Question about 2005 Harley Davidson FLHRS - FLHRSI Road King Custom

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How do i replace fork lock - 2005 Harley Davidson FLHRS - FLHRSI Road King Custom

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Posted on May 23, 2015

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1 Answer

Exposed view of fork lock removal on 1998 flhrci harley davidson


Hi Anonymous, please be aware that this question has already been asked and answered. Thank you

Apr 08, 2013 | Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic...

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My 98 dyna low rider I'm trying to remove and replace the fork lock cylinder and I have the and the lock works. I have removed the set screw and cylinder will only move out a little bit. Do I force it out...


You have to loosen the upper triple clamp pinch bolts and remove the upper triple tree and handlebars. Loosen the fork stem bolt and let the fork stem drop down approx. 5 inches. Then your lock will come out.

Note: On the left side of the steering stem there is a "half-moon" indentation that has been machined into the steering stem for the lock. Let the steering stem drop until this indentation is in full view.

Right out of the book.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 08, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider...

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How do you split the forks to replace seals


look for the allen screw on either end of the fork, that is the mail lock that holds the fork together, once loose you can pull the damper out of the coil

Dec 30, 2009 | 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 650

1 Answer

Replace damaged front fork lock on a 1996 harley davidson FXDS-CONV.


Ok, this is how you replace the lock on the front end.

1.Loosen upper triple tree clamp pinch bolts. Remove upper triple clamp and handlebars.

2.Loosen fork stem bolt and let fork stem drop down approx. 5 inches.

Note: On the left side of the steering stem there is a "half moon" indentation that has been machined into the steering stem for the lock. Let steering stem drop until this indentation is in full view.

3. Use a scribe and remove lead plug. (there is a flat looking place below the key lock. The lead plug is underneath this and it hides a set screw. Dig the lead plug out to get to the set screw)

4.Unscrew the set screw

5.Insert key in lock and turn partially.

6.Wiggle lock and pull until enough of the lock comes out to get a grip with pliers or other suitable tool.

7.Rotate steering stem slightly, while pulling on lock until lock is removed.

INSTALLATION

General
There is an internal boss in the left side of the steering head opposite the external boss. The end of the lock fits into this internal boss.

There is a hole in the bottom of the lock into which the set screw fits. This hole must be at the bottom when the lock is installed.

When the lock is correctly installed, a forward-facing flat on the lock will fit against a flat inside the external lock boss and the face of the lock will be flush with the face of the external boss.

1.Steering stem should be in above position. See steps 1 and 2 above.

2.Grease the end of the lock (the part that goes into the internal boss) and slide lock into external boss.

Note: Steering stem must be in locked fork position.

3. Move steering stem into locked fork postition. Rotate steering stem sligtly, while fully installing lock.

4.use Loctite 242 (medium strength blue) and install set screw

5.Use key in the lock and tighen set scrw until lock begins to bind; then back set screw out 1/2 turn.

6.Pound in lead plug (or use a good quality sealant)

7. Install fork stem, upper triple clamp and handlebars.

Right out of the book. Hope it helps. Good Luck.

Nov 13, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXDX Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

Locked forks no movement


Sounds like your fork bearings are locked up or the nut just below your handle bar stem is to tight.In any case taking apart the fork and do a quick inspection. Regrease or replace your bearings and your back on track. Excuse the pun.

Oct 19, 2009 | Cycling

2 Answers

How do i change fork seals on a Kawasaki gt 550 89' and or chec and add oil


Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?


Sep 11, 2009 | 1992 kawasaki GT 750

1 Answer

2006 V-Rod Forks are LOCKED, the key turns, but


place 1 foot on the handle bars and push
snap the lock because the spring is broken or call a locksmith and have him disassemble the lock and replace the spring

Aug 04, 2009 | Kidkraft Harley Davidson Roaring Rocker

3 Answers

Bicycle Fork Installation


remove front wheel
undo allen screw or bolt securing headstem to fork
remove headstem and handlebars
undo lock nut & ring retaining bearings, at top of fork tube, do not lose bearings which may be loose.
withdraw fork from fork tube, do not lose upper bearing race
remove lower bearing from old fork
install lower bearing on new fork (I prefer replacing bearings)
remove brake caliper from old fork install on new fork
insert fork in fork tube
install upper bearing (I prefer replacing bearings)
install retaining ring and lock nut on fork tube, adust untill there is no wobble, but free movement, too tight the bearings will collapse too loose the rider will fall off
tighten lock nut
install headstem
tighten headstem allen key - bolt
install front wheel

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