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Unilli cx100 quad looking for accelerator cable replacement as the one in it is snapped any suggestions worldwide online or local ireland whichever thanks

No one in ordinary bike shops can help me so i was wondering would you know somewhere i can get a accelerater cable are the in anyway similiar to suzuki(i heard a rumour of this would like to clear it up)

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: i have a unilli cx100

a local dealer in galway ireland, got both for me! http://www.galwayquads.com/

Posted on May 27, 2009

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  • 375 Answers

SOURCE: Suzuki Landie FM50 parts.

Most suzi 50 scooters used the same engines - they also produced the engines for the early SR Aprilia scooters.
I have used Suzuki parts in my Aprilia, so there's no reason you shouldn't be able to do the reverse.
I just took the bits down to the Suzuki shop and compared - you could do the same to an Aprilia outlet.
There is always Ebay France/UK as well.
Anderson Vintage Parts in the US has an enormous range of FM50 FM50A parts in stock - it looks like they bought up the worlds supply!
http://www.andersonvintageparts.com

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: Engine Knock/Rod Bearing

1.No, the connecting rod is not bent from the factory.

2.Bearing is shot for that rod? No matter, as you will be replacing that rod, and the rod bearings for both rods. Doesn't make sense to replace one while you're deep in there, and it's probably in a worn out shape anyway. Besides, if that rod bearing even STARTED to spin, you'd have to have the lower end of the rod bore resized, anyway.

Observe the wear pattern of the rod bearings. Are they worn off to one side somewhat. The wear pattern should be even down the middle of the bearing. If it's off to one side somewhat, you have a twisted crank.
Sounds like somebody hit high RPM's and missed a shift! (Or wound it so tight they went way above the red zone in the tach)

3.Machine the crank? Why? Crank pin surface is damaged? You can only turn it down so much. Probably .020, (20 thousandths), to clean it up, or the crank is shot. (.030 is about a 32nd of an inch. Actually it's .0325)
If the crank pin, (Rod pin) surface is damaged, have a skilled machinist take a look, and see if it will clean up at the minimum required diameter. It's in the book.

4.Search the bike junkyards, (EXCUSE ME! Salvage yards!), for parts, and check Ebay.

5.I know you know this, but everything must be PERFECT when you reassemble the lower end. Not close -> PERFECT!! Otherwise this puppy will scatter across the road, when you hit 65 miles an hour, and 5000 grand on the tach! (When you're on the on ramp approaching the highway)

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 Suzuki King Quad Timing Specs?

I need a manual or specs how to set the timing on a 93 Suzuki King Quad 300 ATV. Timing chain broke, bought a new one, jumped time. Need help.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: '05 Suzuki Boulevard C90 sometimes won't turn

I've got a 2006 and just found this while surfing around...


Realistically, diagnosing the problem behind a bike that won't start, can be a frustrating experience, as there are many potential problems that can create the same symptoms. Here are a couple of guidelines to help determine the root of a "labored" starting problem, and by "labored", we mean that the starter motor kicks in and attemps to turn the engine over, but either can't get it over the "hump", or does so with a lot more effort than usual.

If your battery is over two years old, and you CONSISTENTLY have a labored start, then the first suspect will be the battery.

If she starts cold with no problems, but CONSISTENTLY has labored starting while hot, then the charging system should be checked. A grounding rectifier can actually discharge your battery while you ride. The battery can somewhat recover while sitting, so it may well start the bike while its cold, but then not be able to start it after only a few miles of riding.

If everything on the bike seems to be in perfect order, and you OCCASIONALLY have a labored start, or no-start, for no apparent reason, and with no perceived pattern, then very likely, the rear decomp cam is loose. A good test for this is to place the bike in second or third gear when it won't crank, and push it backwards a few inches while in gear, then try again. If it starts then, you definately have a loose rear cam. Pushing the bike backwards while in gear moves the rear piston back off its compression stroke enough to give the system a running start at it when you push the button. This will only happen when the rear cylinder stops on its compression stroke. Therefore, it seems impossible to predict when it won't start. Might be cold, might be hot, might only happen once today, but maybe three times tomorrow...This occasional no-start is the prime indicator that the problem lies with the rear decomp cam. (If the front cam were out of adjustment, it would NEVER start properly, as both cams would then be off their specs.)

---Quoted from http://www.moccsplace.com/images/decomp/decomp.htm

Posted on Feb 15, 2010

Testimonial: "I thought it might be something with the compression stroke as well, it appeared to labor. Finally replaced the starter, hasn't given me a problem sin"

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