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Hi i have a zzr 1100 and had the back wheel lock on me after which i couldn't select a gear . Cant select a gear now or neutral the chain has gone really slack and when i rotate the back wheel with the clutch in there is a tight spot in the 'gearing' how costly is this going to be ? bike is a 1995 plate.
I have been a bike mechanic for over 10 years and never seen this one before. The only thing I can even think of is a broken shift fork. This would let a slider gear wander freely and potentially engage a gear while the bike is already in a different gear. This would account for the rear wheel lock up. The 'tight spot' would probably be a torqued and twisted shaft resulting from the lock up.
The repair will be major surgery on the tranny. Personally, I would replace all shafts, all gears and all shift forks. You don't know and can't just look and see what stress has been put on any individual gear. I would hate to see you put in a few gears, put the engine back in the bike, then find a stressed gear dropping a couple of teeth the first time you hit second. To put it another way, get a new tranny and a new chain. The chain was stressed also. Sorry about the bad news.
Ask the dealer what the cost would be to replace the entire tranny but not the clutch. Now Google ' salvage motorcycles kawasaki ' and see what an entire used engine would cost. Chances are the engine swap that you can do yourself will cost less than the dealer's repair of the current tranny.
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Is it the wheel bearings or is it the transmission? You will need to raise up the back of the bike to see if the wheel spins. Check the gears are in neutral. you may have to loosen the wheel aligners and push the wheel forward to remove the chain. With the chain off, if the wheel is still stuck, it could be wheel bearings, If it turns freely, I would say your transmission or primary gears have locked up.. Also, check and make sure the rear brake has released..
It is not necessary to release the alignment adjusters to remove the rear wheel so you need have no fear about that.
The first thing I do is put the bike on the centre stand with an inch thick plank of wood under the stand to give a bit of extra clearance when removing the wheel.
The only tricky thing is having the appropriate tools to undo the axle nut. If you don't have the original tool kit you will need to go and do some shopping for large allen keys.
Now all you have to do is remove the two retaining clips, slacken and remove the axle nut and pull out the axle - it can help to tap this from the nut end with a piece of broom handle or similar, and another pair of hands can be useful as the rear wheel is not light weight and needs a little manoeuvring.
Lift off the chain and hang it on the swinging arm and the wheel can be lifted out. Take care not to rest the wheel on the brake disc!
FIRST REMOVE 3 BOLTS ON CLUTCH ACTUATOR FROM LEFT SIDE ON FRONT CHAIN COVER THEN REMOVE4 BOLTS FROM CHAIN COVER WIGGLE BACK AND FORTH WITH PULLING PRESSURE AND IT SHOULD COME OFF
Since your engine has a horizontal split in the crankcase, the top end does not need to be torn down. Yes, a bent shift fork is likely to be the problem. Before going too far, first check the index wheel and spring on the end of the shift drum. The mechanism may be loose and/or the spring broken. If you are lucky, you may not need to split the case. Please rate my answer. Thanks!
have you checked your chain tension because that can cause it to clonk if to slack and also check the condition and play in your cush drive rubbers on the back wheel
Assuming the clutch is operating properly the problem sound like it lies in the gear case, possbily a worn or bent shift fork, sorry but it sounds as if you will need to split the cases.
Tom
After taking the transmission/frame apart, the drive chain for the tires broke and wedged in the case. I cleaned the rest of the gear box and washed all of the gears and sprockets. Ordered up the chain, gasket and grease. I re-installed and greased all of the pieces and reassembled the case. I used a marine wheel bearing grease for the water resistant properties. I installed a zerk fitting right over the shifting lever. This should help keep the grease on the top end of all the gears. After a few hours it is good to go and works just like new.
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