Question about 2008 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic
Excessive play in the clutch lever will not allow the clucth to fully disengage
Posted by Anonymous on
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Yamaha Vstar 1100 Clutch adjustment lower end
OEM parts for Yamaha
Posted on May 09, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The bike you are working on has a couple of way to adjust the clutch. Obviously the adjuster on the handlebars would be the first place but actually there is an adjustment on the other end of the cable that has a locking nut on it. You will need to loosen the nut that locks the cable and there should be another nut on the other side of the cable that you can tighten. As you tighten the nut it will take the free play out of the cable.
There is another adjustment on the inside of the clutch cover, it is on the clutch hub. The adjustment for this would be done by removing the clutch cover to access the clutch hub. On the outside of the hub there is an 12mm nut locking down a 6mm adjusting screw, the screw is adcually the first source of adjustment on initial assembly.
Let me give you the breakdown of how this works, your clutch mechanism has the hub adjustment, a ball, and a push rod that goes through the primary output shaft of the transmission. Then it goes to the actuating arm where your cable connects. The reason I'm telling you this is because often the ball in between the hub adjuster screw and the clutch push rod becomes welded to the push rod or it will actually start to come apart. When this happens your clutch adjustment goes away and you have no adjustment available through the cable or the clutch lever. Should this be your case I would recommend you take the clutch cover off, (be sure to drain the oil first), remove the six 10mm nuts securing the clutch hub, (this also holds the clutch springs in place), then you will have access to the push rod and the ball. You may have to tilt the bike over on the right side to get the push rod and ball to come out.
When you go to reassemble the clutch make sure all the adjusters are loose so you can adjust the clutch in the following sequence:
Good Luck! This is a DIY job, you wont need to take the bike to the shop if you are able to do any routine maintenance. Should you have to remove the clutch cover you will need to replace the right side, (clutch cover), engine gasket. If you take it apart I would recommend replacing the ball if it has any signs or wear, it will be blotted, this is a very cheap item that can cause much grief.
Let me know if you need any further assistance.
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
Sounds like the bike has been doing wheeles and burnouts. As the clutch plates wear the cable needs adjusting. You have reached the end of the actuating cam. New plates are your best bet.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
this happens after they sit a while, get her started, get her rolling, put her in second gear, hold the clutch in, get her up to 20 miles an hour, hold a little throttle on and slam on the rear brake, this usually will free up the stuck friction plates. If not try it a couple of times, it has always worked for me, also if that does not work for you you have to take the side cover off of the engine (clutch side) and using a flat headed screwdriver, and a zip tie to hold the clutch lever back to the handle bar, place the screwdriver in between the clutch plates and gently pry them apart from each other, on your bike I believe you have 7 friction plates and 6 steel plates. ( if you have to remove the cover go get a gasket first).
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
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