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Does any one know if there is another stator that will fit my 96 KTM 250 sx Thanks, search online stator rewinds, and get a price for one to be re wound.
Examine each individual coil head on the stator for black marks, indicating burned wires. Carefully cut the protective rubber coating from each damaged coil with a utility knife.
Study the direction the wire is wrapped around the coil head to determine if the top or bottom end of the wire is attached to positive or negative terminal clip. Remove the terminal clips from the base of the damaged coil heads with a Phillips screwdriver.
Unwind the damaged wire from the stator head with your fingers. Clean the surface of the head with a piece of fine-grade steel wool and wipe the head clean with a lint-free cloth.
Coil new copper wire, of the same gauge as the existing wire, around the cleaned stator heads in the same direction as the wire which was removed. Coil the wire tightly on the heads so there are no spaces or gaps between the wire wrappings, leaving 1-inch lengths of wire at the top and bottom of each head for attaching new terminal leads.
Crimp new terminal leads to the ends of the new copper wire with a pair of pliers. Attach the terminal leads to the stator with the Phillips screwdriver.
Set a multimeter to the DC "1X" or "ohm" setting. Touch the black meter probe to either of the main leads of the stator and then touch the red meter probe to the remaining main lead of the stator. Any reading on the meter confirms continuity of the wires, indicating the stator is functioning properly. If there is no reading on the meter, recheck the connections.
Coat the new wire with liquid rubber and allow the rubber to set according to the product directions.
Hi, James before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage Suzuki Vs 1400 intruder S83 test alternateur low voltage charging check AVI http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/VS-1100-chagre-syst.pdf Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual OEM parts for Suzuki Suzuki VS1400 Owner Manual
Check the wiring on the connector plugs make sure all the wires are the same color on both sides, red to red blue to blue and so on. I had the same problem After replacing a stator and just plugging it in,after two weeks a new cdi and coil i noticed there were two wires transposed.
It would seem resonable to think if the wire is the same colour to conect new for old,HOWEVER this would only be the case if the stator is of exactly the same model of bike as yours, and each colour wire goes to the same place on the stator as your orriginal