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Ignition coil wiring diagram

Changing from electronic ing to a point system - how is the simpelist way to wire it up that i can understand

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Hi Anonymous, for more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
Old Style Points for your Harley Sportster

Posted on Jun 12, 2015


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Help: 93 750 supersport wiring diagram or charging system info?

tons of Italian spice at a budget price. Mine has nearly 20k on it. I would also take tire advice if anybody has any. Since the bike is down I am going to change those too. Mostly commuting some day trips and always ride in the rain. Thanks much.We're going to need some more info. How old is the battery? The battery won't hold a charge or the charging system doesn't put enough energy back to the battery to restart it after running for a while? Check all your electrical connections battery terminals, solenoid, starter, and engine/frame back to ground. On the left engine side cover is a heavy gauge cable from the altenator. Follow that wire to some push connectors. Check around the connections for burned or brittle wire insulation. Check the regulator/recifier (R/R), aluminum block with fins, wiring as well. It wouldn't be unreasonable, on a '93, to expect that it may need a new stator and R/R.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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SOURCE: wiring diagram 1982 kawasaki ltd 750

try here for a manual

hope this helps

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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SOURCE: Ignition coil not firing.

diagrams here-might be of help.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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Posted on Jun 14, 2009

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SOURCE: ignition

I hope this diagram helps, it did me!


Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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I need a wiring diagram of a 1960 ford f-100 6 cylinder ignation coil

I don't have wiring diagram for that year.
I don't mind talking to you.
The positive side of the coil gets voltage from ignition switch, the negative side of the coil goes to distributor and ignition points on a points type system.
Some makes and models, when cranking, everything gets full battery voltage. When it starts and you release the key it springs back to the run position. In the run position, voltage to the coil may go through resistor block or resistor wire, the purpose is so the points on a points ignition doesn't have to deal with full battery voltage all the time. Helps the points last longer.
Just my opinion.

May 30, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I require simple wiring diagrams for a 1976 F150 pickup.

Use a test lite on negative side of coil, engine cranking, the lite should pulse?
It appears the vehicle has electronic ignition, There is a separate ignition module. In the wiring diagram, I can't guarantee the wire colors. The older my wirings diagrams are, it seems, the less accurate they are. I hope it is readable, If no spark, I'd check the ignition system, Check fuses--fusible links--battery connections.


Oct 02, 2016 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1980 Sportster 1000 with electronic ign, i hard wired it like a chopper, I only have generator, coil, solenoid, starter motor, on off switch, starter relay, push button start, key switch w...

Sorry, again far away from my expertise but if you have a pick up/can sensor with electronic module you should not need another electronic ignition module. I am not clear on what you do have. I also do not know why anyone would go back to points and condenser but if you did you would have to have ignition without any electronic modules. unless you tried to incorporate some kind of CDI system operated with points. I wonder if you cannot find an after market complete ignition system for what you are trying to do. I do not know how much you know or understand about primary or secondary ignition wiring or how the coil works. The coil usually has current to it at all times unless and until the points open or a transistor opens or cuts the flow of current to ground which collapses the primary current into the secondary windings which induces the high voltage to spark the plug. So, whatever system you have or devise it must do that. It must be able to control the current flow through the coil primary windings by cutting it off at the proper time to induce a spark at the correct time. Points do this by opening and transistorized or electronic ignition do this with semiconductors or transistors.

Dec 01, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Is this free information, to help the less knowledgeable? i'm replacing stock coils with a set of DC1-1 dyna coils (green) on a 1971 honda cb750K1, and installing an electronic ign. my question is as your...

That sounds right to me. Once you have fitted the dyna coils, check the bike runs before fitting any electronic ignition. Many people are quick to throw away the points and condensors, but if you are not covering high milage every year is it really needed? If an electronic ignition fails, you are stuck. Points can be cleaned up and reset at the side of the road and are far cheaper to replace.

Feb 12, 2011 | Honda CB 750 Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have a 1979 harley sportster and have switched it over to an electronic ignition module (Dyna S) dual fire. I have a drag specialties dual fire coil with two poles (for the wires coming from the...

The original wires, one blue and one white, were with the points ignition. The white wire should be the "Hot" wire. Now, look at your wiring diagram. The two white wires should go together to one side of the coil and the blue to the other. There is no positive or negative side of the coil, just two small primary winding terminals. Make sure the white wire from the ignition system is the "hot" or power wire for 12 volts. If you connect the ignition unit up backwards, it will damage it. To make sure the white wire on the bike is the hot wire, simply turn the ignition switch on and check this wire with a test light or volt meter. It should show battery voltage on it. That should be your setup, two white wires on one end of the coil and a blue wire on the other.

Good Luck

Nov 16, 2010 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

Changing from Pos ground generating system to Neg ground 1 wire alternator system. need wiring diagram. At present the minute the key is turned the engine starts tuning over. wiring had been...

It would seem best to just remove all of the original low voltage wiring completely. You won't need the 'cutout' device any more as the diodes in the alternator will replace that function. Does the ignition switch have a 'start' position? If not, then suggest finding a normally-open push button switch for a start button. Is the ignition system a points/coil/capacitor unit or a magneto. If a magneto, it needs to be grounded with a kill switch. If the points/coil system, then the key should apply power to the coil connection through a doubled resistor when running. You will also need a 12 volt battery of course. Change the starter solenoid to a 12 volt unit. The starter will draw about double the current used at 6 volts, but will likely survive if you don't 'grind' the engine. Depending on the tractor, there may be a 12 volt starter available that will fit. If you have an ammeter, it should be in series with the battery connection at the starter solenoid and the ignition, lights, and any other light loads (never in series with the large starter cable). That should cover most of your concerns, but understanding what I have written may be a concern. I don't have a wiring diagram specifically, so I hope this helps!

Sep 11, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.

If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.

There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.

All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.

Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.

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Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at .

To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.

Good Luck

Jul 04, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

2 Answers


I hope this diagram helps, it did me!


Mar 21, 2009 | 1972 Yamaha DT 360

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