Question about 2009 Harley Davidson FXDB Dyna Street Bob
Will start up fine and run smooth at idle speed but when you give it gas engine misses and stops. What's the problem
Hi John, please be aware that this question has already been asked and answered. Thank you.
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Posted on Jun 09, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If your stock air cleaner has not been replaced you should be able to install the pipes with no adjustments. Run the bike a few miles and check your spark plugs. They should be a nice tan color. If they are too dark, your bike is running rich, too light means its running lean. Either way the ecm download from harley should fix you up. At that point you should get the screamin eagle ac kit and down load.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
Sounds like the intake manifold is leaking. The area where the leak usually happens, are those two rubber sleeves that go from the heads, (Cylinder heads) to the intake. Sometimes the clamp/s loosen up. Sometimes these rubber sleeves deteriorate, and cracks form.
This makes the engine backfire, pop, and idle fast.
The added air at the wrong time cause a backfire, when you let off the throttle. The added air causes the engine to pop, because the exhaust valve has sucked up some cold air.
The engine idles fast, because more air is being introduced, and not metered by the injection system.
(The exhaust valve thing. Exhaust valves are supposed to open, and let exhaust out right? Well there is a thing called Valve Overlap.
The Exhaust valve hasn't closed all the way yet, and the Intake valve is opening.
The 4 stroke engine, (Of which a Harley is), has these four strokes.
1.Intake Stroke. Fuel/air is sucked in.
2.Compression Stroke. The piston comes up and squeezes the fuel/air mixture.
3.Combustion Stroke. The spark plug lights the fuel/air mixture off.
4.Exhaust Stroke. The spent gases are expelled out.
Your Road King has one camshaft. There are four cam lobes on it.
Intake, Exhaust, Intake, Exhaust.
If you had the camshaft in your hand, and had the gear end facing you, look down the camshaft. You will see those egg shaped cam lobes. You will notice that No.1 cylinder Intake lobe is facing to the left.
No.1 Exhaust is facing to the right.
If you put a degree wheel on the gear end of the camshaft, and had the No.1 Exhaust lobe ramp nose facing straight up, you would see that it's about 110 degrees, before the Intake lobe ramp at .050 lift, comes into play. (The roller, of your roller lifter has raised the Exhaust valve up .050 inch) There is about 55 degrees before the Exhaust valve hasn't quite shut.
This is okay for normal running. Introduce a vacuum leak, and the surge of extra cold air, makes it pop.
Solution? I suggest checking to see if the clamps on those rubber sleeves are loose. You can also spray WD-40 towards the ends of each rubber sleeve, when the engine is idling, and see if it speeds up. Means, one or more, of those rubber sleeves has deteriorated.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
remove seat, remove console on top of tank, disconnect wiring from console to tank, disconnect vent line if present, disconnect fuel line on tank, disconnect fuel gauge (up under tank on left side, 3 wires, 4 wire connector, wires are yellow, orange, and black), remove bolt at rear of tank, remove two side bolts up front under tank (coil bracket is there also, carefully cut clamp on cross over hose located up front under tank.
This works better with three hands remove one side of cross over hose, fuel will flow freely so the extra hands are good at "plugging" the hose and the tank. Gently remove tank tilting front of tank as much as you can till you get it clear of the frame, while still tilted at a steep angle put the cross over hose back on.
To make things easier drain all fuel out of tank before reversing the process to reinstall tank. Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
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