FT500,,need exploded parts drawing of electronic start and gear drive,,to find out which way shims are placed ,thanks

This is the ring gear on the flywheel that is damaged - they can eventually wear out - however more than likely a faulty starter motor Bendix drive gear or incorrect starting can cause this damage.
You will need to remove the gearbox to replace the ring gear.
There ring gear needs to be heated to expand it for it to be replaced.

You just need to shim it properly.

Shims can be where the starter case meets the bell housing. There are not many models using shims anymore, they were used a lot in GM vehicles, not so much in Ford products.
The gear on the starter drive needs to mesh with the flywheel teeth. Sometimes a starter would rock loose in its mount and wear the starter case or the bell housing. When you try to align the 2 parts, it would throw off the mesh of the gears and teeth. The shims are usually patterned after the shape of the facing of the parts. You may need to go to the Dealer for these shims.

Solenoid Replacement

1. Remove the starter.
   
2. Unscrew the two solenoid switch (magnetic switch) retaining screws.
   
3. Remove the solenoid. In order to unhook the solenoid from the starter drive lever, lift it up at the same time that you are pulling it out of the starter housing.
   
4. Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that the solenoid switch is properly engaged with the drive lever before tightening the mounting screws.
   

Fig. 4: Exploded view of S114-605, 606B, 607 and 608SA type starters-1989-95 models (click image for zoom)

Fig. 5: Exploded view of M3T38482 type starter-1989-95 models

Fig. 7: Exploded view of S114-527A type starter-1989-95 models

Fig. 8: Exploded view of M1T60281 type starter-1989-95 models

Fig. 9: Exploded view of S114-703A type starter-1989-95 models

Brush Replacement
NON-REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

1. Remove the starter.
   
2. Remove the solenoid (magnetic switch).
   
3. Unfasten the two end frame cap mounting bolts and remove the end frame cap.
   
4. Remove the O-ring and lock plate from the armature shaft groove, then slide the shims off the shaft.
   
5. Unfasten the two long housing screws (at the front of the starter) and carefully pull off the end plate.
   
6. Using a screwdriver, separate the brushes from the brush holder.
   
7. Slide the brush holder off of the armature shaft.
   
8. Crush the old brushes off of the copper braid and file away any remaining solder.
   
9. Fit the new brushes to the braid and spread the braid slightly.

Use a soldering iron of at least 250 watts.

1. Using a light-grade solder, solder the brush to the braid. Grip the copper braid with flat pliers to prevent the solder from flowing down its length.
   
2. File off any extra solder and then repeat the procedure for the remaining three brushes.
   
3. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

When installing the brush holder, make sure that the brushes line up properly.
REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

1. Remove the starter and the solenoid.
   
2. Remove the through-bolts and the rear cover. The rear cover can be pried off with a small prytool, but be careful not to damage the O-ring.
   
3. Separate the starter housing, armature, and brush holder from the center housing. They can be removed as an assembly.
   
4. Remove the positive side brush from its holder. The positive brush is insulated from the brush holder, and its lead wire is connected to the field coil.
   
5. Carefully lift the negative brush from the commutator and remove it from the holder.
   
6. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Starter Drive Replacement
NON-REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

1. With the starter motor removed from the vehicle, separate the solenoid from the starter.
   
2. Remove the two through-bolts and separate the gear case from the yoke housing.
   
3. Remove the pinion stopper clip and the pinion stopper.
   
4. Slide the starter drive off the armature shaft.
   
5. Install the starter drive and reassemble the starter in the reverse order of removal.

REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

1. Remove the starter.
   
2. Unfasten the solenoid and the shift lever.
   
3. Remove the bolts securing the center housing to the front cover and separate the parts.
   
4. Remove the gears and starter drive.
   
5. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Hope this helps (remember to rating this answer and leave a testimonial comment) Thank you for using Fixya.

inspect fly wheel good could have bad ring gear. check torque convertor bolts they are tigth. with starter bolted up NO SHIMS push out pinion gear and check clearance at flywheel teeth . you can use a feeler gauge (ROUND DIAMETER) measure clearance between top of flywheel ring gear tooth & bottom tooth of pinion tooth on starter clearance should be 0.01-0.06inchs. can ge shim in different gauges. DONT USE MORE THAN 2 SHIMS. some times you have to shim them but not often most of the time if use shims have a flywheel issue.

Part no. 31MC800 from worldofpowersports.com

Shims, are to space the starter drive gear away from the flywheel. The shim is inserted between the engine block, and the starter. The thicker the shim, the more the starter drive gear is further away from the flywheel.

Starter housings are machined from the factory, where they were made. No two housings come out the same, for the machined pad, where the starter bolts to the engine block.
The difference is minimal, granted, but thousandths of an inch count in this area.

It's generally a trial an error situation. This is why there are shim packs. Packs of shims with varying thicknesses.
Rule of Thumb, is generally that the starter drive gear, is 3/32nd's of an inch away from the flywheel.
If you hear a metallic grinding kind of sound, the starter is too close. A thicker shim is needed.

I suspect your problem is the starter drive itself. Definitely sounds like it from your description.
Granted, when bench testing the starter drive kicks out, but the roller clutch inside the Bendix drive is no good. (Starter drive)
Suggest you take the starter back, and get an exchange.

This rebuilt starter has a bad Bendix drive.

Usually you can find the place to put the part by noticing the location of mounting holes or an obvious space on the fuser where it should go. Otherwise you might check with some of the places that sell replacement fuser assemblies. They might be able to send you an exploded view of the fuser.

Hi. Go to the whirlpool.com website, for some insane reason they don't list their mixers, enter a search for mixers, then find your model #. Look for a parts catalog. Look at the "exploded" drawings for the transmission area. There you'll notice that there are Front and Rear bearing locations. This drawing also shows the correct place for the "washer". Also, the front and back bearings may look alike, but the're not. Every part needs to be in it's correct place or damage will occur when you start it up, or when you place the machine under load. Let me guess...The original PLASTIC transmission housing broke causing damage to the worm gear assembly. If this is the case, your replacement transmission housing should be made out of metal. If it isn't, call customer service and demand that they send one. The plastic housing has no place in a Premium priced mixer, especially when they advertise that the mixer can handle heavy bread dough. Finally, check the bearing seats, when the worm gear failed it may have also damaged these seats. It happened on my Kitchenaid. Good Luck!
ricardok45

the carrier should turn easily and not stick. you may want to try reversing the shims that are on the outside of the bearing races on the ends of the carrier. If that doesn't work you will need to get some other shims to try.......you can also grind the shim down a bit to get it the right size (if you got the parts used you are best off to keep the shims with the ring gear they were originally installed with.)
If you have any more probs or need more help post a comment here and i will get back to you. Good Luck!