Question about 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom

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Voltage regulator stator - 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 43,836 Answers

Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to:
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Posted on Jun 04, 2015


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not

First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.

To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.

To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.

Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.

I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: why is my 2006 street bob not charging

If the regulator was replaced and wasn't properly grounded it will not charge.

Posted on Mar 03, 2010

  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: my 2006 fuel injected fat

As far as I know, ALL alternators are variable output to a certain extent. Not as bad as a generator but still, if you connect a volt meter to the output of an alternator and vary the speed at which it's running, the voltage will vary. There are other voltage regulators that will work on your bike. Custom Chrome's brand is C.C. Rider and Accel makes them as well. They cost as much as the OEM regulator but in my experiences, they don't last as long either. Does made in China mean anything to you? Not trying to be a wise acre here just trying to point out that quality isn't cheap and in that area, I've had much better luck with genuine H-D parts.

Good Luck

Posted on Sep 03, 2010

  • 4565 Answers


To test your regulator, first charge your battery to full charge. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter). Connect the DVOM "across" the battery by connecting the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute or so, you're meter should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. If not, proceed to the next step.

If you are not getting the correct voltage to keep your battery charged, you need to check the output of the stator. Look on the front of the engine near the end of the oil filter and you'll see the plug from your voltage regulator plugged up there. Unplug the plug and look down into the engine side of the plug and you'll see two metal contacts. This is where we are going to test the output of you alternator. First, put your meter's function switch to AC VOLTAGE, 50 VOLT RANGE. Notice that we are testing for AC voltage as opposed to DC like we did last in the last test. This means it doesn't make any difference which meter lead goes to which contacts. Start the engine and put one of the meter's probes on each of the metal contacts. Make sure you do not touch the meter probe to each other or to the engine case. Bring the engine to a high idle and your meter should read at least 30 volts AC voltage.

If you do not have the 30 volts AC at the engine, your stator is bad. If you do have at least thirty volts at the alternator but less than 13.0 volts at the battery, your regulator is bad. Make sure your regulator is properly grounded where it bolts to the frame. I usually put one of those "star lockwashers" between the regulator and the frame on both bolts to make sure I've got a good ground. If the regulator is not grounded properly, it won't work.

Good Luck

Posted on Mar 03, 2011

  • 226 Answers

SOURCE: Battery won't charge when riding is it my voltage

If the cells are dead in the battery, it will never charge. You can go to Autozone and they will test it for free. The question would be if the battery is dead, why?? Are you just starting to ride after last season? How long has it been sitting? If sitting a while, the battery may just have died to age. If you are driving it all year, have the alternator/charging system checked

Posted on May 24, 2011

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17 hp briggs stratton

Hello there. My name is George. In regards to your problem, there are a few things you need to know. Make sure both battery cables and post are clean and tight. Also check the two bolts holding the voltage regulator onto the side of the engine. A loose voltage regulator will not have the proper grounding to function. Underneath the flywheel is a device called an stator. This stator creates an alternating current or commonly called A/C Voltage. This voltage travels to another external device called an Voltage Regulator. The voltage regulator converts the A/C voltage from the stator to Direct Current or commonly called D/C Voltage to the units battery. Using the Model, Type and Code numbers found on the valve cover, you can call any parts store and they should be able to tell you what type of charging system you have, (i,e. 10 amp, 20 amp etc.) Ask them what the A/C voltage should be coming from the stator. I believe it will be at least 28 to 30 volts a/c. You can measure this voltage by using an ohm meter set to a/c~volts. You must have the engine running full throttle when you do this test. The ideal rpms for this test is 3600.
You would need an tachometer to get it perfect, but full throttle usually gives an a/c output around 28 vac Now with the stator and voltage regulator disconnected and the engine running at full throttle, use the red and black test leads from the ohm meter and put the tips into the wire connector, red on one wire and black on the other. No, it does not make a difference which wire. Read the meter. If it shows the voltage the parts store told you (around 28vac is my guess, then your stator is doing its job. If it is giving you anything less than that the stator is bad. If it is bad, you will need to remove the flywheel to inspect it and or replace it. If its good, Turn off the engine and reconnect the stator and voltage regulator. Now find the single wire coming from the voltage regulator (its normally red) and disconnect it. This wire is the d/c voltage connection going to your battery. Set your ohm meter to d/c volts. Start the engine and let it run full throttle while you put the red test lead into the red wire coming from the voltage regulator and the black to a good ground. If you cant find a good ground then use the negative -(Black) battery post. If you read around 13 to 14 volts d/c then your voltage regulator is good and you have a shorted wire from the voltage regulator to the battery, If its bad then it will read 0 and it will need to be replaced. Feel free to contact me at: if you have any other questions. Good Luck.

