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you should have two fuel filters on that car one under the car on the fuel line it sounds like its not getting fuel right when did this start after the plug and wire change or after the timeing or after the fuel rail thing have a fuel pressure test done on it
the engine is either not getting fuel, or is not getting spark. with the ignition key in the "run" position, listen under the rear of the car (near the fuel tank) for the sound of the fuel pump. or, after cranking on the starter for a while, remove a spark plug and smell it. smells like gas? if so, the problem lies in the electrical area. if not, fuel is not getting to the engine.
bigger is not better when it comes to turbo units as Leyland found out when they fitted a turbo to a 690 diesel that resulted in the destruction of the engines and damage to the company reputation of a reliable engine manufacturer
Subsequent engineering found that a much smaller turbo produced more power without the destroying the engine
The turbo fitted to the engine originally is the correct unit for the maximum power that the engine mechanicals can handle
What you have to do is to ensure that the variable vanes of the turbo are working correctly and there are no boost pressures lost from intercooler leaks and loose hoses
Run the fault codes to determine sensor and actuators for the existing turbo are fully operational
The Garrett turbo-charger is notorious for leaking oil into the intercooler, and, into the emissions system. This happens because the bearing wears in the turbine assembly, and dumps lubricating/cooling oil into the combustion and intercooler system. It also ruins all of the rubber hoses that come in contact with the oil.
A result of this, after thousands of miles of driving: Your catalytic converter is clogged. The backpressure from the clogged exhaust increases the manifold temperature to cherry hot!
When I had my Volvo service and sales business, I lost money on only one Volvo; a turbo-charged 1988 wagon! A friend of mine who made his living salvaging Volvos had similar experiences with turbo-charged 240's and 740's. I hate to break the news to you my friend, but you will need to spend lots of money on that vehicle.
Trust me, do not try to fix it as it's a black hole---$700-900 for the rebuilt turbo ($250 for the rebuild kit), $200-300 for the catalytic converter and on and on! When I bought that vehicle from the original owner, It had a stack of repair receipts an inch thick!
The only recommendation, if you must keep and drive the car: remove the turbo-charger, intercooler, and all attendant hoses. Replace the air assembly with one from a normally aspirated B230F, and keep the airmass you just installed. Replace the catalytic converter with a good used one if you can find it.
Yes the manual for the 740 should be good enough. some of the hoses will go to different locations to the charcoal canister. and the Intercooler will probably have different pipes. Make sure you take pictures when you remove the hoses. Be careful especially around older rubber hoses on the Turbo - Intercooler system as these can be expensive to replace
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