primary cover, you'll see a screw that takes a hex allen wrench with a lock nut on it in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and back it off a bit. Screw the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. You want to adjust this in until you feel a resistance, not to the point to where it starts releasing the clutch. Back the screw back out and do this enough times so that you know you are just going to the point of resistance. Turn the screw inward until you get to the point of resistance and then back the screw out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the nut down.
Now, adjust the clutch cable adjuster out making the cable longer You want to adjust the cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the cable lock nut and slide the rubber cover over the adjuster. Test ride the bike. If the clutch does not engage exactly where you want it, use the cable adjuster to fine tune where the clutch engages by lengthing or shortening the cable.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
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