Aug 20, 2013 | Briggs & Stratton Garden

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Great dane Chariot mower GDRZ25KHE

If this is a briggs engine, depending on the type of charging circuit it has, the AC voltage from the stator under the flywheel should be around 28 to 30 VAC and the DC Voltage coming out of the voltage regulator with it disconnected should be around 14 VDC.. If the voltage is lower than 28VAC from the stator then it is a bad stator. If the stator voltage is good and the regulator is putting out less than 13 to 14VDC that the regulator is bad.

Aug 16, 2013 | Garden

1 Answer

My voltage meter on dash not charging only sometimes!! It's charges!!!

This is what I would suggest before just changing the stator out. Hope this helps.Okay first step is to check voltage on battery.Most times it is a low voltage battery and easiest to fix. Checking the charging system to see if the voltage regulator or stator is bad read this...

Step 1. Normally, you'd first load test the battery,
Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.

Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.

Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.

Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).

Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.

Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).

Generally the following is true:
Check your owners/service manual for the system amp output for your bike.
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.

Oct 27, 2012 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have an 04 thundercat and the charging voltage at the battery is only about 12.2 vdc what voltage should i have coming out of the stator before regulator

Hi, Kenneth the following is a comprehensive charging system test that is guaranteed to the find issue with your system.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA YZF600R Owner Manual
YAMAHA YZF600R Owner Manual

Aug 15, 2012 | 2002 Yamaha YZF 600 R thunder cat

1 Answer

Testing voltage regulator

ENGINE OFF,UNPLUG the regulator, test continuity from each conductor to ground on the stator, if you have continuity STATOR IS SHORTED... if you test voltage OUTPUT at the stator, it should be around ten volts AC! NOT DC! per thousand RPM... THEN use a 12 volt test lite from regulator leads to ground, if ANY light happens at either lead, BAD regulator

Aug 02, 2012 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

Stayter going to voltage reg 3 wires go to what on reg

The stator only has two wires if it's an original stator. The pigtail from the stator has two wires inserted into a round plug, The regulator has three wires. There should be two short wires and one long wire. Or , two smaller wires and one larger wire. The two shorter, smaller wires go to the stator, The longer, larger wire goes to the battery from the regulator.

If your stator has three wires coming out of the engine case, it is probably a 3-phase stator which is available aftermarket. It take a special voltage regulator for this type of stator. That voltage regulator will have four wires coming from it.

Good Luck

Aug 14, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

2 Answers

My battery wont charge and I just bought it

Hi and welcome to FixYA,

Two possibilities:
  • rectifier / regulator combo (most likely);
  • corroded, burned, loose connection from the stator to the regulator (likely);
  • faulty stator (least likely).
The stator would be producing relatively high AC voltage while revving the bike. The stator output AC voltage are fed to the rectifier / regulator through 3 white wires. Check calls for testiing for the presence of the AC voltage on any pairing of the white wires before and after the connector before the voltage regulator. Check on the regulator calls for checking the battery voltage when revving the bike (14.5 VDC).

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Jan 04, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha YZF Thunder ace 1000 R

1 Answer

2001 Road Glide Harley

Your bike has a stator and a voltage regulator. On the right front down tube you will find the plug for the stator and the voltage regulator, unplug the stator from the voltage regulator and use a meter to read the out put from the stator. I don't know the value's off hand but as you rev the motor the voltage should climb. If it doesn't your stator is bad, major job. If it does measure the voltage on the battery cables, when you rev the motor they should climb to a little over 14V's.

Sep 08, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLTR-FLTRI Road Glide

1 Answer

Overcharging battery!?

If it goes over 17 then there is definitely a regulator fault, regardless of what the stator is doing. The very purpose of the regulator (it 'regulates' the voltage within limits) is to NOT allow the output dc voltage to climb when the stator output rises (normal) with increased engine rpm. In other words - by nature of way it works normally, the stator AC output Voltage will rise as the engine rpm increases - it will continue to rise all the way to peak engine rpm. The Rectifier/ regulator with its double-barrel name performs two functions: the first - rectifier - converts the AC output of the Stator to DC volts - if 'UN-regulated' the DC volts would also climb proportionally to engine rpm. But that is where the second function of the Rectifier/Regulator - the Regulator - comes in. The Regulator's job is to stop the voltage rising over a certain threshold even if the stator is trying to drive it higher. It does this by 'shunting' current to ground (short circuit effectively) in a series of pulses; this controlled operation is called regulation. The limit is going to be 15V absolute max and more typically 14.5 or so. If the output rises about this value then it absolutely is NOT regulating. Failures of the regulator where they simply don't regulate and allow full voltage to pass are rare (but not impossible) - much more likely to be short or open circuit, neither or which would give the symptom you have. It still sounds almost like you maybe wired it incorrectly? The stator is inside the left crancase cover - whether or not it has its own problems, have nothing to do with the lack of regulation causing battery volts to go to 17V.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2006 Triumph Daytona 955i

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