I worked on a bunch of these bikes back when they were new and I was working at Mathews Honda in D.M. Iowa. Bear in mind that was 30 years ago. IF I recall correctly. . . . .
First, the points only open and close. Other than that they don't move. The points are adjusted for gap by being moved L and R then locking down in place with a screw.
Assuming you have a good set of points, set the point gaps to 15 thousandths. The timing is set by rotating the base plate the points are mounted on. Behind the plate is a centrifical advance. Get an inductive pickup timing light and hook it up to the battery. Hook the pick up on the left
sparkplug wire.
Start the motor and point the light at the top of the gearbox flywheel. Yes, with the cover removed some oil will spit out. This is normal. Rev the bike and you will see the timing marks. You will also see a static timing mark on the casing. Rotate the points base plate to line up the marks. When you let off the gas the flywheel marks should move counter clockwise. If they don't, then remove the points cover and free up the
centrifical advance mechanism. You just timed the engine.
The photo will not open in "FixYa". Email it to me at
tombones49@gmail.com. Would you like to know how to
synchronize and balance the carbs?
Include your phone number in the email.
Comments:
Mar 30, 2009
- Email that photo to me. The bike should open and close the points on it's own. I want to see what you have going on. You have a kick starter. Let's not worry about the electric starter right now.
The original reply would not take all the data I wanted to send so I have it below. I am working for a 4 diamond rating here.
SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both carbs. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each carb such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other carb.
With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other carb so that the slide on that carb just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both carbs begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.
BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT carb one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT carb one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Turn the idle screw on each carb EXACTLY ONE QUARTER turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just synchronized and balanced your carbs.Mar 30, 2009
- First, go get a new oil drain bolt. Lay the bike on its' right side. Now get a medium size hammer and a punch. Place the punch on the outer rim of the old plug then put the punch at about a 30 to 45 degree angle, pointed in the direction you want to turn the plug. Strike the punch to turn the plug around the arc of the plug diameter.
There is no oil filter in the way that you normally think of a filter. This engine has a centrifugal oil filter on the end of the crankshaft on the right side of the motor. Think of it this way; Pretend you could cut an egg in half and then bolt the egg to the end of the crankshaft. The crank shaft spins and the egg half spins with it. Oil in the gearbox gets into the egg while it is spinning and the heavy particles of dirt in the oil get thrown against the inner wall of the egg. The dirt particles build up on the inner wall of the egg. That is the oil filter on your bike. When the right side cover is removed, exposing the clutch and crankshaft, all you do is scrape and wipe the inside wall of the filter to clean the filter. Simple and no new filters to pay for. Further filtration is done by simply changing the oil.
Expert
