2005 chevy impala car vibrates bad at 50 and above
Recently changed all rotors and brakes all 4 hub assemblys and 2 new axles change all 4 tires and no it vibrates around 50 mph and above.had front tires rebalaced on fron side and back side . the rears were only balanced on the inside of rims could this be the problem tires still not balanced correctly or something else.
no but have checked everything car doe not pull to ether side but i did notice that the rear struts from looking inside of trunk that the struts look like they have free play in them when you push down on car .no but have checked everything car doe not pull to ether side but i did notice that the rear struts from looking inside of trunk that the struts look like they have free play in them when you push down on car .
steering wheel does vibrate a little and no didnt have front end realigned might nee to try that steering wheel does vibrate a little and no didnt have front end realigned might nee to try that
If that does'nt help have a mechanic check your front end steering and suspension.If that does'nt help have a mechanic check your front end steering and suspension.
Do you have any steering problems? do'es the steering wheel vibrate? if you had the front end axels replaced the allignment may be off.Do you have any steering problems? do'es the steering wheel vibrate? if you had the front end axels replaced the allignment may be off.
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Is your ABS working properly? Under heavy braking the ABS should engage and 'pulse' the brakes on/off. It is normal to feel the brake petal flutter or pulse under your foot.
Under light braking there should be no pulsing as the ABS does not engage and you have changed the rotors and pads.
have tires checked and rebalanced --if rotors were cut have rechecked if new than need to check the cv axles one of the axles possible going bad-- also steering components worn or loose --also bad shock or ball joints
first you remove all the lug nuts and the wheel and tire. To get the rotor off you will need to remove the brake caliper. they are held in with 1/4" hex screws. If you don't have an allen wrench you can use a socket extension to removes these. Once unscrewed the calpet simply lifts off the rotor and the rotor is ready to come off. You will need to remove the axle nut and keeper then the rotor slides off towards you and the wheel bearings will come out with the rotor.
If equipped with an air bag, disconnect the negative battery cable and properly disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as detailed in Section 6 of this manual.
Loosen the lug nuts, then Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. Please refer to Section 8 for procedures.
Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit.
Fig. 4: Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit/rotor assembly
Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor.
Fig. 5: Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor
To install:
Assemble the disc to the hub unit and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
When installing the hub to the knuckle, use new self-locking bolts and tighten them to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Install the steering knuckle.
Lower the vehicle and check for proper brake operation.
If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.
FRONT DRIVE AXLE Manual Locking Hubs DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
Fig. 1: Three screws retain the cap to the hub body
Fig. 2: Remove the lockring seated in the groove of the brake rotor assembly
Fig. 3: Remove the hub body assembly from the brake rotor assembly
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the three screws retaining the cap and remove the cap from the hub.
Remove the lockring seated in the groove of the brake rotor assembly.
Remove the hub body assembly from the brake rotor assembly.
To install:
Replacing the front wheel bearing/hubs can be a big job for the inexperianced. Briefly...
Remove tire/wheel
Remove brake caliper assembly, do not remove brake line.
Remove caliper bracket.
Remove brake rotor.
Unplug ABS sensor.
Remove the large axle nut.
Press axle out of bearing (may need special tool)
Remove the 3 bearing bolts and remove bearing.
Removal & Installation
CAUTION
Dust and dirt accumulating on brake parts during normal use may contain asbestos fibers from production or aftermarket brake linings. Breathing excessive concentrations of asbestos fibers can cause serious bodily harm. Exercise care when servicing brake parts. Do not sand or grind brake lining unless equipment used is designed to contain the dust residue. Do not clean brake parts with compressed air or by dry brushing. Cleaning should be done by dampening the brake components with a fine mist of water, then wiping the brake components clean with a dampened cloth. Dispose of cloth and all residue containing asbestos fibers in an impermeable container with the appropriate label. Follow practices prescribed by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for the handling, processing, and disposing of dust or debris that may contain asbestos fibers.
The brake rotor can be removed without separating the caliper from the mounting bracket.
Release the parking brake.
Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly.
Hang the caliper and mounting bracket assembly from the suspension using mechanics wire.
Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (15 series).
Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (25 series).
NOTE
If the rotor is stuck to the hub, try using a slide hammer to free it.
To install:
WARNING
Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the hub/axle flange, any rust or contaminants should be cleaned from the hub/axle flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled lateral run-out (LRO) of the brake rotor, which could lead to brake pulsation.
Thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface of the hub/axle flange.
Thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface and mounting surface of the brake rotor.
Inspect the mating surfaces of the hub/axle flange and the rotor to ensure that there are no foreign particles or debris remaining.
Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (15 series).
Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (25 series).
Install the caliper and the mounting bracket as an assembly.
All the hubs on the car have the abs sensor built into the hub. The abs system has to be re set to read the sensor . The rear hub bearing if noisy should be replaced. There are wiring harnesses that connect to the abs sensor. The harnesses to each of the abs sensor should be replaced.
no but have checked everything car doe not pull to ether side but i did notice that the rear struts from looking inside of trunk that the struts look like they have free play in them when you push down on car .
steering wheel does vibrate a little and no didnt have front end realigned might nee to try that
If that does'nt help have a mechanic check your front end steering and suspension.
Do you have any steering problems? do'es the steering wheel vibrate? if you had the front end axels replaced the allignment may be off.
did you get the front end realligned after replacing everything?
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