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I'm not getting any fluid from the master cylinder not any where I've tried everywhere to bleed the lines and no fluid is coming out anywhere

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Did you crack the line right at mater to see if fluid if none there chances are mater is no good

Posted on Jul 10, 2013

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SOURCE: My front Master Cylinder doesn't work. I've already tried bleeding the brakes and there's no pressure even drawing the fluid through the line. Any ideas on how to fix this?

I'm going thru the same thing...I blew air in the line with pressure and the caliper worked...open heart surgery master cylinder and caliper and no signs of wear and tear...to me its like if the master cylinder doesn't have enough pressure to push the brake fluid......my conclusion ..faulty master cylinder...

Posted on Apr 18, 2012

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Brake bleeding


first gotta bleed the master..do this .. disconnect those lines going out and put the hoses for bleeding the master on..fill the chambers to almost full..push the pedal down and up s;lowly until no bubbles come up out of the hoses.dont push the pedal hard because the fluid will shoot everywhere.this takes a few minutes..and 2 people..get the willing partner to work the pedal.. its much easier that way. then work your way to the wheels doing the furthest one first.

Dec 22, 2013 | 1985 Mazda RX-7

1 Answer

Rear breaks not working I've tried bleeding over and over and the rear still isn't getting fluid I changed the hose also on the caliper I changed still nothing can someone tell me if its the metal lin


Its possible that the line has rusted. Diconnect the line working your way to the master cylinder. See if you start getting fluid. Or you could have something blocking the line at the master cylinder.

Feb 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wont go into gear


Did any fluid come out? It has to have fluid reach the slave cylinder, and when bleed valve is open and clutch is pressed, fluid should squirt out. Open the valve and pump the clutch until fluid is forced down into the slave cylinder. Keep topping up the clutch master cylinder so it won't run dry.
Post back if still having problems. There is a tool at auto parts stores for pressure bleeding brake lines and clutch lines. It forces fluid into the lines by pressure. If nothing works, your clutch master cylinder may have failed. Take the line off at the slave cylinder and see if the master cylinder is working to push fluid through the line.

May 10, 2012 | Hyundai Motor 1997 Tiburon

1 Answer

Brakes will not bleed


If you can't bleed them in the normal manner, there are kits available at parts stores that force fluid into the lines by pressure somehow. I don't know about cost, or exactly how they work.
Here's what I did on my troublesome Celica. Use a tube (3/16?) off the bleeder valve and put the end in a jar, about half full of brake fluid. The end of the tube has to be submerged in the fluid. Open the bleed valve and have someone tirelessly pump the brakes until only fluid and no air comes out. Keep checking the reservoir that it doesn't run out of brake fluid. Once you get the fluid flowing out, then you can bleed in the normal manner: open valve, helper starts slowly pushing pedal to floor, close valve when pedal is at floor, and repeat-till you get the air out. Hope this works for you, but if not, you may want to look into that kit I mentioned.

Apr 12, 2012 | 1997 Buick Skylark

1 Answer

My front Master Cylinder doesn't work. I've already tried bleeding the brakes and there's no pressure even drawing the fluid through the line. Any ideas on how to fix this?


I'm going thru the same thing...I blew air in the line with pressure and the caliper worked...open heart surgery master cylinder and caliper and no signs of wear and tear...to me its like if the master cylinder doesn't have enough pressure to push the brake fluid......my conclusion ..faulty master cylinder...

Apr 04, 2012 | 2000 Yamaha V Star Classic

1 Answer

I have a 03 ford taurus the break pedal gose to the floor after changing the rear breaks and the front pads and after changing the master cylinder? what else could b the problem


You've done major work and now you'll need to completely bleed air out of the system, to get the fluid to go all the way through. You may also need to adjust the rear brake shoes.

First, bleed the Master cylinder to get fluid through it. This should have been done before installation. Loosen the lines at the M. Cylinder and fill up the reservior with brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal slowly with the cover on the M. Cylinder to prevent fluid from splashing out. Once you've got fluid coming through the M.Cylinder, tighten the brake lines at the M. Cylinder.

