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1991 FLSTC battery not charging while being ridden.Battery holds charge after charging battery.Stator checked with volmeter,is working.Battery will comepletly discharge while riding.Anyone know what is wrong?

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  • Expert
  • 89 Answers

Electrical problems are best taken to the shop unless you want to take a chance on frying the electrical system.

Posted on Jul 13, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2001 yamaha r6 keeps going dead! Stator,regulator or something?

you need to check for a short if its not that then it could be your altinator or a regulator box

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Battery drained while riding

chek your connection where the alternator plugs into your engine casing & spray it with electrical contact cleaner

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

SOURCE: battery not holding a charge,

Check the charging rate of your bike, see if its system is charging, if it does charge thn theres somewhere the battery is getting drained out.
In order to see if tht is happenning, switch off everything and thn remove one battery wire on the battery, after doing so try to fix it back and notice if theres any sparks when it comes to the contact of the battery terminal , if so thn theres a drain somewhere in the electricals and wiring.

Good luck.
Knight (Yamaha Seca XJ750A 1981)

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

sodeep
  • 3267 Answers

SOURCE: battery wont charge more than 12.25 at 2000 rpm

Check the rectifier, its responsible for charging the battery when running, the fuse too, however the rectifier if it can not be repaired, better to buy a new one......................sodeep

Posted on May 26, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Stator/alternator question

my 2000 ultra keeps frying stators - why ?

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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Battery dies on 03 yamaha after being ridden, battery wont hold charge..have replaced battery, stator, and regulator. wiring harness problem?


no not wiring harness! Unless the stator connector is unplugged.
check to make sure the charging fuse is not blown. Should be a 20A or 30A fuse.
When the bike is running test the battery to see if it is charging, should be between 13.25 volts and 14.5 volts.

Apr 04, 2014 | 1999 Yamaha TDM 850

1 Answer

2007 flstc charging system


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

Feb 19, 2013 | 2007 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

Gsx r 750 1998. Battery holds charge when riding with lights off. But not with lights on. Stator or rect/reg??


Definitely a charging issue. Always check the battery first, I prefer a gel cell battery over acid. Battery must be good and strong to charge properly. This charging system is so small , it only operates enough to maintain battery voltage. Normally it wont charge a weak battery, so start there first. you can check the voltage coming from the stator, at 3k RPM you should be getting around 60-80 volts per leg. If each stator leg checks within these results, it will be a good stator. The reg/rect is not something I can tell you how to check on the bike. We have a stand alone system here where we bench test them off the bike to eliminate the rest of the system to test Just the reg/rect.
I have these stators here new also have the reg/rect, both have a one year warranty. If you need more help let me know. Thanks

Feb 21, 2012 | 1998 Suzuki GSX-R 750 W

1 Answer

Have replaced the alternator and new battery in my 1999 Ford Tarus, worked great for two months. Now back to the same problem. Battery will not hold a charge more than six hours


You'll have to put a volmeter on the battery when the engine is running. The voltmeter should read between 14 and 14.5 volts. If not the alternator is not charging. Could be a defective alternator or a wiring problem.

Dec 11, 2011 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

94 flstc. On first start-up, 35 AC stator, 14.5 v off battery. About 15 minutes into ride, lights dim to near nothing, battery always needs a charge after even a short ride. Regulator?


It sounds to me to be the battery. if you have a digital volt meter charge up your battery and first with the bike off check your voltage at the battery if this is between 13 and 14.5 volts that's a good voltage (but the cca ((cold cranking amps)) can be off) after you've gotten your voltage start the bike and test for voltage at 3000 rpm or 10% throttle if the voltage is over 16 volts or has not changed and starting to drop, check the connection to the stator and regulator located at the front of the primary chain case on the inner primary and that the long single wire from the regulator to the battery is good check 3000rpm voltage again if this did not fix the problem then you may have a problem with your voltage regulator.

Nov 14, 2010 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson FLSTC...

1 Answer

Battery wont hold a charge. Testing stator n regulator/rectifyer both checked out ok. connectors look good along with wires. pulled stator out to check it visually also... looks like new. Im puzzled?


