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1996 cbr f3 bogging

I have a 96 cbr 600 f3 the issue im having is it was running great about a month ago and I stupidly took the carbs off to clean them and do a tune up well I put it back together and it starts and revs great it hits redline and everything so I went to ride it today and it ran fine in first gear and as soon as you hit second no matter what rpm it starts jerking and sputtering like its going to run out of gas if you stop it stalls it starts rite back up and does fine in first again I also put a k and n filter on it some have told me the carbs are out if sync would that cause this any help would be great thanks all

Posted by on

  • Dustin Shiflett May 05, 2013


    thanks yall going to try cleaning and syncing the again will let yall know what happens

  • Nixon Justin
    Nixon Justin Feb 11, 2017

    Did you solve the problems regarding your bike? Cause I'm having the same problems also.

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1 Answer

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  • Honda Master
  • 3,799 Answers

When you strip a set of carbs you should balance them after refitting. The kit isn't expensive and comes with instructions. It could be something as simple as the throttle cables are set up wrong(if one is opening first then the engine may work okay in 1st but bog when under greater load ie 2nd)

Posted on May 05, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: carburator problem

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand would suggest a rebuilt/clean of the carbs. A temporary workaround would be to switch off the fuel petcock, remove the fuel hose, partially drain the carbs and spray into the fuel hose (going into the carbs) injector/carb cleaner. Reinstall fuel hose, turn on fuel. Remove the air filter and start the bike. After warmup, rev while spraying injector/carb cleaner into the opening where the air filter should be. Get a hard paper/board (such as a folder) cut to a size bigger than the air filter but would fit inside the opening of the airbox. Rev/pump the bike slowly building the RPM at about 4~5K suddenly cover the opening (with the board) to fully choke the carbs while maintaining throttle. Before the engine dies, remove the cover. Spray again while revving. Repeat choking/spraying several times. The idea is for the vaccum to draw the clog/blockages.

Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

rockitman187
  • 2559 Answers

SOURCE: Bogging and stalling at high RPM's

The main jet need cleaning.(you should clean them all though)

Main Jet: Main jet comes into play at three-quarters open to full throttle conditions. CRITICAL to high-speed engine operation. Not only does it meter the gas into the engine, it can aid in cooling the engine as well.

Please rate this Fixya

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

SOURCE: My FZR 600 is acting up and backfires

I have had several bikes in my time. and keeping the carbs syncranized is very important. Did you put aftermarket pipes on it? try rejeting the carbs up 2+mm that may help the fuel air ratio?

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

rockitman187
  • 2559 Answers

SOURCE: Bike won't go over 5,000 revs when riding.

It sounds more like you have a restriction in one or more jets in the carb.



Posted on Feb 21, 2009

yeskimoe663
  • 224 Answers

SOURCE: My 1997 Honda Cbr f3 acts like it running out of gas

i have a '98 f3 stuntbike. they are very tempermental with air intake. make sure your air filter is clean and induction to the engine not clogged.

Posted on May 10, 2010

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1996 Honda CBR 600 F3 timing marks


Hi, Charlie for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1 Answer

1995 Honda CBR 600 F(3)S carburetor tuning


Hi, Mitch if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

1996 cbr 600 f3 bogging


Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.cbrfan.com/how/1726-how-carb-clean-97-cbr-600-f3.html
Carburator Theory and Tuning
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1 Answer

1996 CBR 600 F3 quits running while riding


Hi, Noor_mansoor and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-cbr-600/85825-1996-cbr600f3-runs-then-quits-running-2.html
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1 Answer

I have a 1995 cbr 600 f3. I stored it last fall and shut the gas off. Now when I start it and turn the gas on, gas pours out of a over flow line and doesn t quit unless I turn off the gas and bike the...


Floats are sticking in carbs and staying open which causes fuel to overflow.you can try tapping float bowls with screwdriver handle sometimes this will free up floats .If this dosen't work you have to remove and clean carbs.Good Luck

Apr 12, 2011 | 1996 Honda CBR 600 F(3)T

2 Answers

96 honda cbr 600 f3


hi would be good idear to also check spark and and timing also if you just got bike give it a good service this includes fuel filter

hope this helps

Jun 17, 2009 | 1998 Honda CBR 600 F(3)W

1 Answer

Cbr 600 f3 will not start


wow, 7 years without use! try to check if the fuel pump motor is still working... also check the fuel lines if its clogged.. I hope you get your bike up and running again... feel that adrenaline rush when going 100+mph.. hehehe.. have a good one bro...

May 26, 2009 | 1996 Honda CBR 600 F(3)T

1 Answer

98 CBR F3 doesn't stay running w/o choke on


There seems to be fuel starvation to the carbs.
Check the fuel filter and the petcock, not bad too to clean the carb/s.

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