Question about 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
Posted on Jun 04, 2015
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.
To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.
To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.
Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.
I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
SOURCE: my 2006 fuel injected fat
As far as I know, ALL alternators are variable output to a certain extent. Not as bad as a generator but still, if you connect a volt meter to the output of an alternator and vary the speed at which it's running, the voltage will vary. There are other voltage regulators that will work on your bike. Custom Chrome's brand is C.C. Rider and Accel makes them as well. They cost as much as the OEM regulator but in my experiences, they don't last as long either. Does made in China mean anything to you? Not trying to be a wise acre here just trying to point out that quality isn't cheap and in that area, I've had much better luck with genuine H-D parts.
Posted on Sep 03, 2010
SOURCE: HOW DO I TEST MY
To test your regulator, first charge your battery to full charge. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter). Connect the DVOM "across" the battery by connecting the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute or so, you're meter should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. If not, proceed to the next step.
If you are not getting the correct voltage to keep your battery charged, you need to check the output of the stator. Look on the front of the engine near the end of the oil filter and you'll see the plug from your voltage regulator plugged up there. Unplug the plug and look down into the engine side of the plug and you'll see two metal contacts. This is where we are going to test the output of you alternator. First, put your meter's function switch to AC VOLTAGE, 50 VOLT RANGE. Notice that we are testing for AC voltage as opposed to DC like we did last in the last test. This means it doesn't make any difference which meter lead goes to which contacts. Start the engine and put one of the meter's probes on each of the metal contacts. Make sure you do not touch the meter probe to each other or to the engine case. Bring the engine to a high idle and your meter should read at least 30 volts AC voltage.
If you do not have the 30 volts AC at the engine, your stator is bad. If you do have at least thirty volts at the alternator but less than 13.0 volts at the battery, your regulator is bad. Make sure your regulator is properly grounded where it bolts to the frame. I usually put one of those "star lockwashers" between the regulator and the frame on both bolts to make sure I've got a good ground. If the regulator is not grounded properly, it won't work.
Posted on Mar 03, 2011
If the cells are dead in the battery, it will never charge. You can go to Autozone and they will test it for free. The question would be if the battery is dead, why?? Are you just starting to ride after last season? How long has it been sitting? If sitting a while, the battery may just have died to age. If you are driving it all year, have the alternator/charging system checked
Posted on May 24, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 20, 2013 | Briggs & Stratton Garden
Aug 16, 2013 | Garden
Oct 27, 2012 | Motorcycles
Aug 15, 2012 | 2002 Yamaha YZF 600 R thunder cat
Aug 02, 2012 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide
Aug 14, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy
Aug 04, 2010 | 2004 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre
Jan 04, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha YZF Thunder ace 1000 R
Sep 08, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLTR-FLTRI Road Glide
Nov 10, 2008 | 2006 Triumph Daytona 955i
99 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: