Question about Motorcycles
Don\'t know how to route the oil lines on my bike.
Bottom of oil tank to right/outside feed on pump. Inside is return line to top of tank where filter cap is. If you ran a cooler than run this line to the cooler and back to the tank. Above the pump is the large vent line. It goes to a tee fitting and than to the top of the tank and to the back/bottom of the primary. The small line goes to the back /center of the primary. It\'s the chain oiler.
Posted on May 10, 2013
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I can send you a drawing but not via this forum, you'll have to contact me directly at email@example.com . I'll send you a drawing of the slightly later model but if you have a 1979 model bike, the drawing will show you what you need. A best as I can remember, the '79 model did not have an oil filter on it. Harley did offer a "kit" with which to add the filter but it didn't come stock. Still contact me off forum and I'll scan the pic and send it to you.
Posted on Feb 13, 2011
There's only two , on the Ca. model , sitting on the bike second cylinder from left, the synching port goes to the petcock -on the carb joint nearest the block- It would be the only boot without a black cap n a spring clamp .And (it'll be a long hose) goes to the emissions can behind the air box on the right from the carb itself.(it has a plastic cover over it) Anything behind the carbs (between 1n2 then 3n4 ) is over flow tubes to the bottom of the frame.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Little tip -The only time the oil cooler will cool is when the bike is moving and when the bike is moving you don't need the oil cooler. This is from a factory harley tech.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
Lean mixtures burn very slowly, at times slowly enough to continue
burning through the power and exhaust stroke, causing a backfire when
the intake valve opens, and that flame gets a shot at the new mixture
In normal operation, as the engine slows, the fuel delivery from the main circuit falls off, and the idle circuit is supposed to take over. If the idle circuit flows insufficiently, that becomes a transition to fuel starvation.
You can try pointing an unlit propane torch into the inlet air, and see if you can get closer to an idle while supplying a supplementary fuel source. You will need to do this in a way that gets propane to both carburetor inlets, maybe rigging a Y with vacuum hoses and electrical tape...
This started with work on the carburetors, so the fuel system would be the most suspect. That, and the fact that it will run at higher RPM would seem to rule out fuel delivery.
I was looking around at photos while developing this answer (needed to know whether this was a twin or a 4-cylinder), and one resource said the idle speed should be 1,200. I don't know if that's right, but maybe 1,000 RPM is too slow for this motor to keep it together. (I do doubt that, though.)
When I wrote that last sentence, I started to second guess myself, thinking "What if the fuel shutoff(s) is/are vacuum operated, and as the bike approaches idle there is insufficient vacuum to hold it/them open?" But the I rejected that, because there is even less vacuum at cranking speeds, yet the bike starts.
Posted on Jun 26, 2010
Thirty over is nothing. I just finished a rebuilt on a 1970 model and we went 0.050" over on it. It was already at 30 over and the pistons scored.
Anyway, don't use one of these cheap Chinese made bendix's. Get an ACCEL. They may be made in China but they're better. You can't get good Shovelhead parts anymore.
Now, before you put the outer primary back on, use your hand and operate the fork that shifts the bendix into engagement with the ring gear. Does it engage like it's supposed to. You'll probably have to turn it just a bit. Now, do it again with the outer primary on. Does it still engage smoothly?
Now, here's the cause of most starter grinding problems on a shovel. The starter, ring gear, and outer primary are all out of alignment. The starter housing, the one with the big gear in it is supposed to have alignment pins in it as well as the outer primary. These pins are to ensure that the starter drive and the ring gear are properly aligned with each other. With the starter and outer primary on, you should be able to pull on the plunger of the solenoid and the starter drive engage fully and smoothly. Also don't forget the large brass washer. This keeps the drive from going too far.
If you're worried about low voltage, take the battery to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test the battery. If it drops below 10 volts, buy a new battery.
Posted on Aug 18, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 29, 2012 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles
May 10, 2017 | 1997 Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana)
Sep 05, 2011 | 1988 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan
Aug 30, 2011 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider
Aug 12, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger...
Jul 01, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider...
Jun 28, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...
Jun 27, 2011 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHT - FLHTI Electra...
Apr 12, 2011 | 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy
Aug 23, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...
446 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!