Have you put a meter across the battery to check its charging? I would expect to get 13.5 volts plus if the charging sytem is working.
It sounds like you have done all the good checks, but what about the battery itself? A failing battery can drag the charging sytem down. I would charge it up and ask a shop to load check it, or keep it off the bike and monitor if its holding charge for a few days. If it drops below 12 volts, it had it.

Sep 15, 2010 | 2007 Triumph Daytona 675

1 Answer

Replace the Battery and Regulator but still not holding a charge. Stator was check and is ok.


The very first thing to do is to take the battery to an automotive parts house. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery isn't up to par, it won't hold a charge.

Now, with a fully charged battery, connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to the battery. Red lead of the meter to the positive post, black meter lead to the negative post. Put the meter's function switch in "DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT or greater range". Start the bike and bring the engine to a high idle. The meter should build up rapidly to read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. If it does not. Move on to the stator.

Down on the left side of the engine cases, find and unplug the plug for the voltage regulator. Look down into the plug in the engine case. You'll see to metal contacts. You are going to put your meter leads on these contacts. First, change the setting on your meter to "AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater". Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Put one meter lead on each metal contact down in the plug. It make no difference which lead goes to which contact because we are measuring in AC voltage. Your meter should read at least 30 volts or more. If not, your stator is not up to snuff.

If your stator is putting out enough voltage and the battery is getting 14.5 volts or better, it would appear that your charging system is working as designed. Now, that doesn't mean that it is ALWAYS working as it should. I fought a charging system on a 1991 FXR once for months. It would do fine most of the time but every once in a while, the battery would be dead. Even after a good ride it would be dead. We never could "catch" the charging system messing up. The owner finally got disgusted and had me change the entire system, stator, rotor, and regulator. No more problems. I would guess that the stator or regulator had an intermittant short or open circuit in it somewhere. At any rate, the entire thing went into the recycle bin.

Good Luck
steve

Aug 25, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider

2 Answers

Battery will not charge


To check your charging system, first, you must have a fully charged battery in the bike. Start the bike up and using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) put the red lead on the positive post and the black lead on the negative post. Put the meter in DC Volts, 50 volt range. Idle the bike up a bit and you should read about 14.5 to 14.8 volts.

If you don't get anymore than 12.6 volts at the battery. Go to the left side of the engine and pull the connector for the stator at the front of the engine. Put your meter in AC volts, 50 volt range. Touch one meter lead to one pin and the other to the other pin. It makes no difference which lead goes where just don't allow the lead to touch the engine case. Your meter should read 25-35 Volts AC at this point. Notice the AC, not DC, voltage at the stator. Make sure your meter is in DC at the battery test and AC at the stator test. If you have less than 15 volts at the stator, your stator is bad. If the voltage is where it should be at the stator, you voltage regulator is probably bad.

Good Luck
Steve

May 29, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

HD 89 FLSTC misfires using turn signals..


I definately would think it is something within the charging system. Here is a few tests you can run. First with the bike off take a multimeter in VDC check the battery voltage at the battery. (should be at 12.5 VDC) If not first charge the battery. Second start the bike, with it running and multimeter again in VDC check voltage at the battery while slowly opening the throttle(should see between 13.2 and 14.5 VDC at the battery) If you have more then 15 VDC then you have a bad voltage regulator. If you have less then battery voltage from the first test. You may have a bad stator and/or a bad voltage regulator. Third test with bike turned off and multimeter in continuity. Place one meter lead into either of the two holes for your stator lead(coming out of the front of the primary drive case) the other meter lead to any good ground. If you get a tone or continuity then you have a grounded stator, and it has to be replaced before proceding any further with charging system tests. If you do NOT have continuity then check the wires from the voltage regulator running back to the battery for any breaks or chaffing, if none are found. I would have the battery load tested as well. It also sounds like you could have a short in the turn signal wiring, maybe check the wiring inside the rear fender for chaffing as well. I personally think you'll find its an issue with the charging system itself though. Good luck and please let me know what you find out.

May 06, 2009 | Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage...

2 Answers

Battery drained while riding


Sounds like you either have corroded wires going to your battery or your alternator is not properly charging the battery. Get the bike to an autozone and ask them to put their tester on it.

please mark this as a fizya! thanks

Mar 12, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

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