Bleeding the brakes is a 2 person operation. You always bleed the brake the farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, the next, and finally the drivers front brake which is the closest to the M. Cylinder.

If you are unfamiliar with this process, you need to remember that you can't let the brake fluid get low in the M. Cylinder, or you have to start all over when air gets back into the lines.

When one person pumps the brakes, after several pumps hold the pedal down as far as it will go and keep pressing to the floor as the other person loosens the bleeder valve. Don't let off of the pedal before tightening the bleeder valve. Then repeat until all of the air is gone.
Teamwork and communication. Both of my wives were able to assist me in bleeding brakes.

You will have to add fluid and repeat this process until you have a firm pedal.

One man bleeder valves work if used properly, but who tells you what is happening at the other end while you're pressing the pedal?

Good luck.

Mar 28, 2012 | 2003 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I have a 1994 GMC Serra i had a brake line that started to leak for the back brakes so i replaced the whole line from the front to the back and i went to bleed the brakes for the back i had a helper pump...


If you have replaced the line from the front to the back, there is a lot of air in the line. The proper way to bleed the brakes (for the average guy with no shop) is to;

#1, OPEN the bleeder screw,
#2 THEN have your friend push the brake pedal down fully to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN. Then you
#3 CLOSE the bleeder, so no air can enter the line from there,
#4 THEN have your friend let the pedal up after you have closed the bleeder screw.

Repeat this process untill you have fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. Remember, after your friend has pumped the brakes a few times, the fluid level in the Master Cylinder's reservior will
go down, and you need to refill it as the fluid gets pumped into the line. Do not let it go empty, or you will have to start all over again. Every time the brakes get pumped, the fluid will only go down the line a few inches, so you will have to do this Procedure many times, like 15 or so.

Once you get the fluid coming out of the bleeder screw, do the bleed procedure a couple more times, until there IS NO AIR left in the system and all that is coming out is fluid with NO bubbles.

You MUST do BOTH sides, right AND left of the rear, as there is only a single line to the rear, which splits into two above the axle, and now there will be air in both sides. Then, tighten the screw, top off the master cylinder, and you are done.

If you simply opened up the bleeder screw, and then pumped the brakes with it open the whole time, the master cylinder simply pulled air back into itself every time you let the brake pedal up, resulting in no fluid being pumped into the line.

Also, if the master cylinder ever was EMPTY, then you may have to bleed the cylinder itself. This is done by disconnecting the brake line (rear brake, the one you just had off) from the cylinder, and putting a hose from the line inlet in a small loop back into the master cylinder's reservior. Then, pump the brakes. The cylinder will then pump the fluid directly back into itself. The idea is that you do not let the master cylinder pull any air back into itself, from the line inlet. So, as the cylinder pumps out the air, the only thing it can get back in is FLUID. Do this until there are no more bubbles coming out of the line.

Then perform the above-mentioned Bleeding Procedure. If you do the Bleeding Procedure correctly, and the fluid level in the master cylinder does NOT go down, and you are still not getting fluid to the bleeder screw, then that will tell you that you have to bleed the Master Cylinder.

Good Luck To You.

Jun 21, 2011 | 1994 GMC Sierra

2 Answers

I have a 1987 hyundai stellar that the brakes ar,nt working on.I have changed the master cylinder but they still do,nt work.I,ve tried disconnecting the two lines coming out of the master cylinder to bleed...


you will have to remove the master and bleed it on the bench, connect lines from the ports into the master fluid, then bleed , then install the master and bleed it at the lines, still no pedal, bleed the system completely

Dec 04, 2010 | 1987 Hyundai Excel 4-Door

3 Answers

Air in the brake line - we bleed the brakes and get the air out, but it comes back. The master cylinder has been replaced two times. where is the air coming from?


Check brake caliper piston seal or wheel cylinder, leaking bleeder screw, ABS unit, brake line fittings, those are just a few points at which air could be entering the hydraulic system.

Good Luck !

Feb 11, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

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