Question about Yamaha Xv1100 Virago Xv 1100 1989-1998 Left Side Air Box Cover 1rm-14603-00

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Front fork lock?

I cannot find a way to lock the forks or any other place of the bike, for security.

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  • 9 Answers

Most bikes have a steering lock so turn your bars to full lock. So pull the left hand bar to the full lock position which is towards the tank, then turn you ignition key further past the off position and that should engage the steering lock. Failing that use pad locks through the holes on your disk brakes( don't forget them before you ride off) or get a chain and run it through your back wheel then through a part of your frame then around a pole or fixed place where the bike is parked and that should work

Posted on Aug 09, 2013

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1 Answer

Front forks on a 1987 Honda Goldwing motorcycle how to change them


Place bike on center stand.
Jack the front of the bike to raise the front wheel off the ground. Be careful!!!
Remove the front wheel.
Remove the front fender and cross brace.
Disconnect the brake calipers from the forks.
Remove the air connections from the fork tops.
Loosen the fork leg clamp bolts on the triple tree.
Slide each leg out of the bike. Twisting while pulling often helps.
This can also be done without removing the front wheel but you will have to elevate the front of the bike another foot or so - just disconnect the air fittings and brake calipers, loosen the clamp bolts and drop the whole front assembly.

Jul 22, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do I put front wheel on without making the forks lock up it keeps doing that when I put it on my02 cr250


Putting uneven loading on the forks(twist) may cause binding and harsh action but I haven't heard of them locking up. Try the following order of installation. position the wheel and slide in the axel. Tighten the axel, leaving the pinch nuts loose. Spin the tire and stop it a few times using the front brake. Tighten the pinch nuts. Put bike on the ground and see if forks still bind. If they do then loosen the pinch bolts, lock the front brake and try to compress the forks. This should align the forks. Tighten the pinch bolts. Check forks again. If you still have problems someting is wrong like bent fork tube or slider, misaligned triple clamp, maybe a bent axel.You might take off the fork tubes and push on them seperately to make sure they feel ok. Then do the install checking the forks at each step to find the place where binding starts. Good luck.

Feb 20, 2011 | 2002 Honda CR 250 R

1 Answer

Schwinn Scotch bike. Can't get the front wheel on. Have removed 1 nut and 1 washer from each side but the forks will not fit down onto the "screws" almost as if the forks are not set wide enough.


Stand the bike on seat and handlebars.
Have somebody steady the bike.
Bend the forks outward with both hands as you lower wheel into place.

Dec 25, 2010 | Cycling

1 Answer

How to change CB250rsz front fork oil and oil seals?


hi its been quite a while since i have done 1 of these but if the bike has the original forks on it i am sure you can do this without removing the complete fork of the bike, after suporting your bike you can chose to completely remove the fork if you wish, i would first try it without removing the complete fork first, remove front wheel, remove front mudguard and inner stabilizer, keep all bolts together in a safe place, you will need a clean container, to catch the fork oil,(TIP) if you catch all the oil and alow time for it to drip dry you can measure the amount of oil that was in the fork by pouring it from the container into a measuring jug, this will save time if you dont know the specific amount of oil required, to drain the oil you will need a suitable alun key to undo the fork leg/tube securing bolt, you will find this in the lower of the fork leg where the wheel spindle fits, turn the key anti clockwise to undo it, hopefully it will crack loose, if it just spins and doesnt undo you may need air tools to shake it loose, once the bolt is undone secure the fork leg and remove the bolt, the oil will then desperse from the fork, moving the fork lower slowley up and down will help rifle the oil out, make sure the sealing washer is on the bolt or you may have to fish around inside the old oil for it, when you are happy all of the oil has been removed, carefuly pull the fork leg down all the way until it comes of the stanchion, pour any oil into your container, if when you pull on the leg it does not come off this will be because the fork stanchion on your bike has bushes that are fited to it, and not to the lower leg, in this case you will have to remove the whole fork, remove, the dust cover from the fork leg inside you will see a circlip remove this and washer, remove cap from fork top and pour out your oil, and fork spring noteing direction , remove the lower bolt, fix the fork lower in a vice at the very bottom of the leg wher the flat area is, do not grip tubular area,then to remove the seal you will need to push down on the fork stancion to its lowest point, and sharply pull up useing the stancion as a hammer, repeat this untill your fork seal is removed, replace in reverse order, good luck hope this helps. paul

Dec 12, 2010 | Honda CB 250 Nighthawk Motorcycles

3 Answers

I need to know the oil capacity of the front forks on my 1999 Suzuki Marauder VZ800.


FORK OIL
• Place the front fork vertically without spring.
• Compress it fully.
• Pour specified front fork oil up to the top level of the outer
tube.
Capacity (each leg): 490 ml (16.6/17.3 US/lmp oz)
99000-99044-L01: SUZUKI FORK OIL L01
or an equivalent fork oil
• Move the inner rod slowly with the special tool ten times and
more until no more bubbles come out from the oil.
09940-52841: Inner rod holder
NOTE:
Refill front fork oil up to the top of the outer tube so that bubbles
are visible while bleeding air.
• Refill specified front fork oil up to the top level of the outer
tube again. Move the outer tube up and down several strokes
until no more bubbles come out from the oil.
• Keep the front fork vertically and wait 5 – 6 minutes.
NOTE:
* Always keep oil level over the cartridge top end, or air may
enter the cartridge during this procedure.
* Take extreme care so as to pump out air completely.
• Hold the front fork vertically and adjust fork oil level with the
special tool.
NOTE:
When adjusting the fork oil level, compress the outer tube fully
without the fork spring.
Fork oil level: 153 mm (6.02 in)
09943-74111: Front fork oil level gauge

Dec 18, 2009 | 1998 Suzuki VZ 800 Marauder

2 Answers

Change oil fork


There is a bit of directions on how to change the oil. I will give you a link to a site that has pictures with step-by-step directions that will work for any bike fork.

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_fork_oil/

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask..

Nov 25, 2009 | 2004 KTM EXC 200

2 Answers

How do i change fork seals on a Kawasaki gt 550 89' and or chec and add oil


Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?


Sep 11, 2009 | 1992 kawasaki GT 750

1 Answer

How do i dismantle front forks to replace the oil seals


You just needed to.... remove front wheel, support bike on something, undo retaining bolts on forks, tap out fork legs from the top, using a soft mallet. Take out fork seals with a seal pick, (halfords) Replace old seal with new seals, in reverse order) sliding over the fork leg, tapping into place. Then put replace forks etc in reverse order (from dissassembly). Hope this helps

Feb 21, 2009 | 1992 Honda CB 750F2 Seven Fifty

3 Answers

Bicycle Fork Installation


remove front wheel
undo allen screw or bolt securing headstem to fork
remove headstem and handlebars
undo lock nut & ring retaining bearings, at top of fork tube, do not lose bearings which may be loose.
withdraw fork from fork tube, do not lose upper bearing race
remove lower bearing from old fork
install lower bearing on new fork (I prefer replacing bearings)
remove brake caliper from old fork install on new fork
insert fork in fork tube
install upper bearing (I prefer replacing bearings)
install retaining ring and lock nut on fork tube, adust untill there is no wobble, but free movement, too tight the bearings will collapse too loose the rider will fall off
tighten lock nut
install headstem
tighten headstem allen key - bolt
install front wheel

Oct 29, 2008 | Marzocchi 2008 XC 700 ATA Mountain Bike...

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